20 Most Recent 1995 Mercury Villager - Page 7 Questions & Answers

abs selonoid, yeah easy and its def on e bay

Here is the diagram click here

Hi Isael,Here is where to start. First of all, you need to know that your Villager is built by Nissan. It is actually a Nissan Quest with a "Mercury" emblem stuck to the front grill. The Nissan V-6 engines are notorious for bad injectors and cracked Knock Sensors.The codes you have are: 34 - "Knock Sensor Circuit Malfunction" and 45 - "Injector Leak" The service manual is pretty vague about this. It pretty much says to check the injectors for leakage and if the injectors are OK, replace the PCM. I can tell you from personal experince with these engines that PCM failure is VERY RARE and that your problem is most likely leaking injectors. The problem is figuring out which one(s) because this year is not OBD compatible and will not provide you with cylinder misfire information to identify which cylinder has the problem.The knock sensor is most likely cracked and malfunctioning due to the cracks. The intake manifold must be removed to get to the knock sensor. You will need an intake manifold gasket set and a set of injector O-rings (if not included in the manifold set) to correct this problem. However, the knock sensor is NOT the cause of your hesitation issue. It WILL cause ignition timing issues at higher speed though, that can damage your engine.With all that said, a leaking injector issue can be verified y performing fuel pressure tests. I have put together some information including the wiring diagrams for your engine control system and infomation for fuel pressure testing into a single PDF file that you can download. Sorry, I had to cut the wiring diagrams in pieces to get them to fit, but I "overlapped" the images a little so you can tell where one starts and the other begins. Click this link to downdload: http://www.filesonic.com/file/4025218084/1995_Villager_info.pdfPLEASE NOTE that this is a FREE download. You DO NOT have to purchase a FileSonic membership to get it to download to your computer. If you have a filesonic membership great! If you do not, scroll to the lower right of the page and click the link that says "Slower Download". You will then see a timer running above where you clicked near the center of the page. After the timer has timed out, it will display a captcha code that you must enter to continue with the download. The file will only be available at this address for about 3 days, so be sure and save a copy to your computer for future reference.Please let me know if I can be of further assistance.Thank you for your patronage,Dave (dttech)

This is probably the Multi-function switch that is faulty ........

firstly you will need a proffesional to drain the gass off the cooling system and it might be cheaper to pay them a few dollaors extra and they will install it for you-leak free and regassed.

ALWAYS START WITH CHECKING FLUID LEVELS AND CONDITIONS.THIS ENGINE SHOULD BE A NISSAN BUILT V6 OVERHEAD CAM DRIVEN BY A TIMING BELT.ENGINE BEARING FAILURE NOISES USUALLY INCREASE WITH ENGINE RPM.IF STARTED IS SUSPECT THEN FIND SOME MEANS OF ROTATING ENGINE AT FRONT CRANK PULLEY,GRABBING LOWER PULLEY BY HAND AND TURNING OR SOCKET ON CRANK PULLEY CENTER RETAINING BOLT.IF ENGINE CAN BE TURNED IN THIS MANNER THEN THERE IS MOST LIKELY AN INTERNAL ENGINE FAILURE.IF IT DOES TURN OVER THEN LOOK CLOSELY AT STARTER OPERATION.

just lock & unlock once to disarm. go to yahoo group for villager quest owners for more help

keep adding fluid to full mark when trans is warm
villager quest yahoo group for more help

This sounds to me like it may be a hose for some type of vacuum modulator that may be located within the transmission case. Look around the transmission on the underside of the car for any signs of any vacuum lines that may not be attached. It may also attach somewhere along the top of the transmission. Hope this helps.

That would be because you need a new tourque converter. This is a knowen issue within your vehilce year and make. I am sorry to bring such bad news.

The brake bleed may not have been successful. Always bleed the right rear brake first then the left. Next the front right and then the left. If you are using someone to work the brake pedal make sure they hold it down until you have closed the bleed nipple. Make sure you use a little hose on the nipple and into a jar with fluid in it to watch for the bubbles to stop. Make sure the master cylinder always has enough fluid in it.
There is a brake bleeding kit that can be bought, this makes the job a lot easier.

You did'nt mention if you got the system refilled with Refrigerant after the Compressor was replaced or not. If not, that could be the problem.

there is no adjustmetn except hood latch, door, hatch,

groups.yahoo.com/villagerquest

Hi,need more info, what is the car doing???

check for clean connection at vehicle speed sesnor on top rear of trans. 2 pin connector.
does speedo and odometer work?

yahoo group for villager quest owners

first,check to see if there is any fluid in the brake resoviori-it is located directly in front of the driver, under the hood by the firewall (up top)-if it is empty or very low, fill it. Look for leaks, especially around the insides of the wheels. You probably have a damaged line in either the calipers, wheel cylinders or a blown brake line.

Hello,

I had the same problem on my own personal car a few weeks ago. Even though I am a expert trouble shooter on fixya, I still have to pass the stupid emissions test like everyone else. SO, it is fresh in my mind what I had to do, and maybe this will help you.

Your problem based on emission test was at idel, your ppm (parts per million) was to high, or any other words running to rich. Hydro carbons basically. Now, there is a couple things you can try and do, but most likely it need to go to a shop, and they can put it on there computer and test exactly what needs to be replaced to pass emissions, so you don't play the part and replace guess game.

In my case, what I did, and might be your problem and normally is, The 02 sensor is not working or out, that is the one by your Cadillac converter. That would be my first thing I would look at on yours.

Here is another tip on how to get thru emissions possibly. Make sure when you put gas in your car, have no more than quarter tank, and put the lowest octane you can at the fuel island (higher octane demands more carbons, and hydro carbons burn hotter and if your having too many ppm, this will worsen. Ok, next step, is get a can at place like auto zone one of those cans of injector cleaner and it hooks up directly into injectors and cleans them, so there is no slight obstruction to burn cleaner and not load up. If carbonated, then you would do same thing, except would clean carburetor with carb cleaner. Another thing, people don't know or realize, is before you go into emission test facility, you want to go out on a road, freeway and run the **** out of it for a short distance to warm up car good, and blow out the build up of carbon through your system. And finally make sure you have a good clean fuel filter and air filter to allow the proper air flow.

Bottom line, is what your test is saying, is that your car is running to rich, and could be as simple as replacing the 02 sensor, but the other things I listed is a way to maybe get around that and be able to pass, so these rip off emission places can get there money. I hope this helps, Mike

your fuel injector is not working correctly, or you have poor compression on that cylinder.

Try tapping the fuel injector while the engine is running. it may dislodge a clog if present. This will not help, however, if the coil inside the injector is broken.