4 wheel drive locks in one side one side will not some times makes a sound to if 2 sides are in

Send issue to [email protected]. he answers for free nothn he doesnt know

Probably dirt or grit got in to your CV joint check cv joint for tear or small rip

Just a suggestion but you should consider soldering all your electrical connections to insure they are weather and vibration proof. Additionally, I added a small 3 amp circuit breaker, but a 1.5 to 2 Amp automotive fuse and fuse holder will do nicely.

Process:

1- Disassemble the 'Instrument/Light' cluster cover.

2- Remove the 'Radiator access' panel.

>>>Perform This Test BEFORE Proceeding and make SURE all power is OFF!<<<

3-On the drivers LEFT side of the radiator access area, locate two (2) connectors, each with SOLID GREY wires and BROWN wires with a WHITE Stripe on top and smaller diameter Solid Grey and Brown wires with a White stripe leading down.
--a) Disconnect both connectors by pulling the top and bottom sections away from each other. (DO NOT pull the WIRES, use the connector body to pull).
--b) Test EACH of the two (2) connectors with the SMALL DIAMETER wires leading down. (see Hub Coil Connectors pix)
--c) Using an OHM meter, measure the resistance across the two pins (one connector at a time) for each connector. Depending on the accuracy and sensitivity of the meter, each connector should read between 25 and 28 OHMS. NOTE: If EITHER of the two (2) Hub Coils reads ZERO (0) or less than 25 or Greater than 28 OHMS STOP!!! The Hub Coil itself OR the wires OR the connectors may be defective or in need of repair!
--d) Using an OHM meter, on EACH of the two connectors, measure the resistance between one pin of each connector and GROUND (any bare metal point on the ATV frame). NOTE: If EITHER of the two (2) connectors resistance to GROUND reads anything GREATER/ABOVE than ZERO ( 0 ) OHMS STOP!!! The Hub Coil itself OR the wires OR the connectors may be defective or in need of repair!

>>>If the test in 'c)' or 'd)' FAIL STOP, DO NOT proceed!! The Hub Coil itself OR the wires OR the connectors may be defective and MUST be repaired before ANYTHING else is done!<<<

4-(For my model) On the right handlebar, check the lamp in the AWD switch to make sure it is not burned out or missing. Replace lamp if necessary. (Not essential to the AWD operation, just nice to have to confirm voltage is being applied to the front wheel Hub Coils)

5-In the 'Radiator Access' area, locate the Red/White stripe wires providing (switched) full time + (battery plus) voltage (accessory power) via a ¼" female connector. "Accessory Leads" - in the wiring diagram.

6-Using a volt meter (or continuity light), CONFIRM that the terminal is OFF (NO voltage) when the ignition switch and the 'Engine STOP/START switch (on the left handlebar) are both OFF, and has + (positive) battery voltage, when the ignition switch and 'Engine STOP/START switch are both ON, with the engine NOT running.

Sounds like you have ball joint or steering linkage problems..have some one set on the seat and make hard turns right and left while you watch for excessive movement " linkage or ball joint slap " before the wheels actually turn..or jack the front end up one side at a time and with the steering wheel strapped in place"bungee chord " move each wheel up and down and left to right..find the excess movement and go from there..good luck

Sounds like there dif is gone or drive shaft

Secrets of Starter Motor and Drive Replacement for 1999 Polaris Scrambler 400 4 X 4 1. Yes you must access both sides of the starter to remove it. Remove clutch covers on left side of machine and covers and pull starter cover on right side of machine. 2. There are two bolts on the clutch pulley side and two bolts under the pull start cover that must be removed to free the starter/starter drive. The starter and drive must be removed and installed from the left (clutch pulley) side together. That's different than the 500. 3. You only need to remove the positive lead from the battery and starter motor post. The starter is grounded by being bolted to frame. 4. The starter is at the bottom of the motor, not like the 500 at all which is accessed through the air box. You can find it by removing the plastic skid plate on the bottom of the engine. You can prop up two wheels on the left side so the machine is 45 degrees tipped up onto both right wheels. Make sure the fuel and oil caps are screwed in tight. 5. It is difficult, but you can remove the two bolts on the left side without removing the actual drive and driven clutches. The clutch cover must be removed though. 6. Under the pull start cover on the right side you can remove the two bolts holding the starter in. One of them is about 4" long and goes through the actual starter motor. It's tough to remove without bending because your u joint partially blocks it. 7. Now you can wiggle the starter and drive out from the left side through the slot in the frame. 8. Decision before you start: How much do I pay for parts? The range is from $50 - $150. Is the expensive part better? This is a difficult repair. Can I really do it myself? If not, what am I willing to pay for labor? I did it for $50, but if it goes out again I will try to find someone who will do the labor for $150 or less. I might go for the more expensive parts if the cheaper ones don't hold out.

turf mode is where only one wheel is powering the sportsman.
sounds like the left wheel is the one that would drive it.
i can not figure out if it is the rear left wheel but it may be. i would see if there is a problem with that.

Sounds like a bent axle.... or something in the rear differential. ...the heat generated by the bent axle will cause all the clearances to disappear!!!

sounds like u need to change your hub fluids and or clean the meatal rings in the hubs so the electro magnets will engage your hubs efficiantly

it could be, polaris uses an electronically controlled lock in hub. broken wires or bad switch also.