Settings of valve timing volvo s40 1999 b4204

There are two types or timing, camshaft and ignition.. Let's assume Camshaft and Valve timing

Not to worry friend, when my car go sick i avoided going to mechanic looking for DIY_Repair when I found this website https://big-manuals.com/ and this book helped me repair it within an hour, all by myself!!!
From wiring diagrams, schematic illustrations, spark plugs info, parts info, chassis number, valve time settings, step wise instructions, torque specs, error/fault codes, engine info, to every single minute parts, you get everything in there you can't imagine how detailed it is

Not to worry friend, when my car go sick i avoided going to mechanic looking for DIY_Repair when I found this website https://big-manuals.com/ and this book helped me repair it within an hour, all by myself!!!
From wiring diagrams, schema tic illustrations, spark plugs info, parts info, chassis number, valve time settings, step wise instructions, torque specs, error/fault codes, engine info, to every single minute parts, you get everything in there you can't imagine how detailed it is

If the belt broke while the motor was running, the motor is likely badly damaged since, I believe, the five cylinder Volvo engines are "interference engines". The crankshaft and pistons keep moving while the car is in gear and still moving, but the valves stop dead the instant the timing belt breaks. The pistons would have hit some of the valves, cracking or badly damaging the cylinder head and some pistons. If the motor is not damaged internally, though, just line up the timing marks on the cam shaft sprockets and the crankshaft sprocket and put on a new belt. Go online for a diagram of how to align the timing marks.

Ignition timing is controlled by the engine management computer and is not adjustable. Valve timing is set at a fixed position when the timing belt is replaced and not adjustable.

Volvo recommends for Volvo S80, changing the timing belt every 105,000 miles. Needless to say, they are pretty religious about this now.
The B20, B21, B23, and B230 engines are non-interference engines, meaning that the camshaft can be rotated independently of the crankshaft and no damage will result to the engine. That is, if the timing belt breaks, the valves will not hit the pistons; the engine will simply stop.
On the other hand, the B234 16-valve engines and any of the other Volvo multi valve engines are interference engines. Loss of the timing belt in these engines will result in severe or fatal engine damage.
Your car might be fitted with:
2.8L (VIN 90, 6th & 7th digit, B6284T eng, turbo)
2.9L (VIN 94, 6th & 7th digit, B6294S eng)
To get more information you can download the Owners manual at:
http://new.volvocars.com/ownersdocs/2001/2001_s80/01s80_08b.htm

You don't! This is all computer controlled and dependant on a variety of sensors. Let me know if you need anything else.

Volvo Radiator, Thermostat and Sensors Your cooling system's temperature controls include all coolant temperature sensors, Volvo thermostat, Volvo radiator or expansion tank cap, cooling fan(s) and fan clutch (if equipped). These cooling system parts function primarily independent of the engine but control the engine either through cooling or by sending control signals to your Volvo's electronic systems.
The Volvo thermostat is a spring-loaded valve that opens and closes based on the temperature of the coolant flowing through it. A high temperature reading followed by a drop to normal temperature (or a continuously low temperature) is a common first sign of a sticking Volvo thermostat. However, many other conditions may cause these symptoms, so you need to know how to eliminate each possibility.
The Volvo radiator or expansion tank cap is also a spring-loaded valve reacting to system pressure. It serves to maintain proper system coolant level at predetermined pressures. It must always be replaced with an exact replacement cap with the same pressure setting. Never use other caps except for short-term emergencies!
A belt-driven fan blade for pulling air through the Volvo radiator is usually on the Volvo water pump pulley and should have a fan clutch to control it. The fan clutch allows the fan to turn with the belt at low engine speed and "free-wheel" at higher speeds. A bad fan clutch either doesn't allow the fan to spin at low speed (overheating in traffic) or doesn't allow it to free-wheel at high speed (potential overheating on highway or reduced gas mileage).
An electric fan can be either by itself (usually front-wheel drive) or auxiliary (used with a mechanical fan). Both types are controlled via a temperature sensor - in the Volvo radiator or upper Volvo radiator hose or on the Volvo thermostat or Volvo water pump housing. This sensor is usually an on/off type switch with a fixed temperature setting. (Some vehicles may have 2-3 settings for multi-speed fans.) This sensor is commonly called an "auxilliary fan switch".
Other common temperature sensors are: 1) gauge sender (variable output); 2) warning light sender (on/off type); 3) lambda and/or fuel injection sensor(s) (variable to control fuel injection settings); 4) thermo-time switch (cold start valve control). Your Volvo may have other sensors as well.
Temperature control is critical to both performance and emission control. Unfortunately, this system is the most difficult to troubleshoot without proper equipment and diagrams. It's even more difficult with computers that adjust timing, idle speed, vacuum and fuel delivery automatically to make up for potentially faulty temperature sensor signals.
Maintenance of your cooling system sensors is virtually impossible since there's nothing really to "maintain". Keeping them clean both internally (coolant replacement) and externally (engine cleaning) is the best way to ensure trouble-free driving. Checking and replacing all parts at the factory-recommended time or mileage limits helps as well

No, you are fine. it wont damage the valves.

there are special tools for this in the back of the head to lock them in, can you send me more info