20 Most Recent 1997 Chevrolet Malibu - Page 3 Questions & Answers

oil drain plug is on the bottom of the oil pan, which is under the engine. a proper sized wrench will remove the oil plug. have a large drain pan ready, (5-6 quarts). You might as well have an oil change done at this time as its just a guess how much oil you remove by quickly re installing the plug while draining. If you do drain just a little oil, keep checking the dip stick to be sure not to add more than needed. Add a 1/4 quart at a time. be sue to tighten the drain plug JUST SNUG.

If your at home changing the oil, how would you get under it to work on it,change the oil ,etc, without raising it up & supporting it on quality jack stands? You would be better to put it on the ground level when you have added the new oil & are going to start it, verse leaving it on stands at an angle Have to add oil to the new filter

There is a bolt on the bottom of the oil pan that allows the oil to drain out. Take out this bolt until the oil has drained out. From empty put 4-4.5 qts into the engine (on a level surface) then start and let it run for 20-30 sec, then turn off the engine and let it sit for 1 min or more before checking the oil level. The crosshatched area of the dipstick indicates one quart.

either.

There is a sensor on the top of the engine which turns the fans on. it is usually located near the thermostat housing but dont confuse it with the temperature sensor which can easily be tested in the same means by watching the temperature gauge as you ground it out. it may take several seconds to indicate it on your sensors. If you by-pass and hook the fans up direct without an in-line fuse and there is resistance in the line from a bad fan motor you will melt the wires and the fan motor itself. Use a 30 or 40 amp fuse inline and put on a switch if you like but don't hook direct but only for a few seconds or so to see if is working well. Use very thick wire like booster cable wire. Take the lead off the sensor and contact it to the ground on the engine. If the fans start up with car running even cold then replace this sensor. If not check relay by switching with same numbered relays typical in most vehicles. Mark the original relay and note it's position, take pics if you like to aid in placement. East Coast Canada Rules. Good luck!

Hi, this one is easy but could be several things. starting with the easiest is that your battery is dead as you left the lights on so get a boost and if the car still runs after the booster is disconnected then the alternator is charging and running the system so isnt' that. 2. sometimes the starter sticks onto the flywheel so if you put it in neutral and push the car a bit it will usually free it, then try to start. 3. the contacts from the battery or where it attaches to the starter is corroded ( be careful you don't break anything when removing to clean. you may break it if it's not cleaned and use penetrating oil. prior to this remove the positive side of the battery so you don't short things out. 3. the short wire between the solenoid and the starter (thick copper wire, is not connecting and that needs to be cleaned (the contacts.) 4 the disk inside the solenoid is pitted and can be removed to be filed or sanded smooth so the contacts well meet. you can get a solenoid for $20 bucks usually but I take them apart and clean them and they work great for years. I suspect that either there is not enough voltage from a loose or corroded connection - a corroded battery post will reduce cranking amps by 80 percent. I really suspect the connection between the starter and the solenoid which is attached to the starter usually and is removeable and repairable as mentioned above. Good luck.

sounds like bad ignition switch

you would need to get the cars vin # and have a key made, there no other way without damaging the lock or glovebox,

Are you loosing fuel or spark when the engine dies ? Is the fuel pump getting power when the engine dies ?

code p0102 refers to mass air flow (MAF) sensor/volume air flow (VAF)sensor --low input===causes-- wiring short to ground---MAF/VAF sensor---ECM replace sensor

screws on the back of steering wheel covered with lil plastic screw hole covers

DISCONNECT THE NEGIVTIVE SIDE OF THE BATTERY LET IT RESET THE COMPUTER ABOUT TEN MINUTES RE TRY

over filled with oil .

I suspect that your fuel system is faulty. Check for a clogged fuel filter, or if your fuel pump don't run at all, replace the "fuel pump relay". Fuel pump may be faulty. Sometimes your fuel pump will run, but be too weak to hold pressure, which will let your car idle somewhat, but be too weak to run the engine at speed or under load.

If you cant find the spark plugs in a vehicle you dont need to be driving it- cause you cant find the gas tank filler either

Bad bulb, bad connection from bulb to socket, excessive use of contact grease. try a to clean out the socket or find a way to make the contact better between bulb and socket. May have to replace the socket.

No mention if rear drums or disks altho let's assume drums. Look for fluid leaking out of inside of rear wheels it will leave a stain on inside of tires below the drums. Replace 25.00 wheel cylinders 40.00 brake shoes, replace drums for 40 each or have them turned for 10 bucks each, replace hold down spring kit as well as the two lines going to the rear wheel cylinders, they can be broken off first before attempting to remove wheel cylinders this will allow u to get a socket on the fitting going into the T-block located usually to one side or in middle of the axle. Just break the old line off and gently hammer a socket onto old fitting sometimes give quick jolt to tighten prior to trying tonremove fitting to loosen rust. WD40 perpetrating oil and brake fluid is a good release agent but brake fluid is very corrosive like acid and will eat paint and burn eyes and is highly explosive if heated with a torch. If no sign of leakage then check to see if shoes have separated from their position by hold - down springs breaking or the pads separating from the shoes thus the shoes will rub against the drums and make noise like rattling or scraping, and engaging as they seem to be doing here. One other consideration is the abs modulating valve unit located under the hood. A big black flattened football shaped device is the booster the aluminum block attached to the face of this is the Master brake cylinder and is where the brake fluid is refilled. This should be kept at min and max levels and will be low if the rear wheel cylinders are leaking and showing leakage signs as described above. The booster and Master Cylinder is located under hood drivers side firewall below the windshield. Carefully remove the cover to inspect fluid levels. Below or close to this Master Cylinder is the modulator for the abs system. Brake lines will be going to this from the master cylinder then to the wheels, typically one for each front corner and one line to the rear which then separates to each wheel at the T-block mentioned above. Be careful of moving and damaging any rubber flex - hoses as these can be costly but must be repaired if cracked. Be sure to get correct fitting lines as there are inverted and extroverted fittings on the ends and small increments in sizes from metric to standard sizes. Always match old fitting threads by holding next to new ones and see if threads fit exactly against new ones and diameter is same as sometimes bigger diameter will still match threads but will be noticeably bigger. All in all with respect to the description given (better than most I see here) I suspect this modulator control valve unit is the culprit or a short in the wiring leading to it. Inspect all wiring to the abs sensors to each wheel for breaks and solder new wires on fairly easily if broken or exposed and shorted. Try unplugging abs fuse and relay prior to removal of the unit. Your brakes should work normally under these conditions but perhaps with more pressure. Air or problems in the lines or wheels at this point will make the brakes work individually and if a wheel grabs more than others for instance indicates a problem with that wheel or air in the lines of the others or again the modulator proportioning block attached to the master cylinder. Wow! There are tricky processes here but some you may be able to check with relative ease if you read carefully and figure my solutions out, starting with the easiest first and that's fluid levels in master cylinder and leakage at inside of rear wheels. This is a dangerous situation and I don't recommend driving until resolved. This could be a sign of imminent and total brake system failure. Try looking on kijiji for cheap back yard mechanic in your area. www.kijiji.com in USA, www.kijiji.ca in Canada and kijiji is nearly world wide! YouTube.com gives great videos to help you with this solution as well for free. Good luck hope I help some but understandable if frustrated and perplexed but maybe one bit of advice may lead to your cheap solution. East Coast Canada Rocks! !

Go to auto parts store, advance, oreily's , autozone

sounds like fan is shorted check fan