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1998 GMC Safari - Page 8 Questions & Answers
The line that snaps into
Nowhere that I am aware of. I had a similar issue with a 94 model Buick, and I exchanged the fuel pump at the store without any issue.
There is a 1996 GMC
Depends if you kept fluids in it. If so Just try to turn it over with a new battery. You old one probably is no good. After a few turns if you have new gas in tank, it should start. I bought a Ford Ranger that sat up for 3 years and it cranked right up.
Vent control not working.
Usually due to vacuum leak. GMC uses poor quality plastic piping going form the left side front of engine by ac accumulator and runs to the driver side of engine
Recently had new idler arms installed along with
When you change the two idler arms did you have the front end aligned? It could be possible that the alignment is off. If you are having to put alot of input to the steering wheel while driving that may give you the sway feeling you are describing. The torsion bars control front ride height and should be checked as part of the alignment. Hope this helps.
Any special tools needed to
yes its called a Brake drum tool. looks like pliers almost but it has 4 different heads for all parts of the shoe and drum assembly. usually they package has all the instructions on how to use the different heads of the tool, and they're only 15-20 bucks and save so much head ache
All of a sudden the
The first thing you need to do is check to make sure you are getting power to the wiper motor. If you have a DVOM (digital volt ohm meter) you can test it yourself. Use your DVOM to check for power at the washer motor terminal. Touch the DVOM ground lead to a solid ground source such as the engine block. Touch the positive lead to the positive terminal on your motor. If there is no power to your motor, check for blown fuses and damaged wiring to the washer motor. Test the fuse using a twelve volt test light. Clip the ground lead to a solid ground source and touch the positive lead to each side of the fuse. If the test light lights up on both terminals, the fuse is good. If your test light only lights up on one side of the fuse or neither, replace the fuse. Use your needle nose pliers to remove the fuse and install a good fuse. Replace the fuse box cover and proceed to the next step. Make sure the mounting bolts are not rusted over and are making a good contact to the car. If all of this checks out ok, then you probably need t replace the motor.
I hope this has been helpful
My ac quit blowing through
there is a vaccum hose coming from the intake manifold behind the a/c compressor goint to the vaccum tank right hand of the radiator the main hose will split by the thermostate housing center front of engine, you will need to repair the hose and or repl hose that should fix ya up
I have a fuel problem.
the regulator is on the end of the fuel supply rail with a thin rubber pipe going to it ,i dont think that these american home market build vans came with an immobilisor but i could be wrong
Automatic door locks do not work
Check fuses.
If the fuse for this circuit is ok, and you hear an attempt for the solenoids to operate the door locks, then the solenoids (actuator) for the door lock should be replaced with a newer one that has more strength.
Also, wiring to the switch for the door lock should be checked with a test light to see if it is even getting current. Will have to disassemble the door trim and remove the switch to get at the terminals.
Can test whether the door lock actuator is getting current with a test light as well.
Water leaking from engine
check your hoses where they connect to the Radiator. Are they swolen and did they rupture? Check the heater hoses and your bypass hoses. See if the water is coming from the front of the motor, down low. it could be a water Pump.
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