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1995 century 20 amp plasma cutter will trigger and air will activate, but no arc will be produced. If I touch tip to grounded area it wil "spark" but that is all.

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Do you have a manual for this device?

Posted on Jun 09, 2008

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1 Answer

What is the unlock code for Wars & Warriors: Joan of Arc


Cheat mode

Type coronation at the main menu to enable cheat mode. A sound will confirm correct code entry. Press [Shift]+ ~ during game play to display the console window. Then, enter one of the following codes to activate the corresponding cheat function.
EffectCodeGod modeinvincible 1Set unit levelunit_level_up <2-30>Add indicated amount of strength pointsunit_add_str <number>Add indicated amount of dexterity pointsunit_add_dex <number>Add indicated amount of leadership pointsunit_add_lea <number>Add indicated amount of defense pointsunit_add_def <number>Add indicated amount of goldunit_add_gold <number>

Start with 10,000 gold

Type moneylove at the main menu.

Please click here for the Wars And Warriors: Joan Of Arc (PC)

The Site http://www.gamewinners.com will give you more information.

Nov 17, 2013 | PC Desktops

Tip

How to Clean and Disinfect your Keyboard and Mouse


Recent studies have shown that your average desktop Keyboard and Mouse have about 400 times more germs than the average toilet seat and are one of the most germ infected objects in the household.

This is understandable as you are probably touching it after you went to the loo , after you had your lunch , shaked someone's hand , touched a not to clean door handle to get in the room and then there is of coarse always the few drops of coffee and some cigarette ash in there if you smoke.

This combined with little hard to reach places and a relatively light free environment makes an ideal breading ground for germs.

For more info , see this article on the BBC web page. Click Here

So now , we need to clean our keyboards on a regular basis. My keyboard gets a lot of mileage so I have to clean it on a regular basis and learned a few tricks in the process which I will share in this tip.

This tip is only applicable to Desktop or freestanding keyboards and mice. Do not do this on your laptop.

Okay , so there are basically 3 steps.

#1 Clean off Dust and other solid objects.
#2 Clean off stains and other stubborn dirt
#3 Disinfect

You will need
  1. Vacuum Cleaner (not mandatory but recommended)
  2. Compressed air can
  3. Liquid alcohol based disinfectant in spray bottle
  4. Cotton swabs / Q-tips
  5. A clean microfiber cloth

#1 Clean off Dust and other solid objects.

To do this , go out and buy a can of compressed air from your local department store or electronics dealer. Get someone to hold the vacuum cleaner near to where you are working and start blowing compressed air in between the keys of your keyboard.

36ebf9f.jpg

The vacuum will catch most of the debris and make for easier cleanup afterward if your keyboard hasn't gotten attention in a while.



#2 Clean off stains and other stubborn dirt

Now , dip a q-tip in some of your alcohol disinfectant and rub it between your keys to clean the sides of every key.

2391ddd.jpg

Then , take your cloth and dampen a small area with some disinfectant or water and clean the top of the keys and the larger areas between keys. Do the same for your mouse.



#3 Disinfect

Now , use your compressed air at a reasonable distance from your keyboard and while spraying air , spray some disinfectant into the airstream and onto your keyboard. This will ensure that even the spaces between keys are disinfected. Now simply wipe off excess disinfectant from the top of the keyboard with the dry end of your cloth.

Also use some disinfectant on your cloth to wipe down your mouse.

And there you go , one germ free clean keyboard and mouse.

Please remember to rate this tip if you found it useful.

StephanSA


on Feb 23, 2010 | PC Desktops

1 Answer

What is unlock code for Wars & Warriors: Joan of Arc


Cheat mode

Type coronation at the main menu to enable cheat mode. A sound will confirm correct code entry. Press[Shift]+ ~ during game play to display the console window. Then, enter one of the following codes to activate the corresponding cheat function.
EffectCodeGod modeinvincible 1Set unit levelunit_level_up <2-30>Add indicated amount of strength pointsunit_add_str <number>Add indicated amount of dexterity pointsunit_add_dex<number>Add indicated amount of leadership pointsunit_add_lea <number>Add indicated amount of defense pointsunit_add_def <number>Add indicated amount of goldunit_add_gold <number>

Start with 10,000 gold

Type moneylove at the main menu.

Please click here for the Wars And Warriors: Joan Of Arc (PC)

The Site http://www.gamewinners.com will give you more information.

Nov 17, 2013 | PC Desktops

1 Answer

My pc fells to power on


Diagnose.

Suggest start with seeing if the problem is the Power On switch, or the Power Supply.

To do this you bypass the Power On switch.
This has nothing to do with the Power On switch directly, nor it's wires.

Dell Support > Optiplex GX270 > Service Manual,

http://support.dell.com/support/edocs/systems/opgx270/SM/EN/index.htm

Click on System Board
The connector number 18 - power connector (POWER), is a
20-pin ATX main power cable, connector on the motherboard.

Number 19 for the Small Mini-Tower model motherboard.

A general example of a 20-pin ATX main power cable, and it's respective connector on the motherboard,

http://www.playtool.com/pages/psuconnectors/connectors.html#atxmain20


Observe the photo to the Right.
Note the Green wire, and all of the Black wires.
The Green wire is the Soft Power On wire.
ALL Black wires are Ground wires.

[NOTE*
Even if I am mistaken about the ATX main power cable, and it is a 24-pin ATX main power cable, it still has a Green - Soft Power On wire, and many Black - Ground wires.

Just like the 20-pin ATX main power cable, and it's connector on the motherboard. Scroll the above page down a little more ]

The Green wire is TEMPORARILY jumped to ANY Black wire.

The preferred jumper wire is a straightened out paperclip, bent into a U-shape.
The top of the U is wrapped a few times with black plastic electrical tape. This taped area is for your fingers, and thumb to hold onto.

Turn the U-shaped jumper wire upside down. The 'legs' are what is used.
One 'leg' goes down into a socket hole with the Green wire.
The other 'leg' goes down into a socket hole, with ANY Black wire in it.

ATX main power cable is plugged in, as shown in the photo to the Right.
Where the wires go down into this main power cable's connector, is the BACK of the connector.

The jumper wire goes down into the Back of the connector.
The leg of the jumper wire slides past the insulation, of the existing wire that is already in the socket hole.

The leg of the jumper wire MUST go down into the socket hole, far enough to touch a metal terminal, that is on the end of the wire.

Looking at the middle photo, you are looking at the tips of this style of metal connector, that is on the end of every wire, that goes in the 20-pin ATX main power cable's connector,

http://www.molex.com/molex/products/datasheet.jsp?part=active/0002081202_CRIMP_TERMINALS.xml&channel=Products&Lang=en-US

The left side in the view is the part that crimps around the insulation of the wire, and the part the U-shaped jumper wire touches.
The right side of the view, shows the tip that you see in the socket holes, shown in the middle photo.

There may be a spark when the U-shaped jumper wire touches those metal terminals. (Green wire/Black wire)
You may wish to wear a glove on the hand, that you are using for the jumper wire.

HOWEVER, the Soft Power On circuit uses 5 Volts DC.
In comparison two D cell flashlight batteries store 3 Volts DC.
The glove thing is just to make you feel safer.

The contact made is no more than 2 seconds.
The Power On switch is a Momentary Contact Switch.

IF, the Power Supply comes on you have a bad Power On switch.

IF, the Power Supply does Not come on you have a bad Power Supply.

No if's, buts, or doubt about it.

Post back with your findings in a Comment. Also post what type model it is.
Small Form Factor (SFF)?
Small Desktop?
Small Mini-Tower

The Power Supply case shape is what differs.

You may be able to use this type of Power On switch, if yours is bad. It will be part of the plastic Power On Button assembly.

(After removing the Power On Button assembly, I use warm water, (Almost hot), or a hair dryer, to soften the plastic Power On Button assembly, then replace the Power On switch )

http://www.directron.com/atxswitch.html

Regards,
joecoolvette

Oct 11, 2012 | Dell OptiPlex™ GX270 PC Desktop

1 Answer

How do I bypass the soft power on switch on the friont of the computer


Actually it never depends k_akima

The Green - Soft Power On wire is jumped to ANY Ground wire.

Doesn't matter if it's a 20-pin ATX main power cable, or a 24-pin ATX main power cable.

If the Power Supply is an AT style, and not an ATX style, the question is redundant anyway. AT style doesn't have the Soft Power On feature.

John,
The eMachine EMonster 500a uses a TriGem - Napoli 2A motherboard,

http://www.motherboards.org/mobot/motherboards_d/Trigem/Napoli%2B2A/

The main power cable is a 20-pin ATX main power cable.
General example of power cable, and it's respective connector on the motherboard,

http://www.playtool.com/pages/psuconnectors/connectors.html#atxmain20

In the photo to the right, the Green wire is the Soft Power On wire.
A-N-Y Black wire you see is a -> Ground wire.

The preferred jumper wire is a paperclip straightened out, then bent into a U-shape.

Turn the U-shape upside down. The top is wrapped a few times with black plastic electrical tape. This taped area is for your fingers, and thumb to hold onto.

The 'legs' are what is used. They go down into the socket holes, in the back of the 20-pin ATX main power cable's connector.

The back of the connector is where the wires go in.
Power cable is plugged into motherboard, as shown in the photo to the far right.

One 'leg' of the jumper wire slides right down into the socket hole, with the Green wire.
Slides RIGHT NEXT TO the insulation of the green wire, and touches a metal terminal down in the bottom.

http://www.molex.com/molex/products/datasheet.jsp?part=active/0002081202_CRIMP_TERMINALS.xml&channel=Products&Lang=en-US

The tip of this female metal terminal can be seen in the middle photo.
20 metal terminals, 20 tips seen.

For this reason, the 'leg' of the jumper wire must go down into the socket hole, pretty far.
MUST touch that metal terminal.

The other leg of the jumper wire goes down into a socket hole, with ANY Black wire in it. Again, ALL Black wires are Ground wires.
(Green wire = 5 Volts, or Positive wire.
Black wire = Ground wire, or Negative wire )

The contact made is 2 seconds. The Power On switch is a Momentary Contact Switch.

Power Supply comes on you have a bad Power On switch.
Power Supply does Not come on you have a bad Power Supply.

For additional questions please post in a Comment.
Regards,
joecoolvette


Sources:

1) http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Computer_power_supply

Scroll down to wiring diagram.

2) AT style of main power cables,

http://www.playtool.com/pages/psuconnectors/connectors.html#oldpc

3) Years of experience, my own shop, and my noodle on top.

Aug 06, 2012 | PC Desktops

1 Answer

No power acer s280


Yes. A few.

1) Sometimes we inadvertently bump wires loose, when we are replacing hardware.

The Front of your computer is the Front Panel.
The area of contact pins on the motherboard, that the main wires from the Front Panel go to, is the Front panel header.

Two of these twisted pair of wires are for the Power On switch.
Are they connected tightly to the pins in the Front Panel header?

2) There is a main power wire that comes from the Power Supply, and plugs into the motherboard.

http://www.the620guy.com/images/ebay/2011-11-21/Acer%20AcerPower%20S280%20CelD%203-06GHz%203.JPG

(You can click on the photo to enlarge)

The Black long connector at the top is for a Floppy Drive.
Under it the Blue long connector is for the Harddrive.
Under it is the White long connector for optical drive/s
(CD/DVD drive)

(I may have the blue connector, and black connector, functions reversed. Blue IS supposed to be for the harddrive, usually)

To the left of them, is the whitish long 20-pin ATX main power connector on the motherboard, (20 socket holes), that the 20-pin ATX main power cable plugs into.

General example of a 20-pin ATX main power cable, and it's respective connector on the motherboard,

http://www.playtool.com/pages/psuconnectors/connectors.html#atxmain20

In the middle photo observe the whitish connector. Looking close observe the Lock on the side.
Viewing the photo to the left, observe the Tab on the motherboard connector.

When the hooked end of the Lock is over the tab, on the motherboard connector, the power cable is plugged in properly.
Is the 20-pin ATX main power cable plugged in correctly?

Everything is chilly?

3) Then it's time to bypass the Power On switch, and see if the problem is the switch, or the Power Supply.
Yes, a Power Supply can go t1ts up all at once.

Bypassing the Power On switch, has nothing directly to do with the switch. No insulation of wires is cut.

Also..........
Your Power Supply converts AC electricity from your home, or business, into LOW DC voltages. The shock hazard is contained inside the metal case of the Power Supply.
You will be dealing with 5 Volts DC.

In comparison two D cell flashlight batteries store 3 Volts DC.

A jumper wire goes down into the BACK, of the 20-pin ATX main power cable's connector.
Plugged in just like the photo to the far right in the Playtool link.
Power Supply plugged into power.

Goes down into the socket hole, RIGHT NEXT TO the existing wire, already in the socket hole.
Right next to the insulation of the wire, and down in the socket hole far enough, that the jumper wire touches a metal terminal.

All the wires going down into the power cable's connector, end in a metal female terminal,

http://www.molex.com/molex/products/datasheet.jsp?part=active/0002081202_CRIMP_TERMINALS.xml&channel=Products&Lang=en-US

You are seeing the tips of the female metal terminals, in the middle photo of the Playtool link. (In the Molex link above, the tube shaped end to the right, is what you are seeing the tip of)

The jumper wire will be touching the crimped side of the metal terminal, as shown to the left in the Molex link. (Terminal is shown un-crimped)

Make SURE the jumper wire touches the metal terminal.

The preferred jumper wire is a straightened out paperclip, and bent into a U-shape. The top of the U, is wrapped a few times with black plastic electrical tape. This taped area is for your fingers, and thumb to hold onto.

U-shaped jumper wire upside down, it has two 'legs'.
It is these 'legs' that go down into the socket holes.

Observe the photo to the far right, in the Playtool link.
The Green wire is the Soft Power On wire. Abbreviated as PS_ON.
One leg of the jumper wire goes down into the socket hole, with this Green wire.

The other leg of the jumper wire goes down into ANY socket hole, that has a Black wire in it.
ALL Black wires are Ground wires.

The contact made is no more than 2 seconds.
(The Power On switch is a Momentary Contact Switch)

IF, the Power Supply comes on, you have a bad Power On switch,

http://www.directron.com/atxswitch.html

IF, the Power Supply does Not come on, you have a bad Power Supply.

For additional questions please post in a Comment.
Regards,
joecoolvette

Jul 23, 2012 | AcerPower S280 PC Desktop

2 Answers

My 5100C Dell Desktop shuts down due to "thermal events". I usually keep a fan next to the CPU on full blast and that seems to help. However, I would like to have a real fix to this problem. ...


Sometimes having a fan next to it doesn't actually help, it can make the fan go faster than it should, and sometimes result in a fire. It would help more to just keep a fan away from it.

Aug 20, 2011 | Dell Dimension 5100 (D51L1) PC Desktop

1 Answer

I can hear my HP slimline tower's fan "racing" as if trying to cool things down. I now have problems with it not starting when I push on button, and can overide the problem by unplugging power chord to...


It is VERY wise to clean out the inside of the computer, on a regular basis as needed.

Air flows from the Front of the computer towards the Back.
The air flow from the fan/s, is what keeps the hardware components inside the computer, at a thermal level that is set for them.

Exceed this thermal level, (Temperature level), and the hardware components will overheat.

If a Processor overheats it will turn off. This is a built-in Fail Safe feature designed to keep the Processor from burning up.
(BIOS turns the Processor off)

A computer case fan used in the Front, pulls air IN through the computer, towards the back of the computer case..
If a computer case fan is used in the Back of the computer case, it pulls air Out of the computer case.

The Power Supply also has a fan, and is located at the back of the computer case. It's fan pulls air through the computer case, and Out of the back of the computer case.

Since in essence you have given me a generic problem, since you have not stated what exact Product Number your HP Pavilion Slimline is, I will have to give you generic information back.

This is info for an HP Pavilion s3200n desktop PC, Adding/Replacing Hardware,

http://h10025.www1.hp.com/ewfrf/wc/documentSubCategory?tmp_rule=50389&tmp_task=useCategory&lc=en&dlc=en&cc=us&lang=en&product=3548658

If your Slimline is not set up like the Pavilion s3200n, please post in a Comment, as to the Product Number.
(For the above, s3200n is the Product Number. {Product Number for an HP computer equates to the Model Number)

The above details, and illustrates how to open the computer case.

[ From Me:
BEFORE you begin;

1) Work on a table
2) Computer unplugged from power
3) Observe Anti-Static Precautions

(Anti-Static Precautions:
Your body carries Static electricity
Static will fry out, {Short Circuit} the delicate hardware components inside a computer

Computer unplugged from power, computer case open, TOUCH the metal frame of the open computer case, to relieve your body of Static.

(Computer unplugged from power you're safe.
TOUCH the metal frame of the open computer case, your computer is safe)

Do Not work on a bed, couch, or DIRECTLY on a carpet floor.
(As in right on the carpet floor)
These are High areas of Static electricity!

Should you get up, and walk away in the middle of working on your computer, upon your return be SURE to Touch the metal frame again]

Computer case open use a can of compressed air for computers. This is readily available at a variety of stores.

For a thick buildup of dust, dirt, etc, suggest you use Q-tips to break the surface of the 'gunk', and then the can of air can remove it.

(You might compare the thick buildup to a thick layer of dry dirt. Once the Q-tip stirs the 'crust' loose, the air can remove it)

The Q-tips come in real handy when cleaning the fans, for one hardware cooling component.

The center of a Fan is the HUB.
The Blades attach to the Hub.
The outside surrounding cage around the fan blades, is the SHROUD.

Q-tips come in real handy when cleaning the crevices, where the Blades attach to the Hub.
Also for wiping across the edges of the Blades, and the hard to get to areas of the Shroud.

Once you wipe across these areas with the Q-tip/s, the can of air can readily remove the 'gunk'.
('Gunk' = Dirt, dust, hair, etc.)

Don't know if you are familiar, with using a can of compressed air for computers.
The can of air comes with a plastic straw.
The straw is inserted into the front of the Nozzle.

There is a plastic lock tab on top of the can used for shipping. Keeps the trigger from being depressed, and emptying out all of the air.
Break this plastic lock tab off.

Use the can of air as if you are a professional paint sprayer.
Start at the top Left corner inside the computer, and spray across to the top Right corner.

When you start squeeze the trigger in all the way.
When you reach the other side, let go of the trigger.

Drop down a space. Spacing is up to you, but I recommend dropping down 1 inch.
Go a across again.

Keep dropping down in rows, and going across until you reach the bottom of the computer case.
If a Fan is used on top of the Processor, pay special attention to it.
Also to the Heatsink used under the fan.

This is a generic example of a Fan/Heatsink combo,

http://www.tigerdirect.com/applications/SearchTools/item-details.asp?EdpNo=1272112&CatId=493

The Fan on top is obvious.
The finned aluminum looking object underneath the fan, is the Heatsink.

[ The Heatsink can be Round in shape, or square.
Basic construction of a Heatsink is a flat plate of metal, with tall, thin fins protruding from it.

The plate of metal absorbs heat, from whatever object it is placed against.
(In this case a Processor)
The tall, thin fins absorb heat from the plate of metal, and radiate the heat away.
With a Fan used in conjunction with a Heatsink, the air flow from the fan helps to carry heat away from the fins]

Come back to the Processor fan, and Heatsink, after you have cleaned down to the bottom of the computer case.

Use the plastic straw to push air through the fins of the Heatsink.
(Push is stated because B-low is a censored word)

Use a Q-tip, or more than one, to clean the crevices in-between the fan blade/s to hub.
Then use air.

When using a can of compressed air on a Processor fan, use Short Bursts.
Squeeze the trigger in all the way, but let go quickly.
The Processor fan, (And all Fans), is only designed to spin so fast.

Spinning it faster than it was designed for, can lead to premature failure of the Fan's bearings.
(I you hear the fan, 'Z-i-i-i-ng, you are spinning it too fast)

The Power Supply case has ventilation holes in it.
The plastic straw is used in these ventilation holes. You won't be able to get the inside of the Power Supply perfectly clean, but every little bit helps.

[Hold onto the plastic straw with one hand, use the other hand to hold the can of air.
The plastic straw can come off, and shoot inside the Power Supply's case, otherwise.
No 'fun' trying to get it out!]

When using the can of compressed air, you are supposed to keep the can in an upright position.
Otherwise some of the Propellant will shoot out also.

R-right!
When doing a good job it is inevitable that you will tilt the can of air.

Also when using the can of air, you will notice after a time, that the air flow seems to slow down.
There may be frost on the nozzle.

Set the can down for around 10 minutes, let the can warm up, then use it again.

Yes, these models have an real bad problem with overheating.
The reason is twofold.

One: The computer case is small, and does not allow a decent air flow inside.
Space may be saved with a small computer case, but the design is 'less than'.
I'd rather have my computer running cool, then overheat from a computer case that is too small.

Two:
The air openings in the front of the computer case, were not very well thought out.
I will reserve any further comment here.
I am a Moderator.

For questions regarding the above, or any further questions, please post in a Comment.

Aug 09, 2010 | PC Desktops

1 Answer

My mac book White super drive seems to be squahed!


If you have it out of the case and are very careful not to touch the laser led it can indeed be saved. The simple way is to remove the 4 to 5 mini screws with a jewlers phillips screwdriver and remove the top cover. Remember not to turn it upside down. Place the cover on a flat hard surface and locate a pizza cutter. Use the pizza cutter to roll over the depressed area until it begins to resume the original contours, making sure to avoid any moving parts if present, and this will stretch and reform the metal back to flat again. Wierd yes, but also effective.

Feb 26, 2010 | PC Desktops

1 Answer

Will not stay "ON"


that clicking is probably arcing from a loose wire somewhere like on a outlet or the hot wire is touching a ground ( metal) somewhere.. you have to disconnect every light and outlet that the fuse is on and one by one reconnect them to find the culprit...Also it is possible for the breaker itself to be bad

May 02, 2009 | PC Desktops

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