20 Most Recent 1997 Land Rover Range Rover - Page 9 Questions & Answers

Before spending big money, get a multi-meter (under $14 and no vehicle should be without one) and test the voltage across the battery terminals. It should be 12.4 or higher. If it isn't, get a new battery. If the voltage is OK, remove and abrade the battery terminals then make sure they are TIGHT when reconnecting them. You should now have lights and hopefully ignition also.

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have the service done and use a scanner to reset the light.

Who told you that? Obviously that person has no idea what he is talking about. Makes no sense at all. Sounds like you just need a new battery...

A lot can be told by the length of time you have been experiencing this problem. I'll assume it's been a couple weeks and guess that the first place to start troubleshooting is the fuel tank. More specifically the in tank fuel pump. Could be a classic "I'm about to drop dead so give me some attention" warning signs that all Rover owners come to know and love. A pricey repair bill if hired out, dirt cheap if you do it yourself. Let me know if you would like help with the dirt cheap route. Good luck!

You should be able to Goggle this question to get your answer. As a matter of fact, you will probably get several answers.

Check the following: FIRST, see if you're getting normal fuel pressure at the test point on the fuel rail when the ignition key is on. If you are getting fuel pressure when the vehicle is not starting, you have an ignition problem, probably the ECU. If you are not getting normal fuel pressure at the test point, check the following.

1. Inertia switch (not sure where it is on your vehicle but it's often in the driver-side kick panel in British vehicles. It may be in the cargo compartment behind the wheel well);
2. Fuel pump relay (most likely culprit). It may be overheating and failing;
3. Is the fuel pump making more noise than it used to? Change the fuel pickup strainer ("fuel sock") in the gas tank. It may be making the fuel pump overheat and shut down.
4. Fuel pump. Again, this may be an overheating failure, especially if your fuel pickup strainer is clogged.
5. IMPORTANT: As a matter of maintenance, since the vehicle is 14 years old, go ahead and replace the fuel filter and the fuel pressure regulator(s). This will solve many problems in the future.

Should be at the end of the top hose on the engine!

Probably a loose connection in the tail lights that is causing the buzzing sound. Check your wiring connections.

0 if you do don't drive it, what a question, it should do any were from 16 to 22 miles per gallon.

Google, don't be lazy!

Sometimes the float that tells the sensor how much fluid is in the tank sinks. When it sinks it is giving the impression that the tank is empty giving you that low coolant warning. You will have to replace the tank.

its not changing down because it doesnt need to ,what year and what model is this vehicle ,petrol or diesel

Here you have all step by step instructions & photos for timing chain replacement.

http://www.bimmerboard.com/forums/posts/876903

Good Luck!

When the fourth digit of the code is correctly entered the radio unlocks automatically. There is no "enter" step. If the code remains on the screen then you are entering the wrong code.

Assuming you have already checked the fuse, you next culprit on the list is liquid spill to this cluster. Happens all the time and fortunately easy fix. You can access the underside of this pannel by removeing the jockey box. (Five screws in the bottom of the center console box). The spills and other gunk accumulate over time and short or immobilise the switch(es). You may get some results with a can of compressed air without having to remove the box.

what model, if it of an old model check the points and distributer this is the only way water will switch it off.