Coming from power source is a black,white, green wire coming from the light is a white, red, green wire coming from the photo is a red, black ,white wire . i need help uncrossing these wires, keep tripping the breaker
Re: 120 volt folorescent light sign with a photocell
Based on what you've written, it should be black to red, white to white, and green to green. If you still have trouble, post a picture so I can have a better look of this photo-cell.
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If this is being used as a socket for a 120-volt lamp (such as a compact fluorescent with self-contained ballast or an incandescent lamp), you wire the black (hot) AC line conductor to the brass-colored screw and the white (neutral) conductor to the silver-colored screw. If the socket is equipped with pigtails instead of screws, use pressure connectors (wirenuts) to connect black to black, white to white.
If you are using HID lamps, you don't wire directly to the AC line. These lamps must be used in a fixture with the correct ballast transformer, capacitor and ignitor (for pulse-start lamps) for the lamp wattage. If you are replacing the socket in such a fixture, follow the wiring of the old one when installing the new socket.
Black is the AC power into the switch, and the others are the switched power leads out. Take a close look at the switch housing and you might see small markings reading L1 and L2 by the red and blue leads.
To wire the switch, use a pressure connector (wire nut) to connect the black lead to the incoming AC power. On a polarized line cord, where the plug has one prong wider than the other, the hot side is the narrow prong. The neutral side, which connects to the white wires from the lamp sockets, is the wide prong, and the cord usually has a ridge molded in.
The red and blue wires go to the sockets. (This kind of switch is usually used in three-socket lamps, so I assume that's what you have.) The red lead should connect to the black wire from one socket, and the blue lead to the black wires from the other two. The usual sequence is power off, L1 (red) on, L2 (blue) on, L1 and L2 on. So as you turn the switch (or press the button in a push switch) you get one light, then two, then all 3 on.
Make sure all your connections are good and tight with UL approved connectors and there are no exposed bare wires, and you should be good to go.
The red wire goes to the R or Rc terminal and the white wire goes to the W terminal. If there is more wires like a yello that goes to Y and there is probably a green this goes to G. There could also be a black and a blue the black would go to C and the blue would go to Y2.
It sounds like you have accidentally by-passed the switch. The switch only needs one power leg to the pull-chain switch and the other 3 wires go on the other wire of the switch. The white wires get connected together as you have done.
Please turn off the power before you make a change.
The proper way to wire two switches in a 2 gang switch box to control each light separately is as follows:
Make sure you have the power turned off at the breaker for this box.
Take the HOT (common, black wire) FEED wire and add (2) pieces of black wires to it with a wire nut.
Now you can put one of each of these black wires to the bottom screw of each light switch to provide power to both switches separately
Connect each separate wire to the (2) different lights to the top screw of each switch.
Twist all the bare ground wires together, leaving at least 7-8 inches at the ends untwisted for at least 2-3 of these wires.
Take (2) of these ground wires and connect them to the ground screws on each separate switch. If it is a metal box these area in, connect one ground wire to the box with a green grounding screw also, if not, cut off the extra ground lead near the twisted bunch.
Now twist all white (netural) wires together and install them all under one wire nut.
Make sure the bare wires are not near or touching the HOT screws and fasten the switches to the box.
You now have an approved and legal wiring for (2) separate light switches using the one power source (FEED) already in the box.
i have a light fixture with two single pin T96 bulbs, black and white wire go to one end of the fixture, two red wires come out of other end - one wire on each socket, but a have a ballast with two blue wires and a red wire coming out the same end of ballast, how do i wire this up? thanks Charlie
Some one missed the wiring diagram. I believe its like this: L1 = Line 1 = (Hot all are same thing) Black Hi Blue Med Red LO Now usually the black is for AC and connects to a normally Open (NO) contact on the blower relay. The heater speed (either red or blue) go the the normally Closed (NC) on the blower relay and on one side of this wire or contact on the relay it goes to the heating blower thermostat on the furnace. The remaining wire (blue or red) you tape off. L1 also feeds the Run Capacitor on 1 side and the Brown wire feeds the opposite side
The white wire is Neutral and goes to the neutral on the main line.
If this helps you please rate me accordingly and good luck.
you should have 24 volts between yellow and white wires at the stat when the stat is set to heat and set as hot as it will go. burners should light first then 3 to 5 minutes later the fan motor should fire up. if burner doesn't light check the wires going into the top of the gas valve see if you have 24 volts arriving there from the stat. if you do then the gasvalve is probably bad. you can bypass the action of the stat by jumping red to white on 90 percent of the stats made and in a few seconds the gas valve should click open gas flow to main burner where pilot ignites it. another easy check you can do is flip stat fan switch to on. fan should come on at once. if not then you have either no high voltage to unit or no low voltage ( as in a bad transformer). if the fan comes on you know you have high volts and low volts...by cover i assume you mean the decorative cover but there second cover with the mercury bulbs and all is still there. if you have only the bare subbase then new stat time. sounds like an old furnace if it has a standing pilot, it should be checked for cracked heat exchanger by a pro with a n electronic carbon monoxide detector. NOT a diy item due to the real danger of co poisoning.