New radiator, pressure cap, thermostat, and bleeder. water pump not leaking, nor any other leak i can see. Fan seems to be working fine. But is overheating and burning up fluid. No water in oil, and no oil in water. The over flow tank does not refill the radiator because of the pressure build up from over heating.
Number of possibilities and places to look from past experience:Possibly have a hairline crack in the head of the engine, or head gasket is just blown between the holes supplying water, which is great as this can indicate lower repair costs, but you will need to remove the head from block to inspect.
If engine has overheated, and has been driven without water that is where I would look, as the small amount of water with pressure in system creates an powerful amount of destructive steam.
Also, check hoses to heater system and heater radiator, and also check and see if engine has welsh plugs on the engine block that might be leaking. In apst these has been made from Brass, but most are of lower grade metal now, and might have corroded, check for water under engine at idling .
Best of luck
I agree with Grayson Jones. Either head or engine block problem. DO NOT RUN THE VEHICLE but do get a mechanic to look it over. You may be able to do a coolant flush but you may be up for a new engine. Sorry for the bad news.
If it's the 4.8 it's probably a head problem. The alluiminan the heads are made out of is like a powder that's molded together. Depending on how hot it has run it's probably ruined it. Sorry for the bad news
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SOURCE: Vehicle needs to purge all the air form the radiator. Jeep Grand
Run engine normally while filling radiator. Leave heater on high heat. When engine temp reads normal, shut it off, wait about three minutes...re-start and complete filling.
SOURCE: The rear differential leak on my 2002 Jeep Grand Cherokee
If your talking about the cover then yes it is very easy to accomplish.
SOURCE: I have a 2001 jeep grand cherokee losing antifreeze no leaks.
good point there is a good chance this has a cracked head
SOURCE: JEEP DEALERSHIP PERFORMED HEAD GASKET REPAIRS ON
Check your water pump for signs of seepage. Do this with no pressure in the system and cap off. Sometimes in the beginning stages of failure pressurizing the system will drive the seal against the shaft and actually hide the leak. I have seen very small cracks in cylinder heads, especially between the valves that won't show up on a pressure test 'till they get worse. Check the plugs for any coloring from antifreeze.
You are going in the right direction so far, but need to go over everything sometimes a few times before a small leak is found. Keep an eye out for dried or semi-dried stains, especially around the perimeter of the head /block parting line...sometimes small leaks will only leave a slight stain, often white or antifreeze colored powder residue.
Hate to say it, but sometimes when you can't find it, just put some block sealer in there and see if it corrects the problem.I'm a professional but sometimes just doing that saves a big headache for a small problem.
SOURCE: 2001 jeep grand cherokee. no leaks losing coolant,
Most serious item I see is oil pressure. Put a mechanical gauge on the engine and get an accurate reading. Also make sure that the passage to the sender isn't blocked. If you did the pump yourself, did you find any coolant in the oil? In 99% of all low oil pressure situations, the oil pump has not failed. Rather, either a cam bearing or crank/rod bearing is worn. You do not have to have one spun or completely worn out bearing. Even wear of all bearings that is somewhat excessive can bleed off enough pressure to cause problems (plastigage the engine bearings to determine wear).
As far as coolant loss. A cylinder head gasket can fail between cylinders, into a water passage, into an oil passage or any combination of those and externally as well. The cylinder heads on engines beginning in about '98 are prone to "micro-cracking" which can lead to all kinds of hard to diagnose coolant loss problems. It may help if you have a shop do a dye test and a hydrocarbon test on the cooling system and see what they find.
I have seen several kinds of block sealing systems available. Though I generally do not recommend them, as the longevity of the repair isn't predictable, you could try that as a option of last resort.
There is no quick easy solution to your problem but with a bit of "poking around" you may be able to cure it. Don't bother repairing one problem before finding out what the other one is first though as together, it might be smarter to replace the engine.
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