Your One Source Electrical Supplies - Recent Questions, Troubleshooting & Support

Depending on the electrical panel you have installed... some breakers of different Mfg's can be used in the panel... you would have to validate the "Physical Fit" at the store where you are purchasing... however... putting in breakers of different Mfg's will not look like the panel was professionally installed. I would like to use the same or exact replacement for the panel Mfg. the cost cannot be that much different... and buying exact replacement should give you piece of mind. Btw, I’m available to help over the phone in case u need at https://www.6ya.com/expert/lisa_52daba487e5b4d53

Go to my app store, find the my apps look for Facebook click on it and press the uninstall button. it should take a couple of sec.

I checked my code sheet, and only the ground bus is to be bonded to the box. The box comes with a screw that will bond the bus to the box through a bus mounting hole, the threaded hole is down there, behind the bus. The neutral does not get bonded to the box.

For the neutral buss bar, a bonding screw goes through the buss bar into the box. Same for the ground buss bar. Usually, neutral does not meet ground until the meter, so there may only be a bonding screw for the ground buss bar. Look carefully, check with electricians.

Get a letter from the manufacturer saying that the panel assembly and components meet all applicable National, State and Local codes. The inspector is an xss.

hello, all you have to do is to get a new breaker with the same amperage or amp's example 15 amp's of the breaker that's blown and pop out the old one and put in your new one , in the future when working with electricity always manual trip the breaker before working for your safety and the safety of the equipment .good luck

1) Move wire to another same-size breaker.http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-replace-circuit-breaker.html2) Understand electric service:http://waterheatertimer.org/See-inside-main-breaker-box.html3) Troubleshoot.http://waterheatertimer.org/Troubleshoot-household-electricity.html If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gene_9f0ef4df2f9897e7

Copy following link:Scroll down to '120 volt subpanel'http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-install-a-subpanel.html If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gene_9f0ef4df2f9897e7

NO! The main breaker in each box matches the components of that box. Although it might fit, you are looking at a major code violation and possible fire danger. Which if you wanted to sell it later, could give you problems even if it did work and you didn't get have a fire.Each circuit breaker box it rated to an amperage level and the main breaker is sized for that rating. Find the box tag and check what it is rated at.

this you would need a meter to tell were the problem is you need to put the meter one on the netrual and one on the main to get a reading then keep doing this for all your breakers , one way to tell if a breaker is bad take it off the main panal put the meter to the screw and copper and see if your getting connuty to it good luck

A circuit breaker can go bad, but usually not in the way that you describe. That's not to say that it can't happen, but just not typical. GTE Sylvania breakers were once popular - I installed quite a few GTE / Sylvania electrical panels in homes in the late 80's. You may have trouble finding replacements; do not put an breaker that "fits" into the panel, unless the breaker is designed for use in the panel you have.

The first thing to do is determine the source of the problem. The breaker will trip, but not indicate if it was the result of a heavy electrical load or a ground fault condition. A 15 amp circuit breaker is designed to carry up to 12 amps continuously. The greater the load, the more quickly it will trip. it may carry a 14.5 amp load for several minutes to an hour before tripping, and a 20 amp load may be carried a second or two. GFI breakers are designed to carry 5 thousandths (.005) of an amp (or 5 milliamps) to ground, or the 12+ amps to neutral before they trip.

The way I would attack the problem is to install a new GFI outlet in front of the old wiring, by "inserting it" between the panel and the other plugs and lights, switches, etc on that circuit. The GFI outlet will provide the same GFI protection that the circuit breaker provided at a fraction of the cost.

Turn off the old GFI breaker, and remove it completely. Install a new, standard (non-GFI) single pole 15 amp circuit breaker in its place. Completely remove from the panel the cable that the old GFI breaker fed. Buy a new electrical outlet box (surface or flush mount as desired) that is large enough and deep enough for a GFI plug and 2 cables (if surface mount, use a 4" square deep box and appropriate cover - or if flush mounting use a deep plastic / fiber single gang box). It will be installed in a place close to the panel, but where the old cable will be able to reach inside. Bring the old cable removed from the panel into the new box. Run a new cable that has the same number and size wires from the panel into the new box, too. Connect the circuit neutral and circuit ground to the neutral and ground bars in the panel (they are probably the same bar) and the hot wire to the circuit breaker. make sure that the circuit breaker is OFF. Twist the two ground wires together and combine an 8 inch length of bare or green insulated wire with them in a wirenut.

Next, wire a new GFI plug in the new box. Connect the green wire from the wirenut to the green terminal of the GFI outlet.

Connect the plug's LINE terminals to the neutral and hot wires in the cable that you ran from the panel to the outlet box.

Now, connect the GFI plug's LOAD terminals to the neutral and hot wires in the cable that you removed from the panel and reinstalled into the new outlet box.

Secure the GFI outlet into the box and install the cover. Cover the electrical panel.

Power up and test. if the GFI trips, there's a ground fault in the circuit. If the circuit breaker trips, the circuit is overloaded.

Check the thermostats.

Best way would be to clamp an amp-meter on and check draw at time of tripping. If it's been tripping often, that will tend to weaken it. Testing incoming voltage as well to be sure voltage is good is wise as well. If you have low voltage to begin with, that will cause higher amp draw on all circuits.

Rich, This may sound obvious, but either the main breaker is acting normally because the load is near 100 amps, or it's defective. If it seems that the loading conditions have not changed from prior years, then you have probably been close to the 100 amp level before and a small amount of corrosion has occurred over time (accelerated by the heavy loading). The cleanliness and tightness of connections is critical to carrying loads at rated capacity. If you are close to the rated load, then replacing the main will buy you some time (but probably not as much as the original because the bus bar connection to the main is probably slightly corroded too) but it won't solve the problem - you will need to upgrade to a higher amp service. On the other hand, if you can calculate or measure the total load and you aren't near 100 Amps, then you just need to replace the main. One other thought. If you have a significant part of the load that is not 220V, then it you might have a higher load on one phase than the other, and could possibly be remedied by switching phases on some of the branch circuits. You only have to exceed 50 amps on one phase to trip a 100 amp main. Good luck, Al K