Porter Cable c2006 type 4 ari compressor contiuely runs. No leaks, never gets to 150 shut off pressure. Is it pistons or gaskets? Is there a way to tell by looking at parts if they are worn or not?

it has 2 gauges , one for tank pressure and the other is the regulator output. tank pressure is on left. The pop off is starting to release because is worn and should be replaced. if unit is only making 30 pounds on tank gauge you have other problems . If that is true personally i would replace it.

https://www.ereplacementparts.com/porter-cable-c2006-type-compressor-parts-c-129_1662_16249.html

ASSUMING THIS IS AN ELECTRIC MOTOR DRIVEN SINGLE STAGE COMPRESSOR, IF THE COMPRESSOR USES OIL IN THE CRANKCASE, THE PRESSURE SWITCH SHOULD CUT OFF AT 125 PSI AS THE ACT OF COMPRESSION HEATS THE AIR QUITE HOT. THERE IS ALWAYS SOME OIL THAT PASSED THE PISTON RINGS IN THE COMPRESSED AIR. IF THE COMPRESSED AIR GETS HOT ENOUGH, THE OIL VAPOR CAN IGNITE AND THE FLAME CAN CARRY TO THE TANK FOR AN IMPRESSIVE EXPLOSION. THIS ORDINARILY DOES NOT HAPPEN BELOW 175PSI OR MORE.

OILLESS COMPRESSORS CAN BE SET TO 150 PSI. WITH EITHER TYPE OF COMPRESSOR, THE HOSE SHOULD BE ATTACHED TO THE REGULATOR OR THE REGULATOR STACK, NEVER TO THE COMPRESSOR, AS THE COMPRESSED AIR LOSES MUCH OF ITS HEAT WHILE IN THE RECEIVER. IF THE WHOLE TANK IS GETTING HOT ENOUGH TO MELT A PROPERLY ATTACHED HOSE, YOU HAVE A DANGEROUS SITUATION, CHECK THE OPERATION OF THE PRESSURE SWITCH, UNLOADER VALVE AND RELIEF VALVE. THE RELIEF VALVE SHOULD OPEN AT NO MORE THAN 150 PSI, THE UNLOADER VALVE OPENS WHEN THE PRESSURE SWITCH SHUTS THE MOTOR OFF, AND SHOULD ONLY HISS FOR A FEW SECONDS AS IT DUMPS THE PRESSURE ONLY IN THE COMPRESSOR AND THE LINE FROM THE COMPRESSOR TO THE TANK INLET CHECK VALVE. IF THE UNLOADER VALVE HISSES MORE THAN A FEW SECONDS, THE TANK INLET CHECK VALVE IS LEAKING AND NEEDS TO BE SERVICED, CLEANED OR REPLACED. IF THERE IS CARBON BUILD UP IN THE VALVE, THERE IS EXCESS OIL PASSING THE COMPRESSOR PISTON RINGS, REPLACING THEM MIGHT FIX THAT IF THE CYLINDER OR RING LANDS ON THE PISTON ARE NOT TOO TAPERED OR WORN.

your piston compressor is weak.can also be due to the filter inlet not good.

Hi

Here are a few things to check, you may have already checked some of these.

*Electricity...Compressors will run best with full 115Vot 15AMP/Or 220V electrical supply from a circuit, over the shortest electrical cord as possible.

*Air Leaks..Place your ear close to the compressor and listen for air leaking, if you hear air that is not normal and means you have to locate and repair whatever it is that is leaking.
*Check the air unloader valve... The air unloader valve will blown out air when you turned off the compressor, that is normal.
But it should not have air leaking out of it all of the time. If so then it is faulty and in need of repair/replacement.
*Valves...If either the intake or exaust valves fail, breaks, or fails to seat, then your compressor will run 24 hours a day and never build up to the correct pressure for shut-off.
*Gaskets...Check to see if your gaskets have failed.
You could have a gasket failure between the pistons and you will never know it because it shows no external air leak.
If this situation happens then the air will only cycle between cylinders and never build up the correct air pressure.
One way to check the gasket is remove the air filter, then put your hand over the intake.
If correct then it will **** you hand against the intake.
If the valve or valves have failed then you will feel the air sucking in and blowing out.
*Piston Rings and Cylinder...The piston rings could be stuck,broken, or worn and not allowing the correct pressure to build up in your tank.
A worn cylinder will also contribute to the problem of pressure build-up.
*Pressure Switch...Check for air leaks at the pressure switch, it has a rubber diaphram that can fail and leak air out of the system.
Please take time to rate me
Bud

If it is building up to the full rated pressure and there are no air leaks in the hoses then it is most likely the pressure switch. It is item 111 in this parts diagram.

Porter Cable C2002 diagram

Hi thadlewis....

Here are a few things to check, you may have already checked some of these.

Electricity...Compressors will run best with full 115Vot 15AMP/Or 220V electrical supply from a circuit, over the shortest electrical cord as possible.

Air Leaks..Place your ear close to the compressor and listen for air leaking, if you hear air that is not normal and means you have to locate and repair whatever it is that is leaking.
Check the air unloader valve... The air unloader valve will blown out air when you turned off the compressor, that is normal.
But it should not have air leaking out of it all of the time. If so then it is faulty and in need of repair/replacement.

Valves...If either the intake or exaust valves fail, breaks, or fails to seat, then your compressor will run 24 hours a day and never build up to the correct pressure for shut-off.

Gaskets...Check to see if your gaskets have failed.
You could have a gasket failure between the pistons and you will never know it because it shows no external air leak.
If this situation happens then the air will only cycle between cylinders and never build up the correct air pressure.
One way to check the gasket is remove the air filter, then put your hand over the intake.
If correct then it will **** you hand against the intake.
If the valve or valves have failed then you will feel the air sucking in and blowing out.

Piston Rings and Cylinder...The piston rings could be stuck,broken, or worn and not allowing the correct pressure to build up in your tank.
A worn cylinder will also contribute to the problem of pressure build-up.

Pressure Switch...Check for air leaks at the pressure switch, it has a rubber diaphram that can fail and leak air out of the system.
Please take time to rate me

The compressor has a max psi setting of 150.If the pressure is not reaching this or is only stabilizing at a low pressure you have an air leak around a gasket somewhere.If it is reaching 150psi and not shutting off your pressure switch is bad.Replace it.Check your owner's manual for a part number or go to www.factoryauthorizedoutlet.com to find the part.

if there are no leaks piston rings are probably wore out or stuck in compressor

This sounds like the piston ring is worn out and will not allow the unit to pump up to it's shut off pressure.

You can order the D30324 cylinder/ring kit and it should repair your problem.

You can order this at www.allpartsinc.com or go to www.msservice.net

Sounds like the same problem. My compressor would run and pressurize to 125# but no air out the outlet. Turning the pressure reguator knob did nothing. If this is the same then here is my fix which worked great. Before you start bear in mind a new reg is under $20. Make sure the compressor has no air in it. Remove the regulator. Take a needle nose and remove the plastic insert gently from the bottom and inside of the reg. Take out the pressure spring. You should see a threaded shaft and a "c" clip. If there is no washer on the end then what is taking place is when you turn the knob in for more pressure it simply goes down through the center of the spring and exerts no pressure on the plastic insert which applies pressure to the valve. Thus no pressure. I simply removed the "c" clip, placed a generic washer placed on the end. The hole of the washer should allow it to sit on the end of the threaded end without going down the shaft and center protruding an 1/8" or so. Naturally the washer should easily fit inside the regulator housing. Now slip the "c" clip back on, back it out the knob all the way( don't force) and reassemble. Have no idea what is suppose to be in there from the factory but the problem was when I took mine apart there was nothing pushing on the spring which pushes on the nylon plastic insert which regulates the air at the outlet. Good Luck Bob F.