20 Most Recent 1994 GMC Jimmy - Page 9 Questions & Answers

Unfortunately, I had the same problem and had to cut the wires because the chassis is in the way, just leave enough wire to heat-sink or re-splice

There are two gas filled struts. one on each side of the window, they need to be replaced.

If you have a distributor cap with a rotor , it is possible that the gear on the bottom of the distributor is striped. It is driven off a similar gear on the cam shaft.

Have you checked the timing with a timing light? I have seen these engines jump time from a worn distributor.

check your floorboard, any water in it? if so there is a heater core leak and it needs to be replaced. if not then the temp lever/knob is either blown (if electric), or the cable that opens and closes the hot/cold bypass has broken or loose. Is the dial hard to turn or super easy to turn, does it click as u turn it. also, check ur heater fuses in the fuse panel. One other thing it could be is ur thermostat has failed and is stuck in the "open position" the engine will take a lil longer to warm up and when it does, if it is stuck open and doesn't close then it is not controlling the water temp in the engine and therefore causing the heater to blow cold air.

Sounds like you have a cracked distibutor cap or a bad rotor button has a hole burnt in it.

On my truck it just flashes till i move the truck forward abit then it locks in.

start at the distributor and look inside at the posts. if they look wet or damp then spray it down with WD-40. it displaces water. if the posts look dirty or corroded then you need a new cap and rotor.
plugs may need changed and wires may need changed. another possibility is a coil may be giving you problems. but the worst case may be that a injector may be bad. do the simple things first then proceed to the injector checks. you will have to take it to a shop for that.

the 'pick up' module is inside the distributor, under the rotor at the base of the shaft-it lifts out and is connected to a harness.

Hello,

First You need to know thatDrive the truck up onto vehicle ramps slowly and set the parkingbrake. Chock the rear tires using the wheel chocks to prevent it from rolling,as an added safety measure.

Allow the engine to completely cool before performing the thermostat replacement. Put on your safety glasses and remove the radiator cap to relieve the pressure from the radiator, hose and cooling system.

Disconnect both the negative and positive battery cables. Place the clean 5-gallon bucket underneath the radiator drain plug to capture the drained fluid.

Reach underneath the front end and loosen the drain plug (bolt) using a socket wrench. Drain out only enough anti-freeze to empty out the upper radiator hose that attaches to the thermostat housing cover. Re-tighten the drain plug.

Remove the carburetor cleaner and filter by unscrewing the center wing nut using your hand. Disconnect the upper radiator hose where it attaches to the thermostat housing cover. It's held in place by a squeeze-type clamp. Keep the opposite end that connects to the radiator attached.

Remove the mounting bolts that attach the housing cover to the manifold using the socket wrench. Gently tap the housing cover with a hammer to break the seal or pry it off with a flat-head screwdriver. Remove the cover and set it aside.

Scrape off the old gasket, debris and adhesive from the housing cover and thermostat opening using a gasket scraper. Be careful not to allow any debris to enter into the engine opening.

Test the new thermostat before installing it to be certain that it's operating properly. Fill a 4-inch-deep bowl with very hot water. Grab the thermostat upright using your pliers and hold it in the hot water, being sure to cover the entire unit. The thermostat should open immediately, indicating that it is functioning properly.

Apply a thin bead of gasket adhesive to the replacement gasket. Place the gasket directly onto the thermostat opening on the manifold. Be sure to properly align the mounting holes so that the thermostat will seat properly and to avoid leaking.

Insert the replacement thermostat with the spring side facing down into the engine. Carefully place the housing cover over the thermostat and secure it in place with the mounting bolts, being careful not to shift the gasket.

Reconnect the radiator hose and secure it in place using the squeeze clamp. Replace the carburetor cleaner and filter unit.

Re-connect both battery cables, start the engine and then pour the drained anti-freeze back into the radiator. Allow the engine to run for several minutes while you check for leaks. Top it off with additional antifreeze as necessary and replace the fill cap.

Remove the wheel chocks and carefully drive the truck off of the vehicle ramps.

Hope this helped. Thank You for using FixYa!!!

165432 Dr side front to rear,135 Pass side front to rear 246

Drivers Side, On The Firewall, Will Be A Cream Colored , Rectangular Container, With A Black Top Cover !

this what you were looking for

Right front kick panel.

If you want to do this you need to remove the inner door panel( and maybe a weather barrier). be aware if you have any power options with switches on the door panel they must be disconnected before you attempt door panel removal.as soon as you remove the door panel(usually two or three screws and a dozen easily breakable plastic clips holding it in place) you will be able to see the window lift mechanism. if the window has not fallen completely off track you will be able to see how it is held by the "lift cradle" carefully without letting the window fall down into the door place the window back into its track"cradle" and loosely tighten the fasteners. and reconnect the window crank or window switch temporarily to slowly lift and lower the window while supporting it with your hand (to be sure it doesn't fall off its track while testing it) check if the window is tracking properly. if if seems to slide up and down appropriately and lands into the window seal appropriately then lower the window to a place where you can snug down the window retainers not too tight so as not to break the glass. and replace the door panel. after all switches or mechanisms are replaced test it again slowly to check for appropriate function and if you are satisfied pat yourself on the back for a job well done. i hope this helps

check all your hoses to the fuel pump.

check the battery life or alternatore

Mine wouldnt engage either even though I could hear the relay click when put in 4 wheel drive. It ended up being an air hose located on a vac pump located under the battery. You have to remove the battery and then the plate it sits on to get to it. I replaced the hose all the way from the pump to a valve mounted atop the tranny. 6ft of hose was all it took and my 4 wheel drive kicked right in. The pump actuates a fork gear on the front axle.

if I rember correctly on my 94 s10 it was behind the glove box

The line your looking for usually follows the driver side. It will run along the inside under the floor mat or carpet, nest to the doors, then run in the panel in the rear, where it will split for the lights. If you remove the plate at the drivers door and pull back some carpet, you will see it.