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Do you happen to know the make / model of your blender? If you do, you should be able to go to the manufacturer's website and order a replacement "o-ring".
You did not specify a brand or model number of your blender; however, most blender jars will lift off their power base without turning or with only very little turning motion to release them from the base. The blade assembly should NOT come off as you remove the blender jar from the power base.
Were you successful in removing the bottom ring which normally screws on to the bottom of the blender jar from the powerbase?
You should make sure you have properly attached the blade assembly for your brand/model.
The blender blade assembly should be held on to the bottom of the blender jar by the bottom ring which screws on clockwise; most will have a sealing gasket that fits between the blade assembly and the sealing surface of the blender jar to prevent any leakage while in use. It will take much more turning to unscrew the bottom ring to release the blade assembly than it should to release the bottom ring from the powerbase.
Assemble your blender jar and blade assembly and try a dry run by placing on the powerbase, giving a couple of bursts of power, and then seeing if you are able to remove without the blender ring unscrewing.
Make sure you are comfortable with the action required to remove the blender jar from the powerbase before you put in to use.
I am assuming you need the gasket that is part of item 2 and comes with the blade assembly.
Note that it is back ordered and not available until 3/23/2011.
The part number is: 123250-000-000 Do a net search using the part number (images) and you will find other sources.
You can find a Use and Care Guide for your product at the following website. You will need to locate the model number of your crock point. Select Slow_Cookers in the product field; Select your model number and click on Submit.
A pdf file of your Use and care Guide will be provided; note they are scanned files and some are of poor quality.
Model 36400 has a similar control to your model. The Guide provides a table of the time to cook at settings 1 (low), 2 (high) and Auto Shift. Auto Shift starts at the high setting and then decreases to the low setting. The time to cook at Auto shift is in between the time taken at the low and high settings. The low and Auto Shift settings are designed for long cook times at a simmer. On the high setting some foods like soups will come to a boil and may need stirring during cooking.
The crock point has no auto turn off and will keep foods at a simmer when on the low or Auto Shift settings. With some practice you will learn how much time this will take for various foods.
The sure way is to use a tip sensitive digital instant-read thermometer to check the final temperature of the food. Check according the guidance provided by the Partnerships Food Safety Education:
Technically, everything is repairable. The real question is: How much are you willing to spend on repairing an old blender? You should bring it to an appliance repair shop for an estimate, because without actually seeing it - it is going to be anybody's guess as to what is wrong with it based on the info you've provided (it is often difficult to diagnose this stuff by description only as most times methodical testing is required) . It may be a simple, inexpensive fix - or it may "break the bank."
While waiting for your estimate, you should price a new blender. You may find there are some that have more features for less than you paid for the Waring model (or even less than the repair estimate). Once you have the price for repair and the price for a replacement, you can decide which path is best for you.
I hope this help & good luck. Please rate my reply - thanks!
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