Saab Cars & Trucks - Recent Questions, Troubleshooting & Support


It could be the anti-drain back valve (check valve) is stuck or it could be the Walbro fuel pump which is known to be good up to the 80,000 to 120,000 mile range. The banging on the tank trick working usually means fuel pump.
The typical symptom of a fuel pump check valve failure is extended cranking time during startup. What generally occurs here is that the check valve in the fuel line sticks open causing lack of fuel pressure. This usually occurs after the car has been sitting for a while or overnight. The fuel pressure leaks down causing the fuel pump to have to work very hard to push the fuel from the tank to the fuel rail. The symptom is similar to vapor lock but not quite. The solution to this is to replace the fuel pump check valve which can be difficult in itself. Be very cautious when attempting this repair because of the dealing with the fuel system and this always presents a potential FIRE HAZARD!!!!!!!
NOTE: When doing this job, be careful. If you break the link with no check valve in the fitting you will have to replace the entire fuel line because Saab does not offer the fitting by itself. Being a "Bull in a china shop" would not be a good idea here. If you break the valve you can replace the valve by itself only if you purchase the complete line and remove the valve from the new line and install it in the old line. They valves become brittle over time and can easily break when removing the fuel pump.
Fuel pump failures often cause the engine to buck when going up hills or just quit completely. You can test the fuel pressure using a fuel pressure gauge. The pressure should about 40 PSI (approximately). The location of the pump depends on which car you have. On the later model 900, 93, 95, and 97X the fuel pump is located in the fuel tank and the tank must be removed to replace it.

2002 Saab 9-5 | Answered on Oct 19, 2020


What engine ? could have come with two different one's
Starter Replacement (4.2L Engine)
Starter Replacement (5.3L Engine)

Saab Cars &... | Answered on Jul 08, 2020

Tip

9 3 Convertible Driver door lock siezed, key wont turn



Driver door lock had been siezed for a year or so through lack of use after I had repaired the central locking. The moral of course, is that I should have used the key manually every now and then to keep the lock cylinder freed up.
I had an issue a while back trying to get into the car when the car battery died, so I decided to make sure that I didn't get caught out like that again.
I tried penetrating oil etc, but the lock was stuck fast and I didnt want to chance breaking my key.
The trunk lock on my other Saab (9-5) was also siezed, so as the lock on it is very easy to access, I had a go at trying to free it off.
Over 2 days, I left it soaking in diesel, drowned it in penetrating oil but it still wouldn't free off.
Taking a close look at the cylinder, I saw there's a small machined slot in the end of it (see picture). The slot is not connected to any linkage.
Rather than trying to force it using my key, I gave it a helping hand by using a screwdriver in the slot and working it gently but firmly back and forth. It worked a treat. A bit more penetrating oil and exercise and soon the lock worked like new.
Used brake cleaner to flush out the penetrating oil and blew it out with an air line. (A can of compressed air would do just as well).
Puffed in some proprietary graphite lock lube and exercised the lock to make sure the innards were properly lubed - Like wise, the outer cylinder, as that's where the problem originated. Refitted it to the 9-5 and turned my attention to the driver door lock on my 9-3.

Refer to the picture below before you start

Tools/ materials required: Nitrile gloves, Torx driver set, Small and large flat bladed screwdriver, trim removal tool, craft knife, penetrating oil, brake cleaner, can of compressed air or garage compressor, graphite powder lock lubricant, ruler, pencil, 2.5 mm and 9 mm drill, thin panel wire, masking tape and some plastic sheeting, touch-up paint, Fir tree type panel fixing clip suitable for 9 mm hole, small amount of sealer (Tiger seal or silicone), small torch, patience, beer and/or whisky.

First thing is that accessing the 9-3's door lock is a whole different ball game, whether it's to remove the cylinder or getting a screwdriver into the slot.
Very awkward tight space to work in, window glass / mechanism etc gets in the way of everything. Not impossible to do , but a right pig, especially with arthritis getting worse as I get older. So here's how I solved my problem....

- Mask off the area on the outer door directly below the lock to protect the paintwork when you start spraying penetrating oil
- Apply penetrating oil to the cylinder innards via key slot and especially to the gap that surrounds the lock barrel. Small amounts and often are better than drowning it. Leave it to do its thing and reapply as required. The longer it gets, the better it works. Clean any excess as you go. Wear good quality nitrile gloves (they also help avoid scratching when you start poking around inside the door panel)
- With the window closed (Up), fully open the door
- Prise off the outer plastic cover on the interior pull handle and remove 2 x Torx Screws
- Remove 3 x Torx screws along bottom edge of panel
- Prise off plastic cover in the centre of the metal door handle and remove 1 x Torx screw, then CAREFULLY remove the handle by pulling forwards and outwards - there's a small hook that attaches to a metal pull rod which runs through a couple of guide clips towards the door mounted lock mechanism. (Important to treat these clips gently as, if broken, the rod slips out of its guide and its effective length changes. As the interior metal handle has limited physical movement, this results in failure to physically operate the latching mechanism)
- Remove 2 x trim clips from the plastic trim on which the electric mirror switches are mounted (A dental pick is ideal to pop the centre pins). This part is optional if you have removed this trim before and you are confident and careful.
- Removing the panel from the door: Starting from the bottom, pull the panel outwards until you feel resistance. There are 2 trim clips on either vertical side, which are best popped using a trim tool or a wide bladed screwdiver padded at the end.
- With the fixings now removed, the panel can be taken off by pulling outwards and upwards over the door tab. Kinda rotational movement if you get what I mean.
- Carefully peel off the inner skin. Gentle heat with a hairdryer helps soften the adhesive, and a sharp craft knife comes in handy too.
- Use a small torch to see what's going on inside the panel. There are 2 short pull rods connecting the door latch mechanism to 1) The actual door handle and 2) The lock cylinder
- Identify the short pull rod connecting the lock cylinder. It's the one nearest the front of the car and it's the also the more accessible of the two.
- Disconnect this rod from the door latch mechanism. It's held in place by a small plastic rivet that is easily broken. The trick is to first rotate the rivet by 1/4 turn so that the rod disengages from the rivet and then will simply pull out from the rivet.
- As per the picture, you will see a small machined slot in the end of the lock cylinder. That's where you can insert a screwdriver to provide more leverage instead of forcing / snapping your key when trying to free off the siezed-up cylinder - IF you can get to it (which is where my arthritis kinda got in the way)

My solution: Drill an access hole directly in front of the slot. Detail as per the attached composite picture.
With the screwdriver in the slot, gently tap the end of the screwdriver using a small hammer to help initially break the built-up corrosion.
Turn the driver back and forth, little bit at a time. Apply more penetrating oil to the outer barrel as required when freeing the lock.

Cleanup now required....I used brake cleaner / compressed air as per above and then applied graphite lube.
- Reattached the pull rod, turned the rivet back in place to lock it
- Checked that the long horizontal pull rod attaching the inner door handle to the latch mechanism was correctly running through its guide clips
- Reattached the inner membrane and refitted the panel. The original adhesive was still good to re-use
Refitting the inner door handle correctly can be a bit tricky. I used an open-ended loop of thin panel wire threaded through the end of the pull rod to firstly pull the rod towards the front of the car (frontwards rather than outwards to avoid disengaging the pull rod from its guide clips). Slipped the handle back in the recess, making sure that the "tongue" of the handle was engaged in the loop at the end of the pull rod, and refitted its Torx screw.
I treated and plugged the newly drilled hole using a fir-tree panel clip as per the attached picture.
Job done....and it all happened because I had failed to use my key every now and then.

Normally, I'd now *** off to the village pub and smugly quaff a beer or three and a few drams in celebration, but with all this COVID lockdown thing putting the kybosh on that, I parked my **** on a garden chair and sat amazed at the fact that the soft top is actually down, courtesy of the uncharacteristically fine Scottish weather. With a bottle of malt at hand, of course...

PS: as regards COVID, I haven't yet come up with a solution to the problem of how to down a few drams while wearing a mask. So needless to say, I got pleasantly hammered in self-isolation.

PPS: I hope that this "short" guide will be of some use to someone, and that more importantly, everyone will take their hats off and raise their glasses in respect to the dedicated sacrifice that our health service workers are making in combating this vicious and indiscriminate pandemic. Slainte !!
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on May 03, 2020 | Saab 9 3 Cars & Trucks


most like ly the clutch actuator or electronic setting from the TCM
have a fault code reading done to determine the fault

Saab Cars &... | Answered on Mar 03, 2020


the ecm has a different ignition code for every vehicle
get your keys reprogrammed to the new ecm and the problem is gone

Saab Cars &... | Answered on Mar 03, 2020


Slide under the bumper and look on the back side of it. You will find the bolts that attach it to the body.

1999 Saab 9-5 | Answered on Mar 03, 2020


Is it a manual transmission? I know some of the older
Saabs need the transmission in reverse to get the key out. Try wiggling the shifter and see if it helps with turning the key.

2007 Saab 9-3 | Answered on Mar 03, 2020


Problem is probably the key recognition module below the ignition switch. You will need the service manual to fix this.

Saab Cars &... | Answered on Mar 03, 2020


Looks like compatibility issues... guess u'll need to diagnose more.. have u referred to a help book? If u don't have it get one from google or find one from big-manuals com !!

Saab Cars &... | Answered on Dec 11, 2019


Did you test the low beam electrical circuit using a volt meter ? Look at a wiring diagram to see what all is involved in turning the lights on ? Do you know how to test electrical circuits ?
Also reading service repair manual about the head lamps opp. would be a good thing to do .
Headlamps
The major common components of this system are the body control module (BCM), ambient light sensor, multifunction switch, park brake switch, and the headlamps.
The headlamps may be turned on in 2 different ways. First, when the driver places the headlamp switch in the HEADLAMP position, normal operation occurs. Second, with the headlamp switch is placed in the AUTO position, automatic lamp control (ALC) occurs. During ALC control, the headlamps will be in daytime running lamp (DRL) operation in daylight conditions, or low beam operation in low light conditions.
The low beam relay and high beam relay receive battery positive voltage directly from the battery through the HDM and COILS fuses in the underhood fuse block. The BCM supplies a ground signal to the low beam relay coil for automatic headlamp control and normal headlamp operation. The BCM also supplies ground to the high beam relay coil for high beam headlamp operation. When the driver places the headlamp switch in the HEADLAMP position and the dimmer switch is in the low beam position, the low beam relay energizes sending current flow through the left and right low beam headlamp fuses to both low beam headlamps. The dimmer switch sends a ground signal to the BCM in the high beam position and a momentary ground signal in the flash-to-Pass (FTP) position from G102 to deactivate the low beam headlights and activate the high beam headlights. With the headlights in the low beam position, the high beams may be momentarily turned on or flashed by activating the FTP portion of the switch.

Low Beams - Standard
The standard low beam headlamps receive voltage from the headlamp driver module located in the underhood fuse block. The body control module (BCM) controls the headlamp driver module with the headlamp low beam relay control circuit. Low beam control is determined by a signal on the headlamp dimmer switch signal circuit from the multifunction switch. When the headlamps are requested ON and the headlamp dimmer switch signal circuit is open, the BCM sends a pulse width modulated (PWM) ground signal though the headlamp low beam relay control circuit to the headlamp driver module which illuminates the low beam headlamps at a 100 percent intensity level. The right and left low beam circuits are independent and are fused separately in the underhood fuse block. The LOW HDLP-RT 10A fuse supplies voltage to the right low beam headlamp and the LOW HDLP-LT 10A fuse supplies voltage to the left low beam headlamp. The right and left headlamps are grounded at G103 and G107 respectively.

Your best bet mite be to have a qualified technician check it

Saab Cars &... | Answered on Dec 09, 2019


I changed my steering column universal joint and the Anit skid light came on. Reason being the sensor for the steering wheel needed re calibrating on the Tech 2. The computer can sense if the steering wheel is not straight. Two Hall sensors are inside the column module pick up movement from a gear and this is relayed to the Hall sensor. My car has a later steering column universal join so I had to rotate on the spines to get the steering wheel near straight then get it re calibrated. all ok now .

2001 Saab 9-3 | Answered on Nov 13, 2019


You can try out some guide from here reliable-store. com

they also provide live chat feature for instant help and it's very useful

Saab Cars &... | Answered on Oct 02, 2019


The stability control system uses the abs wheel speed sensors to detect when a wheel is losing traction and would presumably apply the brake on that wheel to maintain traction.

The system is the Vauxhall (GM's British operation) version of a traction control system further refined by Saab's engineers.

Stability control failure means the system will no longer be available to assist the driver maintain traction.

2001 Saab 9-3 | Answered on Sep 28, 2019

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