20 Most Recent 1994 Ford Aerostar Extended - Page 6 Questions & Answers

Most starters have one large wire ( the same size that goes to the positive side of the starter) and another wire (which is smaller) that goes to the ignition switch and only receives power when the key is in the crank position. So if those two wires end up touching each other somehow, then that is exactly what would happen. When you connect the battery terminals the starter will engage and try to start. Originally I don't know why you replaced the solenoid, but a cracked electrical portion of the ignition switch will do the same thing. So what I am saying is if you replaced your old solenoid because it burned out, there is always that possibility that your ignition switch was faulty and burned it out. Good Luck. Hope this was a little helpful.

Hi,
The reason why cruise control doesn't work is due to break switch maybe to sensitive or out of adjustment causing while going over bumps. You have to check for the adjustments on the brake switch. There is also a switch on the accelerator linkage. You have to replace the switch itself if it is defective. These are available at most auto-parts stores and you can get them easily.
Thank you !!

I need a little more to be able to help. What make and model vehicle?What engine? Does it have fuel injection? Do you know to check for trouble codes? If so, what are they, if any?

Fuses and their location (under instrument panel on
driver’s side)...



Foe details about description and positions check the Aerostar Owners Manual.

Hope helps (remember comment and rated this).

You need to replace the buckle with a new one, there are no servicable parts with seat belts.

The most common cause is low air pressure in the right front tire. The next most common is a bad tie rod end on either the right or the left. A very bad ball joint can also cause this problem. If you can't find anything obvious the van needs the front end aligned. Many tire shops can do it and all tire shops will know someone that can do it. Part of the front end alignment is to check the condition of any and all parts that could make the vehicle pull. Check the tire first though. Good Luck!

NO. the airbag will only go off in a direct frontal collision at about 9mph(in usa) and 15mph in europe.the warning light is to tell you that you have a fault in the system and it may NOT go off unless rectified.

The only component that must stay in place to pass federal emissions is the catalytic convertor. If you are not concerned with emissions then a straight pipe will be fine. There will not be any adverse performance problems with a straight pipe. Please rate my help this helps me out , Thankyou RJ

Both the front seal and the rear gasket are fairly easy fix, But don't let anybody over torque the seal, You can add more oil, and let it sling all over the place, your car will never rust, the filler plug looks like a bolt with a square hole in it, the end of ratchet or breaker bar will fit it, 1/2 inch, you can fill it up there. Hope this helps.

You may have internal damage to the trans. Check the fluid level, and condition first, then you should have the car checked for codes by having it scanned with the proper scan tool. But if you have no engagement in drive, chances are you have an internal failure, in which case you will need some type of overhaul

May be the incorrect oil , low on oil you may have an oil pressure problem. Have the vehicle diagnosed by a
certified repair shop. Its a 16 yr old car have, the techn do an oil pressure check,check out sending unit and its circuitry . Worse case new engine or partial engine rebuild( pump, cam and crank bearings).
Best case ,low on oil .

yes it is.

eather your door is ajar or your tailgate is ajar or one of the switches in the door is broken or loose

Hello. Get a can of WD-40 penetrating lubricant at any auto parts store, walmart, etc. It comes with a tiny plastic tube which will permit you to squirt some right into the jammed latch. Squirt a couple of squirts and let it sit over night. The lube will work it's way in, dissolving crud and grease as it works. If the first treatment doesnt solve the problem give it a second treatment. Regards, Joe

Are you talking about the safety fuel shut off meant to shut of the fuel in case of a accident? Im assumng thats what your meaning, so on most Ford vehicles its on the passenger side floor kick board (apillar)... If you look down there and cant find it, then check your owners manual...

if you haven't driven it yet you might still be able to save it but if ATFgot into your seals you might end up having to replace all your braking components.you have to open the bleeders at all four wheels and let it all just drain out. you might want to go barrow a brake bleeder set from advance auto parts they have loaner tools for free.once its all out refill.goodluck

how did water get in there? the reservoir has two lines the large one is the feed and small one is the return you need to remove the small line and make it dump into a separate container. but you have to plug the hole where the line came from so that res. doesn't loose clean fluid. now start engine as reservoir level drops keep filling until you see new fluid.

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