1993 Saab 900 - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

stage 1=30lbs/ft stage 2=44lbs/ft stagen 3 =angle tighten a further 90degrees

THERE WERE NOT MANY DETAILS POSTED SO HERE GOES:It could be top column bush which can be accessed by taking off the steering wheel, check the internet on how to find it or it could be your steering wheel height adjustment pivo,t if neither of those then there might just be too much movement with the steering column, try the top column bush first, its not too hard a [email protected]

Please elaborate. Your question is unclear.

If the screen is part of the car equipment then a dealer will be able to get the part for you Go on line to the maker of the car and check out customer service for where you can get parts.

I am not sure what all you have tried. I would continue to bleed the brakes starting at the left front and working around the car clockwise. when you change the slave it will take many many many times of doing this to bleed all the air out.

this might help... go to this webpage... there is a picture of the switch.... http://www.autopartswarehouse.com/details/QQSaabQQ900QQScan-TechQQHeadlight_SwitchQQ19821998QQW0133-1610845.html


did you happen to buy that in canberra ?

Under the seat there is supposed to be a cable that runs from one side to the other. It releases the other side to move. It is come off or broken.

replace the battery cables they are corroded inside the plastic where you can not see.

Internal short in the coil. Replace it.

The solenoid of the starter might overheat because of the turbo it and make the contacts inside it bad - try to jump them and see what happens. Also check the contacts to the ECM and the engine temperature sensor.

Disconnecting the battery for a couple of minutes should clear the check engine light if the problem that tripped it was corrected.You may need to reset your alarm after disconnection your battery and you definitely will need your radio code if it's the original Saab radio.

You check the fuel pump cut-off relay?

petrol or diesel

IT COULD BE A SIMPLE THING AS A FUSE OR A RELAY, OR IT COULD BE THE FREON IS TOO LOW FOR THE AC CLUTCH TO KICK IN

ask here

ukbookshelf.co.uk

Give Saab a call with the VIN # and they will give you the codes

The fuse box is located on top of the drivers side fender under the hood. A smokey looking plastic box. There are two thumbscrews that hold it closed. Flip the lid over and it will tell you what fuses go where.

Take a look at the sparkmodule asm, this is a common problem with these saabs, the next thing would be the fuel preasure,make sure the pump is operating and putting out enough preasure,and last look at all fuses, these barrel type fuse corriod at the end and dont make the connection,

i think they didnt want to do it all dealerships have the right stuff to fix it.try someone else.

You don't say whether the fan starts and shuts off with the bumps, or the heat goes cold but the fan stays on. If it's the fan shutting off and coming back, you most likely have an intermittent connection to the blower motor somewhere at the fuse box, the fan speed control switch or the fan motor, or a loose ground connection at the fan motor. The fan motor is visible under the right side speaker grille on the dash. Make sure you re-connect the short black corrugated hose to the grill vent or you won't have defrosting on that side!

The air distribution rotary switch controls where the air goes. The fan speed switch controls exactly that: fan speed. the temp rotary switch controls the coolant temp into the heater core. You need to clarify what you mean by "Also, the dash controls for the vents won't allow me to turn up the power"

You might also have one or more of the following issues:

1. is you vacuum tank properly connected and are there no leaks in the vacuum piping? The tank is in the driver side rear wheel well below the trunk deck on a convertible, and in the passenger side front fender area on the other cars. It's a white bottle with one or two hoses connected to it. If not properly on, your vacuum operated heater flaps won't move. Does the air distribution knob make sucking or hissing noises when you set it to different positions? If not, check the tank connections, look for vacuum line leaks, then suspect the vacuum valve behind the distribution knob.
2. if the air distribution rotary switch makes noises when you change its setting, but nothing happens, then suspect the vacuum solenoids that open and close the heater flaps - could be a loose vacuum line or a defective vacuum solenoid
   
3. the shaft connecting the temp control knob to the heater valve behind it may not be properly in place. This can be inspected, and adjusted if necessary, from the left side speaker/vent cutout on top of the dash. Make sure you re-connect the black flex hose to the air vent tube, or you'll get no defrosting afterwards!
4. remember, the centre vents always blow cold air; a brilliant idea from Saab so the driver (and passenger) can get fresh air in the face and stay awake while the rest of the driver, passenger and car is toasty!