Abs brake light always on

Sounds like this could be a front or rear wheel sensor. You need to check the trouble code by placing a wire short across the test connector located under the dash near the radio center console. This is a blue, two pin connector plugged into a holder. placing a short wire across the two termnals and turning the key on to the II On Position will start the ABS light flashing. Do nt start the engine, just turn the key switch on.

Count the number of flashes. The first group of flashes followed by the next group of flashes. For example, four (4) flashes followed by the next group of eight (8) flashes points to the left driver side rear wheel speed sensor. check the resistance (continuity) with a meter. It should read about 1240 ohms. A resistance of 0 -100 ohms is a bad sensor. Cost of a sensor is about $126 but it is not easy to install since the old one usually is hard to remove.

Bottom line is that the ABS system probably does not work properly because the light is on. The regular brakes are OK.

Click on this link for ABS codes. I just finished replacing the 2 rear ABS sensors on my 96 Odyssey LX 2.2L with F22B6 engine. Here's my experience... First, I checked the ABS codes given by Hockeyman above and found that I needed to replace both rear sensors. Best price I found was from eBay, passenger side SMP/STANDARD ALS1030 Rear ABS Wheel Sensor, $118.62 thru AutoPartsExpress and driver side SMP/STANDARD ALS1088, $116.14 thru RockAuto. Both new parts measured about 1,300 Ohms. With the van up on ramps, I unbolted the sensor, and then tried to pull it out with a channel wrench. If you can get a good grip, this will snap it off flush to the surface. That's OK since I think all the heat from the brakes causes the plastic to weld to the insert hole. If you can't get it to snap off, use a wood chisel to do so. I then got the van down from the ramps and jacked up the rear and removed the rotary brake caliper and brake rotor to expose the brake shoes. Rotate the wheel hub so you can see the ABS sensor through one of the access holes. My right rear sensor was extremely difficult to remove. I used several screw drivers, a wood chisel and a good d hammer for about 2.25 hrs before I punched through the sensor and then finally it popped out with more banging. On another day, for the left side sensor with the van up on ramps, after snapping off the head of the sensor as I described above, from under the van I used a quarter inch drill to drill two holes through the sensor as close to its outer diameter as I could. I put the van up on the jack and removed the brake caliper and rotor. This time instead of screw drivers to deliver the force of the hammer blows to the sensor, I used a 3/8 inch dia., 12 inch long threaded rod I purchased at Home Depot. I placed the rod on the tip of the sensor and it popped out only after about 4-5 strikes with a 2.5 lb hammer. I think the drilled holes allowed the circumference to contract a bit when struck using the rod and made the removal MUCH easier than before. I then tried to remove old material from the insertion hole with a Dremel tool but this did not allow easy insertion of the new sensors which appeared to be designed for an interference fit. I put the sensors in a vice and filed down the diameter until I got an easy fit. The ABS warning light now stays off. Replacement of the driver side sensor that was easy to remove took a total of about 3 hrs including clean-up.