Hello my name is Lisa, I've just recently bought a stanley rotator ratchet and three stanley spark-plug socket kit, and I'm using the 13/16 to try to remove an old spark-plug, but I can't seem to get my ratchet to rotate the plug in a counter-clockwise motion to get it removed. I can only go clockwise to tighten it. Is it moving it without my knowing? Is there an extra step needed to be taken to make it go in a different motion? What am I missing? I'm sorry if my question seems very basic or obvious to you, but you're dealing with the extremely tool-illiterate here.

Remove recoil rope assembly. Ensure rope is properly wrapped around. While recoil assembly is removed use ratchet and socket to rotate fly wheel, remove spark plug first, observe compression and exhaust at spark plug whole during rotation of fly wheel. Clean or replace spark plug. Ensure oil is full. 30w. Set spark plug gap. Always use Stabile in gas. Replace coil rope is required. Purchased by the foot at any mower repair store.

the only specialty tool your should need is a spark plug socket and an extension for the ratcheting wrench.

Other than that, metric wrenches and sockets should work just great.

The problem with changing some motorcycle spark plugs is getting a socket to them--once you're able to slip a socket on the plugs, you can usually get an extension into it and a ratchet onto that. However, if you can't get at your spark plugs with a deep socket and regular extension, you might want to get a so-called "wobble extension" that lets you pivot something like 10-15 degrees while still having a solid connection to socket and to ratchet. I have used my 3" wobble extension quite a bit when dealing with motorcycle spark plugs that are deeply recessed. That set-up usually lets me get the socket and extension into the spark plug well in one piece, rather than dropping in a socket and fishing around with an extension to connect it up.

Pull the plug boot. carefully lower a 5/8 plug socket into the hole, followed by a very short extension. Then rotate until it drops around the hex and attach a ratchet. Loosen it up, then take the ratchet off, then the extension, then use a pair of needle nose pliers to extract the plug along with the socket. This is how to do it without removing the gas tank and without any special tools. This method will work - it's a pain changing the plugs in these bikes. Hope this helped.

Tools Required or used to assist:

-1/4" ratchet
-1/2" ratchet
-Long extension
-Short extension
-3/4" (I believe, the normal sized one, not the huge one) spark plug socket
-Needle Nose pliers
-Flat head screw driver
-Adjustable pliers
-8mm socket
-10mm socket
-12mm socket
-#5 Hex Wrench
-12mm wrench with closed end on one side
-Spark plug gap tool with wire gap checker
-Flashlight
1. Buy replacement spark plugs. I bought Bosch Platinum+2 plugs for about $4/apiece from an online parts store, but from what I've read, the Platinum+4 are much better. They provide much more complete ignition and offer a noticeable improvement in mileage. One anecdote I heard was a friend of a friend who went from 20mpg to 24mpg on his BMW 3-series. The platinum+4 are only $1 more, so the possible performance improvement is well worth it.


2. Get your tools.


3. Remove the engine vanity cover by removing the three bolts near the base (front) of the engine. You'll need a hex wrench to get these out. See the picture below for location. Once the screws are out, rotate the lexus logo 90? and the cover should come off pretty easily.


4. Practice removing one of the easier spark plugs in the front.


5. First, disconnect the electrical connector from the spark plug tube head by pressing the end with your thumb and using a flat-head screwdriver to pry the connector off. Remove the spark plug tube screw using a socket wrench or equivalent. The tube should now slide out. See the picture below for reference. That was practice, now put it back in and replace the screw holding it in place.


6. Clean the area around each spark plug tube using a hand towel, pressurized air canister, or both. This includes the spark plugs behind the intake manifold. This will be tough because you will have to work by hand, but it is important.


7. Start by removing the most difficult spark plugs - in this case, the back ones. It is better to do the easy ones last, in case - for some reason - you give up or can't get the back plugs out. The back plugs are located behind the intake manifold (see picture below). You'll have to get to them through the opening indicated by the '''blue arrow. You can make this more accessible by removing what I think is the cruise control bracket. Loosen the nut indicated by the '''yellow arrow and remove the bolt indicated by the '''red arrow. Warning: these might be very tight.'''''''''


8. Repeat step 5 starting with the rear right spark plug (rear right when facing the front of the car), followed by the rear center, then rear left. When removing the spark plug, be sure not to let any dirt or debris fall into the engine. It could cause sever damage. The best thing to do is to remove the old spark plug, briefly inspect it, and immediately begin installing the new spark plug.

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the spark plugs are located under the coil packs, you will need to unplug 1 of the coil wire connections, and then use a 1/4 " ratchet, or 3/8" ratchet and a 10 milimeter socket to remove the nut that holds down the coil pack to the engine, once the nut is removed, then grasp the upper end of the plug wire that goe's down into the head, turn it back and forth to loosen it up, and then pull this out and you can then use a 3/8 "ratchet, and a extenstion, with a 5/8 socket to remove the spark plugs, plugs should be removed when the engine is cold, not hot, because it is easy to strip the plugs threads in the head when the engine is hot, so again, change them only when engine is cold, hope that this information has helped you.

Hello,

My name is Chris. I have 20 years acura experience.

If you have some technical experience changing spark plugs before you can it on these.

procedure:

remove spark plug coil packs on top of valve covers. 8mm socket and ratchet.
twist coil packs and remove from cover/plug. use 6 inch 3/8 extention and 5/8 plug socket and ratchet...remove plugs from tube in valve cover. Use NGK plugs!!!!! or Nipondenso plugs only!!!! Nothing else.... trust me on this one.

However, I think your problem is more than just plugs. you need to explain what sound your are experiencing... please be detailed. when does it happen and how? does it have a check engine light?
does it run rough when you coast only?
Thanks.

There is 6 plugs on your engine. The 3 in the front you should be able to get with a spark plug socket,extension- and rachet. Once you take car of those three you have to rotate the engine forward to reach the rear three. then you have to rotate the engine forward
To rotate the engine forward you have to:

1: block the wheels and place the car in neautral, then disconect the negative battery cable.
2: disconnect the air intake duct.
3: remove the torque strut to engine bracket bolts, and swing the struts aside. place the bolt back inside the passenger side bracket.
4: using a pry bar in the passenger side bracket, rotate the engine forward and secure it in this position, to secure the engine in the forward position it will require connecting a rachet strap to the engine and to the frame or radiator support.
5: reverse the procedure when you have completed the task. put the car back in park and torque the strut to engine bracket bolts to 35ft-lbs

When you have the engine rotated forward it will be much easier to access the rear 3 plugs. to find the plugs once you have the engine rotated all you have to do is follow the plug wires to each of them.
make sure you remove the wires and replace the plugs one at a time so you dont mess up the firing order.

Hi,

you need a 6 inch extension, short 3/8 ratchet, 5/8 plug socket, 3/8 swivel "u" joint, (sold at sears) 8mm 1/4 drive socket deep well and 1/4 inch ratchet.

find the coil packs (6 total, three in each head.)
remove the two retaining nuts holding each coil pack using 1/4 8mm socket and ratchet.
twist the pack to break the sticking boot below.
pull up (be careful to not rip the boots however it may still happen but rare.)
remove coil packs, the rear is a little more difficult with the intake.
use 6" extension and u joint and ratchet to remove plugs and replace.
reverse order to assemble. Good luck, and hoped this helped.

you need to put a ratchet ******** the front of the engine and remove the dog bone engine mount this will allow the engine to be pulled forward with strap and you can reach behind and remove the plugs or you can get them from underneath the van hand tightened with a spark plug socket and wrench if you overtighten they will break