20 Most Recent 2002 Ford Expedition - Page 3 Questions & Answers

Most likely, the "RADIO" fuse (as marked on the fuse panel). It is usually a 15A fuse.

Probably fuel filter or fuel pump

No hot air is due to low coolant, or even poor coolant flow. The engine heats up the coolant, and it passed through your heater core, and the heater blower motor pushes air through the heater core to warm up the air. If your "fan"is working, but the air is cold, make sure your coolant level is good.

The fuse is in the fuse box. The fuse box is not always under the hood. It can also be found in the passenger cabin, sometimes under the steering wheel or set into the a-pillar on the driver's side or the passenger's side. It is usually in a closed box (for insulation purposes) - your vehicle manual will identify its location and how to open it. The fuse box should contain a legend that identifies the location of each fuse, what it protects and the correct amp rating. Always replace a blown fuse with one of the recommended amp rating to maintain circuit protection.

Look up by the rear end last crossmember

Most likely a bad plug or ignition coil on #7. Plugs and insulators should be changed at 60,000mi or 100,000km

There is no specific fuse just for the check engine ligh ! There are fuses for the instrument cluster , you could have just a burnt out blub ! You would need to pull the instrument cluster out to change it ! Link How to Replace Dashboard Lights In Depth You vehicle probably is not exactly the same as this !

THIS ALL DEPENDS ARE YOU GETTING A RAPID CLICKING NOISE OR JUST ONE CLICK WHEN YOU TURN THE KEY OR TOTALLY NOTHING AT ALL MOST LIKELY THE POWER DISTRIBUTION BOX CABLE CONNECTOR IS DIRTY OR CORRODED AND NEEDS TO BE CLEANED IT ALSO COULD BE YOUR BATTERY CABLES EVENTHOUGH THERE'S POWER AND THE HORN AND LIGHTS WORK THERE MIGHT NOT BE ENOUGH VOLTAGE FOR THE STARTER TO (A)CRANK (B) THE STARTER ITSELF CAN BE GONE BUT IT'S BEST TO TRY THE THINGS I'VE LISTED FIRST ELECTRICAL CLEANING ALL CONNECTORS RELATED TO THE BATTERY STARTER AND POWER DISTRIBUTION BOX THEN LET THE BATTERY CHARGE UP HOOKED UP FOR 15 MINUTES DO NOT TURN THE KEY JUST LET IT TAKE THE POWER THEN UN HOOK THE CABLES AND TRY TO START IT THIS IS BECAUSE YOU WILL BLOW OUT THE ALTENATORS IN BOTH CARS EVEN IF THERE'S A FRAME GROUND FROM TO MUCH RACING THE ENGINE IF THE GROUND SHOULD COME LOOSE /OLD CABLES NOW THERE'S GOING TO BE TO CARS BROKE DOWN INSTEAD OF ONE GOOD LUCK STEPHEN

It is under the dash panel right hand side , kick panel ? Fuse F1.1 10amp . an fuse F1.113 30 amp. Visual Inspection Chart Mechanical Electrical

• Windshield washer hoses
• Wiper linkage
• Multifunction switch

• CJB fuses:
  • 1 (10A)
  • 38 (25A)
  • 113 (30A)
• Circuitry
• Windshield wiper motor

• The windshield wipers are inoperative

• Multifunction switch.
• Circuitry.
• Ignition switch.
• Windshield wiper motor.

• Go To Pinpoint Test A .

PINPOINT TEST A: THE WINDSHIELD WIPERS ARE INOPERATIVE Test Step Result / Action to Take A1 CHECK CIRCUITS 65 (DG) AND 1002 (BK/PK) FOR VOLTAGE

• Key in OFF position.
• Disconnect: Windshield Wiper Motor C125.
• Key in ON position.
• Measure the voltage between windshield wiper C125 pin 5, circuit 65 (DG), harness side and ground; and between windshield wiper motor C125 pin 8, circuit 1002 (BK/PK), harness side and ground.
• Are the voltages greater than 10 volts?

Yes GO to A2 . No REPAIR the circuit(s) in question. TEST the system for normal operation. A2 CHECK CIRCUITS 57 (BK) AND 875 (BK/LB) FOR OPENS

• Key in OFF position.
• Measure the resistance between windshield wiper C125 pin 6, circuit 57 (BK), harness side and ground; and between windshield wiper motor C125 pin 3, circuit 875 (BK/LB), harness side and ground.
• Are the resistances less than 5 ohms?

Yes GO to A3 . No REPAIR the circuit(s) in question. TEST the system for normal operation. A3 CHECK THE MULTIFUNCTION SWITCH

• Disconnect: Multifunction Switch C202a.
• Carry out the multifunction switch component test. Refer to Wiring Diagrams Cell 149 for schematic and connector information.
• Did the multifunction switch pass the component test?

Yes GO to A4 . No INSTALL a new multifunction switch. REFER to Section 211-05 . A4 CHECK CIRCUIT 57 (BK) FOR OPEN

• Measure the resistance between C202a pin 4, circuit 57 (BK), harness side and ground.
• Is the resistance less than 5 ohms?

Yes GO to A5 . No REPAIR the circuit. TEST the system for normal operation. A5 CHECK CIRCUITS 56 (DB/OG), 58 (WH), 61 (YE/RD), AND 63 (RD) FOR OPENS

• Using the following table, measure the resistance between the multifunction switch C202a harness side and the windshield wiper motor C125 harness side: Multifunction Switch C202a Windshield Wiper Motor C125 pin 7, circuit 56 (DB/OG) pin 10, circuit 56 (DB/OG) pin 3, circuit 58 (WH) pin 11, circuit 58 (WH) pin 5, circuit 61 (YE/RD) pin 1, circuit 61 (YE/RD) pin 1, circuit 63 (RD) pin 9, circuit 63 (RD)
• Is the resistance less than 5 ohms?

Yes GO to A6 . No REPAIR the circuit(s) in question. TEST the system for normal operation. A6 CHECK FOR CORRECT WIPER MOTOR OPERATION

• Disconnect all wiper motor connectors.
• Check for:
  • corrosion
  • pushed-out pins
• Connect all wiper motor connectors and make sure they seat correctly.
• Operate the system and verify the concern is still present.
• Is the concern still present?

Yes GO to A7 . No The system is operating correctly at this time. Concern may have been caused by a loose or corroded connector. TEST the system for normal operation. A7 CHECK THE WINDSHIELD WIPER MOTOR

• Key in OFF position.
• Disconnect: Windshield Wiper Motor C125.
• Carry out the windshield wiper motor component test as described in this section.
• Did the windshield wiper motor pass the component test?

Yes The system is operating correctly at this time. Concern may have been caused by binding or incorrect pivot arm adjustment. REFER to Windshield Wiper Blade and Pivot Arm Adjustment in this section. TEST the system for normal operation. No INSTALL a new windshield wiper motor. REFER to Windshield Wiper Motor in this section. Hope this helps !

possible fuel pump shorting out problem, disconnect fuel pump wiring connector located around tank area under vehicle & turn key on again. if no more clicking from relay or theft warning stops. then change fuel pump, and check the short wiring harness to fuel pump for overheat signs.

The fuel filter is installed with quick-disconnect fittings. You auto parts store rent and/or sells these tools to allow you to change the filter. Do not try to use anything else to release the filter or you risk damage and leakage.

Call Customer service!

One of two places. First is on the passenger side, just in front of the fuel tank. the other location is on the frame under the drivers door .

Here is a youtube video that might help. If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/michael_2496c4f07ad24453

When you said you had it flushed out, were you talking about the radiator or the heater core. The heater core is a miniature radiator. It can get gummed up just like the big one. You will probably have to remove the heater core and have it rodded out by a radiator shop. If you have done that already then there is a problem with the regulator for the heater. Usually it is a simple valve type open and close system to allow more or less hot water into the heater core.

from my experience, if you get one bad coil you might as well change all 8 of them. They will just drop like flies until you do.

U need a new coil. They wear out from heat and age. Also bad plugs put strain on it cause they draw to much currant

Sounds like you have a sensor going or has gone, if you can limp it to autozone or oreilly's or even check with your local community college and see if they have a vocational auto repair program, if the engine management is ok, IE the brain box, you should be able get the error codes with a code scanner and go from there, ok?

Get an ob2 code reader and read the codes!