20 Most Recent 1993 Mercury Topaz - Page 6 Questions & Answers

If you have 4 wheel disc brakes the rear rotors may have a drum inside which houses the emergency brakes. Those type need to have the Star wheels loosened to clear the E-brakes.

Go to Autozone or Oreillys and ask to see new parts. You can look at the lips of the new parts and see the contact areas. While you are there ask if they have pullers for loan. Get a rust penetrating solvent to spray on the center ring of the Rotor and the lug holes/studs.

I live in the Rustbelt, here is what I had to do. Look behind the Rotor. Rust builds up where the rear axles are covered by the Rotor. A Dremmel tool with a grinding tip can be inserted behind the rotor and the seam ground down. Rotate the wheel inch by inch until you clean it full circle. Then use penetrating oil. Or use a chiesel behind the Rotor and do the same thing.

Make a tool by using nuts, bolts and big washers with closed end wrenches. There is an area between the caliper mounting holes and rotor that can be exploited. A wedge tool can be fit in this space so when you turn the nut on the bolt, the nut will drive a closed end wrench or socket against the rotor. Just stick the bolt into the socket and the head of the bolt against the caliper mount. Run the nut and washer into the socket and let the socket press into the Rotor. Hit the Rotor with something heavy.

You may damage the Rotor, at this point you just want the Rotor off. Loosen the tool, rotate the Rotor, and repeat. Once you get the rust to crack loose you are in good shape. New Rotors cost maybe $10 more a hub than machining an old rotor anyway.

idle control sensor possible

FUSE, BRAKE LIGHT SWITCH , BROKEN WIRE ( LOOK WHERE WIRES CONNECT TO BRAKE LIGHT SWITCH ) HAVE SEEN THIS MANY TIMES

HOPE THIS HELPS

pull the fan relay and switch it with another just like it if it work right replace the relay.

Hello Friend:

#1) Raise Car in The Rear Support it Good on Jack Stands.

#2) Remove your Wheel or Wheels if Doing Both Sides.

#3) Now Right in The Center of Your HUB you'll see a Dome Cap Remove the Cap,Now Remove the Cotter Pin, then the Spindle Nut and Washer.

#4) Now you'll pull your Hub Assembly Off ,The Outside Bearing will more or Less Fall off the Hub.But you'll need to Remove the Outer Bearing Race Its the Metal Angled Race.

#5) Before you remove the Outer Race take a Seal Remover and Remove The Grease Seal on the Inside of Hub.

#6) Now the Inner Bearing Will Come Out.You NOW Can Remove Innner and Outer Races.Use a Puch and Hammer Lightly Tap it by Working your Punch Side to Side.

#7) Now You've Remove BOTH inner and Outer Bearing Assemblies.

#8) Before you Start to Install New Races ,Get some Brake Clean and Clean The Inner Hub and the Spindle Good.

#9) Use a Bearing Race Installer Tool to Tap your New Bearing Races in.NOTE: you Don't want to Scar the Beveled Part of the Race Cause thars Where your Bearings Rotate.

#9) Races are in : Now take a Wheel Bearing Packer if you have 1 Availible: If not Pack As Much Heavy Duty Hi Temp Bearing Grease Into the Bearings. And Put some on the Spindle Were your Bearing Run on.

#10) Now Using a Seal Installer Tap your Inner Grease Seal into the Inner Hub Housing.

#11) OK Now your Ready to Put Your Hub Back on:Note: Put a Little Grease in The Domed Cap after you've Got the Hub On.

#12) DON"TS Get Grease on your Brakes or anywhere in The Brake Pad Assembly. #2) Don't Use the OLD Cotter Pin Get a New One. :#3) When Adjusting your Spindle Nut Don't Under Tighten or Over Tighten==Just Snug it down where theres no Play when you Take your Hands 1-Top=1 Bottom and Make Sure theres No Play.

Rotate The Hub During And When Tightening your Spindle Nut.

Put Hub Grease Cap on and Whell or Wheels and you Should be Good to Go.

Thanks for Using Fixya Please let me Know the Quality of my Advice/Solution by Voting Thank You From: d_hubbs

first of all this web sight is for serious posts,please settle it with him and dont post anything unless its a valid question,thank you

The harmonic balancer is broken. most auto parts stores keep them in stock as it happens alot. They call it the damper or the lower pulley , crank pulley, if you can change the belts and have the right tools to remove the crankshaft bolt it's an easy job. shop rate 1 hour less than $100 for the pulley and if your belts are reused thats all

You need to have the alternator tested as well. If you have a good battery but a bad alternator, it could take a while for the battery to discharge enough to cause there not to be enough power to engage the starter.

Also check your ground, not just at the battery, but at the engine block as well. Hope this helps/.

1) weak anti freeze 2) defective thermostate 3) out of range coolant temperature sending unit

Any of these or combination of these will give you the sympthoms you are experiencing

i do not know but you can call any good auto part store and they be able to tell you also give these websites a try www.alldatadiy.com and www.autozone.com if all fails call your local Ford dealership in the parts department and they be able to tell you wish you the best of luck Michigan Man.

the solenoid will maje no noise or just a click if bad. if good you will hear the sound of the inner plunger retracting with a poping noise
jump the solenoid wire to the battery cable to the starter and see if it works

Raise the car and check underneath. You should find a drain plug at the bottom of the tranny, and the fill plug is either on one side or towards the back. I can't find the diagram for your car, but this should be easy to find.
Some cars have a rubber check/fill plug. This is where you check the fluid level, on a flat surface. You also fill it up here, to the top of the check window. You have to use a fluid pump to fill it up. You can use a small hand pump that pumps it out of the container, or get fancy with a bigger model that holds the fluid also.
Some cars have a window cap that is a bolt with a half inch square in the middle. Just use a half-inch socket wrench with out a socket on it, or half-inch breaker bar.
Hope this helps.

First thing I would do is change your fuel filter! This dramatically changes the way a car starts. When key is on, it pumps the fuel, when released, the engine, regulator take over for most part, I would say fuel filter or ignition is bad.

Wrong type of brake light bulb installed.

you need to have the speed sensor checked.

I would really check the IGNITION SWITCH and termnials closely

I dont beleive you can BUT you can check the sensors(O2,map,knock,tps etc) that are setting off the check engine light with your multimeter.You have to find the manufacturers output specs on each sensor(which unfurtunately I dont have).You put your ground lead to ground and your positive lead to the voltage wire on each sensor (with multimeter on voltage setting) If you take the car to AutoZone or Pepboys they'll scan the check engine code to ID the sensor for FREE

It sounds to me like you replaced everything but the most likely cause of a stall while driving...The crank sensor.

#1 bad fuel injector or #2 clogged catalytic converter my bet is the injector