How to cut the flashlight on - Vivitar DVR 850W Flash Media Camcorder

Sounds like the new photocell is bad or you don't have the right one

If the flashlight was working properly before you changed batteries, it's most likely that some tolerance is off by just a smidge so that you're not getting quite the right contact to close the circuit. You can make a thin wafer out of aluminum foil that's folded over and over onto itself and use that as a shim to increase pressure on the battery cartridge. That may be all you need.

If there is a switch on this light, as opposed to a simple screw on/screw off pressure connection, I would try checking continuity in the switch to make sure that is working correctly. Many manufacturers cut corners on the fit and construction of their flashlight swtiches, so a part can go out of alignment quickly and easily, causing failure of the switch until you can nudge those parts back in line.

Good luck!

Check your power outlet for any loose contacts. Look for any loose contacts in RC jacks/sockets/Cable. Try changing the input device to something you are sure, works such as a DVD player.

Show a torch light (flashlight) on the screen from a safe distance, when program runs. If you can see the picture, the problem is with the backlight and might require the attention of a qualified service technician.

You have a battery a globe and a switch. It really only matters matter if you keep the circuit board(CB). Here's how mine was wired.


Red - Battery pos to switch to bottom of CB (BT+)
Red - top of CB (BU+) to pos contact pivot
Black - neg contact pivot to top of CB (BU-)
Black - bottom to CB (BT-) to battery neg

Or you could just bypass the CB altogether, wire the black to the black, and the red to the red. done.

I cannot find any info either, so lets "figure" it out. Does the "bulb" look like an interchangable (replace-able) bulb - LED's "almost" never need replacing (for the most part) and manufacturers always solder them in. I'll assume that you cannot twist (or un-screw) the bulb.

Now what to do...if you really like this flashlight - you could open it up, un-solder (or cut leads) the LED and put a new one in. The LED to use is:

- one that can handle the voltage - measure voltage (with volt meter) at the burned LED with flashlight on (keep track of polarity, which wire is negative/positive for the new LED),
- you will check for a flat (fish eye magnifier) top surface or round top,
- check for size (diameter) of the LED.

Now match that up to an LED at www.digikey.com They will have higher prices but, you are only buying 1 LED and they have the biggest selection to better match you old LED.

There are lots of new flashlights out there and getting a new one may be a good option.

Yes it is . I have one too and the cut off tool takes more amps than a drill or flashlight or saw. Different tools take up different amperage,so it will vary in the amount of time the battery will last.

unscrew the rear piece to change batterys.

The switch is bad, contact Maglite at www.maglite.com and they will repair it under Warranty.

I know this is an old post but noticed there are 385 people that have viewed the post that like me were searching for a fix to their Craftsman 41993 lighted driver. The fix I found resulted in a better light than the original but being a Craftsman purist I also found a way to fix the original as well even though I put it away and use the new fix. I just wanted the original to work again. I'll start with repairing the original. The usual problem with the original is caused by corrosion from leaky batteries that ends up corroding through the metal strip connecting the + and - ends. I tore apart a new freebie led flashlight from Harbor Freight and used the guts to replace the metal strip and spring that was corroded beyond repair on my light. All it took was a little bending and snipping to make it identical to what my Craftsman had. You will notice the guts of the HF light have a nearly identical metal strip with spring attached. I cleaned the 41993 parts thoroughly & reassembled it using the remaining parts and the new metal strip and spring that I fabricated from the Harbor Freight light. It worked like a charm and my light works like it did when it was new. Now for the best part because my upgrade takes this light to a whole new level. Remove the old light and store it in a safe place. Then get another 3 1/2" Mini Flashlight from Harbor Freight item #69052 for free if you have a coupon since this item is often the freebie given away with any other purchase. I have a half dozen lying around myself so I know this to be fact. Remove the small lanyard and circular clip from the light and toss it since you will no longer need it. Pick up one super thin O-ring from a hardware store that will fit over the end of the flashlight and place it over the end of the light with the push button until it rests in the first groove. I can't give you a size since I sifted through several until I found one that fit snug with a little stretching to get it over the end of the light. Then slide the light into the 41993 and work the o-ring into handle with a small jewelers screwdriver as you gently press the light in place. This doesn't take too much pressure unless you chose a thicker o-ring. You don't absolutely have to use an o-ring but I like the professional appearance of the o-ring and the fact that it serves as a moisture barrier. The new replacement light fits so well that it looks like it was made for the 41993. The plus is that it has 9 LED's and illuminates the 41993 like the sun. Trust me that you will never again use the original once you install the new upgrade. Hope this helps another Craftsman tool junkie like me.

look behind the drier with a flashlight and see if the connecter vent got mashed or folded over when the drier got pushed back also what kind of vent are you using back there if its long cut it short as you need if its folded over on its self that cuts its flow in half