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1994 Dodge Shadow - Page 6 Questions & Answers
90 dodge shadow starts but wont run
Based on what you have supplied, It's probably not enough to go on, but if it is turning over and then dying straight away. It could be a compression issue. Perhaps you have a broken timing belt or timing chain.
If it isn't that and you think it's a power problem, then it could be something like a failing starter motor or Alternator.
A failing starter motor would cause the car to start sometimes but not always.(because the brushes inside will be wearing down).
And a failing alternator would be preventing your battery from recharging properly while the car is running.
I'm sorry, without more details on the problem I can't offer more advice that this.
All the best to you.
Battery drains down over night,new battery alternator is charging
That means that there is a short or a problem to the wirings to car stereo, or doors. No matter if the radio is not mounted.
Inspect all the wirings to car stereo , doors and internal lights.
If you do not find anything you will need to check amps to door, internal lights car stereo, etc, by doing a draw test on this wirings.
This will tell you where the problem is.
Antifreeze leaking
it's possible the gasket was not seated properly... or there is a small hose in the back.... it's likely you'll need to put it on a lift and look at it from below to see.... just look for a lime green colour fluid.
Heating in my car
There is a valve that controls the hot water into the vehicle heat exchanger which is on the cab side of the firewall. The device is controlled mechanically with a push-pull cable , by vacuum control or electro-mechanically by a servo actuator.
There are most likely TWO pipes that come from the engine radiator and go through the firewall, rear wall of the engine compartment, into the passenger cab area. The Heat exchanger control valve is
mounted somewhere along the path of ONE of those pipes or tubes (the "input" tube).
There are many threads on the Internet on this vehicle and year, and so many concern heating/cooling.
I would suggest getting or borrowing a $20-25 manual on the car and going to the body section and
tracing either the vacuum diagram or the heating control section to find the valve and also the dash controls. Something is disconnected or broken with either one of the three methods described.
This assumes all else is OK and NO COOLANT leaked into the Oil (frothy Oil on dipstick)
and no Transmission Fluid is in the Coolant (oily color reddish in the Coolant with oil smell instead of sugary sweet smell) ; if the coolant system integrity is compromised in any way as described; stop -> go to a mechanic <-; increasing damage is imminent.
If its just a control issue, you can probably set the valve up at 1/2 open if its a mechanical type with push-pull cable; I have done this on several cars when the control cable rusts; disconnect the valve end and set it manually 1/2 or 3/4 for the winter
Johnny
Need help
most likely it is the thermostat.
check your coolant and oil. if the coolant is chunky (this can happen if it's been in there a very long time) try draining it and flushing it. obviously replace the oil if it's dirty/low. these cars do have some minor problems with leaking valve cover gaskets.
if your coolant is extremely low compared to where you last left it check for leaks. cranking the heat up to high and blasting the fans will usually help you spot them.
if all of these things are fine try replacing the thermostat, they're about $4-12 depending which one you get and very easy to replace. don't forget the gasket for it. the old one's probably melted if it's been in there a while.
****note: any time the coolant is emptied/ replaced you need to bleed the block or it will continue to overheat. it's bolt above where you install the thermostat and where the coolant goes in and out of the block. it uses an allen wrench and can be hard to unstick without a torque wrench allen. be sure to leave it open until coolant starts to leak out, and not to cross thread when retightening.****
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