SOURCE: 1995 cutlass supreme transmission
It physically will fit and bolt up,but there are many different ratio,and drive and driven sprocket tooth counts,different final drive ratios,all monitored by the computer with electronic speed sensors.If the trans from the 95 has a different ratio than the 93,the computer will set gear ratio error codes,and possibly put the trans in a failsafe mode,stuck in 2nd or 3rd gear.On the transmission case,down by where the passenger side axle would go in,is a thin metallic tag,maybe 2"x 3",and it has bar codes,and also a series of numbers and letters.The numbers and letters,large cap,are the final drive gear ratio code.They should match on the two transmissions in question.
SOURCE: how hard is it to replace a intake gasket on a 1994 olds cutlass supreme.3.1 6 cyclinder
It is not an extremely difficult job. time consuming consuming... I've done a 3.4 intake manifold job, which in my opinion (plenty will disagree) is a little easier than a 3.1 manifold. there are just more steps involved with the 3.1 intake.(I haven't had to change the intake gasket on my 3.1 (yet)) If you haven't already, invest in a haynes or chilton manual, whip out your sockets and your gasket remover, and prepare to do battle...
oh, as far as how to tell before you break down the engine... are you having any drive ability problems? Surging idle, stalling... try this, take propane torch (DONT LIGHT IT) but open the valve and let the spray the propane around your intake manifold with the engine running. If the idle drops or the car stalls, there is your intake leak. That trick also works with intake cleaner too.
you may have to remove your push rods to put your new gasket on. Just loosen the rocker arm nuts/bolts and pivot your rocker arms out of the way. If you do remove your push rods, push them into some holes in a cardboard box so that you can replace them EXACTLY in the same position that you got them from. To remove old traces of gasket, you may have to get some spray on gasket remover, let it sit 5 min. then get at it with your scraper. (be careful, remember our engines are aluminum, you don't want to scrape too hard and scar the mating surface).
After you get all the old gasket off, clean the mating surface with intake cleaner or lacquer thinner. your gasket kit may have come with end seals. if it did not, remember to run a line of RTV sealant on the front and rear ridges of the engine block between the heads (before you install the intake gasket.)
When you re-install your lower manifold, coat your bolts with pipe thread sealant. when you install the lower manifold, tighten the vertical bolts first, then the angle bolts- it will keep the manifold from wiggling around on the gasket.
After you get everything back together and all snug, i would buy some GM top engine cleaner (liquid)(dealer only( part# 1050002) or some sea foam from your local parts retailer. I know this is to clean the carbon and sludge from your intake and your cylinders, but guess where the remainder of the solution ends up? Yep, in your oil. That should clean up any residue you had from the milkshake effect.
To use the GM engine cleaner, just disconnect your favorite vacuum hose leading to the intake (some people just use their brake booster hose) and put it down in the bottle of liquid while the car is running. (don't let the vacuum **** the liquid too fast, you don't want to risk problems. you may have to keep your hand on the throttle to keep it running. when the can is empty, let your car stall or just cut it off.
Let your car sit about 2 hours, to give the cleaner time to really work. Start your car, let it run for about 20 mins (there will be PLENTY of white smoke, your car is burning off the cleaner and the carbon).
Then change your oil. good luck and hope this helps.
Ok, you're going to need to buy, borrow, or rent a torque wrench. For 3.1 engines 1995 and earlier, rocker arm nuts should be torqued to 18 ft-lbs.
The wire brush probably did less damage than I do on a regular basis with a gasket scraper :D so you should be okay. If you've already drained your oil, (which I suspect you have) then I would just use the wal-mart brand while you do the GM engine cleaner thing.
Don't add the cleaner to your oil, just let a vacuum hose, **** it into the intake. Plenty will get in your oil. Getting into your oil and cleaning up the gook is just a fringe benefit. What the cleaner actually does is it cleans up your entire intake path (manifold, injectors, & valves)... I think you'll be happy with the throtle crispness, once you're done with the engine cleaner.
Oh and for your coolant system, just get some Prestone radiator flush, and follow what the bottle says. If your system is really gooped up, Prestone also has a Super flush for a little extra :2cents:
SOURCE: My Cutlass Supreme S need diagram on installing starter.
I have a 3.4L engine and my starter is wedged in between the frame, oil filter, and then covered by A/C unit tubing headed to the A/C compressor.
Before I got started with the starter I personally had to remove the engine brace on the front of the car holding the engine in place to the frame (very easy) and laid it back on the engine. Then I removed the fans on my radiator and bracing sitting atop the radiator to help clear the way. I personally also had to remove some A/C tubing running to the A/C compressor of the car in order to remove the starter which was still running into some hose right next to the oil filter. So the A/C will have to be recharged afterwards.
Remove the little plastic shield covering the flywheel and some of the starter. Remove the 3 bolts holding the starter. Slowly work the starter out of its recessed hole being careful not to pull to hard on the hose right next to the oil filter.
Place the new guy in there and reinstall all components. Only this time you will need to recharge your A/C when you are done.
First remove the plastic shield covering the flywheel.
SOURCE: 1990 Olds cutlass supreme 6cyl 3.1 engine; motor starter works ok
1990 OLDSMOBILE 3.1 6 CYLINDER ENGINE I WOULD LIKE TO KNOW LOCATION ON ENGINE WHARE CRANKSHAFT POSITION SENSOR IS LOCATED
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