1990 Chevrolet Lumina APV Logo
Anonymous Posted on Aug 02, 2013

I own a 1990 Chevy Lumina APV 3.1, was leaving for an interview. Suddenly my gas peddle was useless. checked for fuel in tank, made sure spark was there an timing was firing, listened for fuel pump, & replaced fuel filter; Battery good too. Inspected the Carb/ fuel injection, cleaned it up and began to manually feed fuel directly....The Engine Ran as long as I did so, after this I noticed one of my fuel injectors was hardly spitting gas. My next move is to purchase a replacement injector, I am unsure of how to remove & install the injector. Does anyone have any Info?

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Denis Houle

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  • Chevrolet Master 1,414 Answers
  • Posted on Aug 02, 2013
Denis Houle
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If it's a trottle body with two injectors.remove fuel pressure,Remove the air filter, remove connector from injector,remove the center pin that hold the air filter case.than remove the top injector from tbi,than pry the injector out,

Testimonial: "Thank You.when removing the injector do you know if i'd be damaging any seals, that wouldn't be included with the new replacement part?"

  • Denis Houle Aug 03, 2013

    with gentle probably no.When you buy new injector every seal you need are included. beware to change all seals and have old seal in your hands, could be stuck in the bottom

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Anonymous

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SOURCE: cannot get 1987 chevy van 20 to keep running... stalls out

Best do a fuel pressure test. Should have chg. fuel filter from the get go. The only other filter is on the end of the fuel pump in tank. Bad gas and dirty gas will plug up fuel filter, hense burn pump up.

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jim

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SOURCE: Help w 1994 chevrolet truck

disconnect the batt. is your fuel pump running check fuse listen for it

Anonymous

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  • Posted on Aug 18, 2009

SOURCE: 2001 Chevy Malibu, 89,000 miles, 3.1 engine, won't start

CLICK HERE for the injector schematic.
CLICK HERE for the Ignition schematic.

Since the PCM uses info gatheres from the crank and cam sensors to calculate ignition - and there are no OBD codes - in all likelihood, the PCM itself is bad.

The Ignition Module, also transmits to the PCM.

It appears after all your testing - that the PCM is at fault.

It does not error report on itself (unfortunately).

The ignition timing is controlled by the Powertrain Control Module (PCM). No adjustment is necessary (distributorless ignition) or possible.

Please see the following....

The ignition timing is controlled by the Powertrain Control Module (PCM). No adjustment is necessary or possible.
The engines covered by this manual are equipped with distributorless ignitions, ignition timing is controlled by the Powertrain Control Module (PCM), as applicable. No adjustments are possible. If ignition timing is not within specification, there is a fault in the engine control system. Diagnose and repair the problem as necessary.
Ignition timing is the measurement, in degrees of crankshaft rotation, of the point at which the spark plugs fire in each of the cylinders. It is measured in degrees before or after Top Dead Center (TDC) of the compression stroke.
Ideally, the air/fuel mixture in the cylinder will be ignited by the spark plug just as the piston passes TDC of the compression stroke. If this happens, the piston will be at the beginning of the power stroke just as the compressed and ignited air/fuel mixture forces the piston down and turns the crankshaft. Because it takes a fraction of a second for the spark plug to ignite the mixture in the cylinder, the spark plug must fire a little before the piston reaches TDC. Otherwise, the mixture will not be completely ignited as the piston passes TDC and the full power of the explosion will not be used by the engine.
The timing measurement is given in degrees of crankshaft rotation before the piston reaches TDC (BTDC). If the setting for the ignition timing is 10 BTDC, each spark plug must fire 10 degrees before each piston reaches TDC. This only holds true, however, when the engine is at idle speed. The combustion process must be complete by 23° ATDC to maintain proper engine performance, fuel mileage, and low emissions.
As the engine speed increases, the pistons go faster. The spark plugs have to ignite the fuel even sooner if it is to be completely ignited when the piston reaches TDC. Spark timing changes are accomplished electronically by the engine and ignition control computers.
If the ignition is set too far advanced (BTDC), the ignition and expansion of the fuel in the cylinder will occur too soon and tend to force the piston down while it is still traveling up. This causes pre ignition or -knocking and pinging-. If the ignition spark is set too far retarded, or after TDC (ATDC), the piston will have already started on its way down when the fuel is ignited. The piston will be forced down for only a portion of its travel, resulting in poor engine performance and lack of power.
Timing marks or scales can be found on the rim of the crankshaft pulley and the timing cover. The marks on the pulley correspond to the position of the piston in the No. 1 cylinder. A stroboscopic (dynamic) timing light is hooked onto the No. 1 cylinder spark plug wire (2.2L engine only, on the 2.4L engines, special adapters are needed) . Every time the spark plug fires, the timing light flashes. By aiming the light at the timing marks while the engine is running, the exact position of the piston within the cylinder can be easily read (the flash of light makes the mark on the pulley appear to be standing still). Proper timing is indicated when the mark and scale are in specified alignment.


WARNING When checking timing with the engine running, take care not to get the timing light wires tangled in the fan blades and/or drive belts.

The engines covered by this manual are equipped with distributorless ignitions, ignition timing is controlled by the Powertrain Control Module (PCM), as applicable. No adjustments are possible. If ignition timing is not within specification, there is a fault in the engine control system. Diagnose and repair the problem as necessary.




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