Top 10 2005 Chevrolet Uplander Questions & Answers

2 possible solutions. First clean the door pin contacts(multiple spring loaded pins on door side and matching plate on body) with a scotch pad until shiny gold color again. Second the rear edge of the door should be 1mm inside the body opening when closed. If those are correct it is going to take a software download from a dealer to the door control module to fix this. Otherwise you will have to pull the psd fuse and breaker from the right side dash fuse box.

The fuel filter on this vehicle is located inside the fuel tank and is an integral part of the fuel pump module assembly. As such, it's not replaceable by itself and can only be serviced by replacing the entire pump module. It's a "lifetime" filter, in theory anyway, but it can plug up if there has been a large amount of crud that has gotten into the tank somehow. The best way to determine if the filter is restricted is to have the fuel pressure tested as part of a road test drive to see if the pressure remains steady [indicating a good pump and ok filter] or drops off [indicating a restricted filter or weak pump] Hope this helps!

The tailgate on my 2008 Chevy Uplander refused to open. The unlock fuse was fine. The handle pull worked fine. I could even hear the little motor that unlocks the tailgate whirr when I pushed the unlock button. But the gate would not release. Turns out the problem was the lock mechanism was jammed because it had dirt in it and not enough grease. From the inside, I pulled the lift gate panel out at the window so I could look down and see the lock mechanism at the bottom of the lift gate. I reached down and prodded it with my screwdriver until I noticed that parts of the mechanism weren't sliding back and forth like they should. I sprayed it with a silicone lubricant until the parts started working again. Finally, the lock unlatched and I could open the rear hatch. I could then remove the entire plastic panel and remove the lock mechanism. I found that the mechanism has lots of rubber and plastic parts which get chewed up and start to jam if not properly lubricated. I cleaned out the dirt with my silicone spray and thoroughly lubricated all the moving parts. The latch now lets go of the post very easily, and the lift gate no longer gets stuck.

If you look at the top of the head light assembly with the hood open just past the top rubber seal, you will see an alan head adjustor screw. This will adjust the low beam light up and down. the high beams are fixed. I would suggest shining your headlights on to a wall or garage door to get them to the same hight you need.

I am assuming that the design was not changed from my 2005 updander to your 2008. I had to adjust mine while on a road trip. We had a lot of people and stuff in my vehicle which made the headlights shine higher than normal. I was getting a lot of on commig traffic flashing. I was able to ajust them down fairly easy with those adjustor screws. Hope this helps.

Do you get this message on the dash." All wheel drive system disabled" If you are getting this message,then it has to be checked by the diagnostic tool.I -------------------- Are you getting ABS light on display.If yes then you vehicle has to be scanned for codes.

Two things can disable the AWD system, and that's an ABS fault, or the rear differential solenoid. If there are no other lights, then the ABS probably isn't disabling it, because in order for the ABS to disable it, it would have to set a fault code and turn on the ABS indicator. That leaves us with the rear differential solenoid. Inside that solenoid is a temp sensor and when it reads the fluid it too hot, it will disable the AWD system so it can cool back off. The problem is that the sensor fails and reads hot all the time, keeping the system disabled, even when cool. Get install a scan tool and verify that the system is disabled due to over temp before replacing, because if I remember correctly, the solenoid is about $250 and you will need to buy a $25 bottle of fluid to top it off (even though you only need about 1/4 of the bottle).
On rare occasions, we see a corroded terminal at the pass through connector underneath the vehicle, behind the drivers seat. They can fill up with water and corrode the terminals and sometimes the terminals get corroded at the solenoid itself, but most of the cases the solenoid is faulty.-------------- This should help.Thanks.Helpmech.

The locking mechanism on the rear lift gate for the Chevy Uplander has some plastic and rubber-coated parts that can get jammed. If you can pull back the panel from the inside top near the glass, you can reach down and try to spray some silicone lubricant into the lock. This could help get those parts unstuck so they spring back when you pull on the handle latch from the outside. Once you get the rear hatch open, I recommend taking out the locking mechanism and thoroughly lubricating it. Your rear lift gate will start to release very easily from then on.

If there is no port on the front of the radio, your vehicle does not have the option for an aux port.

Will be located near the wheel hub. As long as there is no physical damage I would guess you will be replacing the sensor

Check linkage at transmission. Cable end may have popped off ball fitting. Just snap it back on .it will pop off sometimes if you shift it hard . Hope this helps

You don’t need to remove the dash or remove AC refrigerant from 2005 Chevy Uplander. Its a simple job takes about an hour with 10 mm socket and Phillips screwdriver. Core is in the center of dash near the floor. Remove lower panels on center of dash where passanger
Left leg and driver right leg would be. Also the front lower panel where cigarette lighter is. They pop out. Also remove fiber cover from under glove box and driver area. Remove large black plastic member behind where the lower center panels were. Two black screws in front and seveal screws in either side. Pull to rear to slide out. Remove metal bracket on floor with 4-10mm. Remove vent from floor pops out. Look up underneath from area you created under center of dash. Many vertical gold colored screws. Remove first cover panel 4 screws. Remove second panel mores screws. Theres one clear against firewall by driver side also. After this heater core is accessible held in with only one screw by firewall remove it and core drops out easily after wiggle out pipe ends from firewall holes. This is about 20 minutes to this point

Before remove heater core, drain coolant, remove front engine yoke bolts, ratchet strap engine pull forward and block. Pop out windshield wiper link and brake booster vacuum hose so can reach hose connections from engine side. Remove hose clamps and disconnect hoses to core. One hose is 3/4 id and the other is 5/8” that necks out to 3/4” on other end.

The hardest part about the whole job was getting the hoses off then in with these spiring clamps and finding the right replacement hose and connectors. Not the removal of the core which is surprisingly easy.