Hi.
first thing. do not panic......
jumping and stalling after storage is almost normal. most of my bike will do the same, the oil and the pressure on the clutch does tend to stick the plates together slightly.
all i usually do is put the bike into a high gear (with the ignition OFF), pull the clutch in and rock the bike back and forth a few times. the engine may turn once or twice, but it will usually free off. there may still be a little bit of drag on the clutch for a few miles but this will usually clear up.
lack of power after storage is usally due to stale petrol. drain the pertol and replace with fresh.
if the bike was running ok when it was put into storage, then there is no real reason why it should not run fine now.
the problem you have now is quite simple, and i will admit that i have done exactly the same thing myself when changing clutches.
when you took the springs off the cover and removed the cover, you may have noticed that the outside of the "basket" it toothed, and the inside edge of the cluth cover has the same teeth.
when you put the cover back on, these teeth must line up and interlock for the cover to move freely. there is usually only 1 correct position for these teeth to line up, AND for the spring holes to line up as well. if there are 4 springs on the clutch, then the cover can appear to fit in 4 positions,but the teeth will not line up, and the cover will lock itself to the outer edge of the basket instead of sliding over it on the teeth.
if you look carefully, you can usually find an arrow, or a line on the cover, and a matching mark on the basket that will line up for the correct position.
if you cannot see a mark, then place the cover in each of the positions that the springs line up correctly, and on one of these positions the teeth will also mesh correctly and the cover will probably slide on another 5-6mm. this will be the correct position.
i have made this exact mistake a few times in the past and know how easy it is to do, and how frustrating it can be (and how worrying).
just reallign the cover, put fresh petrol in the tank, and after a few miles to blow out all the dust, you should be fine.
please feel free to ask for more advice if there are any more problems.
good luck
hope this helps
I had a Tri Z, and every time it sat the clutch stuck. I'm not exactly sure why your clutch won't disengage when you tighten the springs-I do know that the springs MUST be tightened to where the bolts bottom out for it to work. I do also suspect that running it with the springs loose has burned what was left of the clutch. The basket and inner hub grooved could be an issue. It would depend on how bad it's notched. They will normally operate fine with some notching. Filing down the basket is not recommended-you would have to take the exact same amount of material off each finger of the basket for it to work properly. I've done this only to get it running while waiting for a new basket and drive hub to arrive.
The main thing now is to get the clutch to disengage w/ the lever. Take the pressure plate off, and watch for the lifter to mave about 1/8" when you pull the lever. If it's not moving, or is too high, remove the lifter, the round ball behind it and the engaging rod out of the hollow clutch shaft. A small magnet tool works well.It may have gotten past the cam on the cable end of the system. With the rod out, turn the cable actuating lever back to the end of it's slack and reinstall the rod,ball and lifter. You should be able to turn the cable actuating rod with your fingers and watch the lifter come up. You can feel when the rod is in the right position on the cable arm-it should bottom out and lift within the working rotation of the lever. So if you get that working, put what's left of the clutch back together, tighten the springs and make sure it works.You will at the very least need to replace the friction plates in the clutch. The steels should be checked for warpage on a flat surface. If you can get .002 feeler gauge under the warp it's too far gone and they should be replaced as well. Most Yamaha clutches have a first and last friction plate that's a different part number when you order them, be sure to check that when replacing the plates.I'd get new springs as well, they're cheap. Good luck!
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Ok, I will try this in the morn. But what I dont understand is when I have pressure plate off and I detach the clutch cable from the push lever. I can see the push rod with screw head go in and out w ease and nothing holding it. Until I put the pressure plate on and fasten all the springs down tightly. It is so hard to push I tried pushing it w my rubber end of my hammer and it would not move that pressure plate. So I stopped before I bent anything or damage something. But I do understand what you are saying about the push lever pushes the 1st push rod to a steal ball to the 2nd push rod that attaches to the pressure plate. Now the 2nd push rod that attaches to the pressure plate has a phillips head on it along with a nut and lock washer. Am I supposed to adjust the pressure plate to some depth from the clutch plates/basket? So when the pressure plate works properly it should move how much away from the clutch plates/basket? I was told to slightly take some sand paper and rough up the fiber clutches and metal plates between them before I install them used? Also when its apart and rear tires are off ground and side cover plate is off. What should happen when all is well when I spin tires while it is gear and when clutch lever or push lever is used? Do I hold pressure plate or hold clutch basket without it moving with inside gears? A lot of questions but I need to know for sure cuz had this apart 3 times and going on 4 in the morning, thanks Jim.
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