Model: MH125kt Ignition transformer arched to ground. Replaced Ignition transformer. The red light flashes that the reset button is the problem. Bypassed reset button. Red light still says that the problem is the reset button. Is the circuit board at fault that it will not do anything?

Question edited for clarity, typos and words that are incorrect 'automator' to 'alternator'.
Question moved to model category.

Put a battery charger on it for at least 8 hours on 6 amp charge. Make sure the battery ground has a good contact using a digital multimeter. After 8 hours, start the car and run it.

Next day, try and start again. If the battery is flat, you have parasitic draw.

https://www.fixya.com/cars/r29903527-parasitic_draw_car_batteries

One further thought, does this old vehicle have a security system and engine immobilizer? Do you have a steady or flashing red light anywhere. You may be locked out of starting the engine because you disconnected the battery. In fact Goggle says it does have anti-theft.

1995 f150 theft light flashing, cannot start!

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It's easier than you might think. In most cases, the anti-theft system on a Ford F-150 can be reset by turning the vehicle to "accessory" mode and leaving the key in the ignition for several minutes until the anti-theft light shuts off.

Feb 10, 2021

Ford F-150: Resetting the Anti-Theft System - VehicleHistory

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Hi, I recommend you access the OBD panel to extract the trouble codes. Then send us the trouble codes for further advice. On 850 models the DLC is located in the engine compartment in front of the module box, behind the passenger side headlamp.

1. Open diagnostic socket cover and install selector cable into socket No. 2 for fuel injection codes or socket No. 6 (except Motronic systems) for ignition codes.
2. Turn the ignition switch to the ON position.
3. Enter control system 1 by pressing the button once. Hold the button for at least 1 second, but not more than 3.
4. Watch the diode light and count the number of flashes in the 3 flash series indicating a fault code. The flash series are separated by 3 second intervals. Note fault codes.

1f there are no fault codes in the diagnostic unit, the diode will flash 1-1-1 and the fuel system is operating correctly.

1. If diode light does not flash when button is pressed, or no code is flashed there is a problem with the soft-diagnostic system, proceed as follows:
   1. Check ground connections on the intake manifold, and the ground connection for the Lambda-sond at the right front mudguard.
   2. Check the fuses for the pump relay and the primary pump. On 240 models, fuses are located inside the engine compartment on the left side wheel well housing. On 760/780 models, fuses are located in the center console, just below the radio. On 740/940 models, fuses are located behind the ashtray. Access can be gained by removing the ashtray, and pressing upward on the tab marked electrical fuses press. On 850 models, the fuses are located on the left side of the engine compartment behind the strut mount plate. The fuses on 960 models are located on the far left side of the dashboard. The driver's door must be open to gain access to the fuses.
   3. Remove glove compartment, and check control unit ground connections.
   4. Turn the ignition switch to the OFF position. Remove control unit connector and connector protective sleeve.
   5. Check diagnostic socket by connecting a voltmeter between ground and No. 4 connection on the control unit connector. Reading should be 12 volts. If no voltage is present, check lead between control unit connector and fuse No. 1 in the fuse/relay box.
   6. Turn the ignition to the ON position, and install selector cable into the No. 2 socket on the diagnostic socket. Connect a voltmeter between ground and No. 12 connection on the control unit connector. Reading should be 12 volts. Press the button on diagnostic socket and note reading. Reading on the voltmeter should be 0 volts. If no voltage at the control unit is present, take reading at the diagnostic socket connector. If reading remains at 12 volts when button is pressed, check diagnostic socket.
   7. Connect a voltmeter between ground and the red/black lead on the diagnostic socket connector. Reading should be 12 volts.
   8. Connect a suitable ohmmeter between ground and the brown/black lead in the diagnostic socket connector. Reading should be 0 ohms.
   9. Turn the ignition to the OFF position. Connect ohmmeter between diagnostic socket selector cable and the pin under selector button. The ohmmeter should read infinity. Press the button and note the reading. The reading should be 0 ohms.
   10. Connect a suitable diode/multimeter tester, or equivalent, between the diagnostic socket diode light and the selector cable. Connect red test pin from the tester to pin under diode light and black test pin from tester to selector cable. A reading on the tester indicates correct diode light function. With no reading on tester, replace diagnostic socket.
   11. Check the system relay/primary relay by connecting a voltmeter between ground and the No. 9 connection on the control unit connector, then connect a jumper wire between ground and No. 21 connection on the control unit connector. The relay should activate and the reading should be 12 volts.
   
   
2. Press the diagnostic socket button. Note any additional fault codes.

The diagnostic system memory is full when it contains 3 fault codes. Until those codes are corrected and the memory erased, the system cannot give information on any other problems.

1. Press the diagnostic socket button for the third time to see if a third fault code is stored in the memory. If the diode light flashes the same code 1-1-1, there are no other codes in the memory.

Fig. Fig. 1: Push button once for mode 1
Push button twice for mode 2

Push button three times for mode 3

To clear the codes:

1. Turn the ignition switch to the ON position.
2. Read fault codes.
3. Press diagnostic socket button 1 time and hold for approximately 5 seconds. Release button. After 3 seconds the diode light should light up. While the light is still lit, press the button again and hold for approximately 5 seconds. After releasing the button, the diode light should go off.
4. To ensure that the memory is erased, press the button 1 time, for 1 second but not more than 3 seconds. The diode light should flash code 1-1-1.
5. Start and run engine. If engine will not start, correct the problem before proceeding and start over with Step 1.
6. Check to see if new fault codes have been stored in the memory by pressing the diagnostic socket button 1 time, for 1 second but not more than 3 seconds.
7. If fault code 1-1-1 flashes, it indicates that there are no additional fault codes stored in its memory.

There are many things to check. The single most important test is for 24V at the gas valve after the ignitor is supposed tp be on. 19 V or less and there is either a bad ground or the ingition control board has failed. (Wire ground problems are a high probablilty)

Here is what the book says:

PROBLEM #1 - HOT SURFACE IGNITOR DOES NOT GLOW RED

(Remember to wait for purge time, 17/34 seconds, on models so equipped).

Possible causes

A. No main power

B. Faulty transformer

C. Faulty thermostat

D. Faulty limit switch

E. Faulty blower interlock switch

F. Faulty hot surface ignitor

G. Faulty ignition control

Solution

Step #1

Perform normal system checks of main power, transformer, thermostat, limit

switch, blower interlock switch, and replace faulty component.

Step #2

With power on and thermostat set at its highest position, check voltage

between "TH" and "TR" on HS780 ignition control. If 24 volts is not present

check output at transformer. If no, replace transformer. If transformer

checks out OK look at other controls in the 24 volt circuit I.E.: thermostat,

limit switch, blower interlock switch. Check for 120 volts between "neut"

(L2) and "120" (L1). Check for 120 volts at the ignitor across "IGN" and

"IGN" terminals on the HS780 ignition module. If 120 volts is present,
replace ignitor. If no, replace the 780 series module

PROBLEM #2 - IGNITOR GLOWS RED BUT MAIN BURNER

WOULDN'T LIGHT

Possible causes

A. Improper ignitor alignment

B. Faulty ignition control

C. Faulty gas valve

D. High inlet gas pressure

E. Polarity reversed

F. No earth ground

Solution

Step #1

Check for availability of gas at gas valve. Make sure the manual valve

upstream of the gas valve and the gas valve are in the full on position. Also

make sure gas is being supplied to the system at the proper pressure, too

high will lock-up the valve.

Step #2

Check proper polarity of "NEUT" and "120" on the ignition control by reversing

the wires, if reversed gas valve will not open. If this does not solve the

problem, replace wires as they were.

Step #3

Check for proper ignitor position.

Step #4

Check for a good earth ground by using a meter connected between L1

and furnace chassis. Should read 120 volts, if no, check and/or repair ignition
ground wire or ignition control mounting screws.
CAUTION POLARITY MUST BE OBSERVED

Step #5

Check for 24 volts at the gas valve terminals; "1" and "2" on a 7200 series,

"M" and "C" on a 7100 series, "TH" and "TR" on a 7000 series. If yes,

check wire integrity or change the gas valve. If no, change the 780 series
ignition module.

That is pretty much all of the troubleshooting required.

Thanks for choosing FixYa,
Kelly

REMOVE THE FUSE COVER ON LEFT DRIVER SIDE OF DASH.INSIDE FUSE BOX IS A RED RESET BUTTON.TO RESET OIL CHANGE LIGHT.TURN ON THE IGNITION SWITCH WITH ENGINE NOT RUNNING.WITH IGNITION SWITCH ON POSITION,PRESS THE RED RESET BUTTON.WHEN THE CHANGE OIL LIGHT STARTS TO FLASH ,PRESS AND HOLD RESET BUTTON AGAIN.THE RESET IS COMPLETE WHEN YOU HEAR THE CHIMES AND THE CHANGE OIL LIGHT GOES OUT.

High Limit Switch, look for a bimetal disc somewhere near the elements and apparently this is a manual reset. Should be red button in between two wires on a flat round disc.

Always turn power off when attempting electrical

The yellow or red light would mean a control board that is bad or going bad. The buzzing sound could just be the transformer not uncommon to hear a buzzing sound from the transformer.

The procedure you used is for the 2006 > Vue, and will not work on your 2003. For the 2002-2005 Saturn Vue V4 or V6 - Under the hood you will see a black fuse box behind the battery. Open it up and you will see a red button, it is small and looks like a fuse but on the top it will say Oil-Res. Turn on the ignition & press and hold that button for about 10 seconds. You may want to have a friend sit in the driver's seat and watch for the indicator to start flashing, which indicates you've activated the reset. Turn off the ignition and that will reset the Oil light.

How to reset (erase the light):
Open the fuse access panel on the driver side. Youll see a small rectangular red button labeled RESET.
Turn ignition ON
Press the RESET button repeatedly until you see the SERVICE ENGIN light flashing on the dash.
Press and hold the RESET button for a few seconds until you hear 5 'dings'. It will turn off.
Turn ignition OFF.
Drive safely.
Good luck.
Please rate the solution....

I would check the brake pads first to see if they are worn badly, spent a lot time once learning that will cause ABS lights to flash!
Grounding the middle pin on the ABS diagnostic plug , turn on the ignition and mash both brakes to see if the bulb checker light goes out! Very important, left out of procedure on IBMWR, if the red bulb checker light doesn't go out you have a blown tail light or stop light bulb and the ABS won't reset!
Or you have a bad bulb checker module underneath the seat. If the red light goes out then the ABS lights should go to flashing then push the ABS reset button and hold for slow count of 10 or so. Release and try it. Hope this helps!

Might be a bad tube or flyback transformer. Best thing to do is take the back off, turn down the lights, and stand behind it while someone turns it on. you may see one of the tubes arching or the flyback itself. Let me know if this helps or if you need more info.

Tim Nolan