How do I pull the front Sprocket inside the primary cover to change the stator

Drain the primary fluid. Remove the outer primary cover. The stator is behind the compensating sprocket in the front of the inner primary. Increase the slack in the clutch cable at the adjuster. Lock the primary drive with the locking tool (may be purchased from Harley or Drag Specialties if you don't have one). Unbolt the primary chain adjuster from the inner primary. Remove the comp nut and nut holding the clutch basket on the trans mainshaft (this nut has right hand threads).Remove the primary drive as an assembly.Remove the rotor. It is held on magnetically. Unplug the voltage regulator from the stator. Remove the 4 bolts holding the stator to the engine case, and throw them away. You will need new stator bolts to install the new stator. Do not reuse the old ones. Remove the stator. Installation is the reverse of removal. Some models also require the removal of the inner primary in order to remove the stator. If this is required, replace all the seals in the inner primary while you have it off. A service manual will be a great help if you do this job yourself. Torque specs are rather high for reinstalling the primary drive, so you may want to consider having a shop do the job. Good luck!

Instructions

1. Replacing the Alternator
   • 1 Remove the drain plug located under the clutch area of the primary chaincase and drain the chaincase lubricant into a catch pan. Remove all mounting bolts from the primary cover and slide the cover from its locating studs. Loosen the primary chain tensioner and inspect it for wear (this is a logical time to replace the tensioner shoe, since you are in the case).
     
   • 2 Lock the primary chain where it enters the bottom of the clutch drum. Remove the engine sprocket nut and slide the compensator/sprocket assembly from the engine sprocket shaft. Slide the reluctor bowl off the engine sprocket shaft. Push the stator plug through the hole into the inner primary case. Remove the stator mounting bolts and slide the stator from its support boss. Remove the stator from the case.
     
   • 3 Slide the new stator onto the support boss and orient it so that the stator wires are closest to the stator plug hole in the case. Install and torque the new stator bolts to factory specification (refer to manufacturer's torque sheet). Do not re-use the old bolts. The bolts come pre-treated with Loctite and are designed for one-time use. Insert the stator plug into the plug hole and snap it into place.
     
   • 4 Slide the reluctor bowl onto the sprocket shaft and bottom it onto the shaft shoulder. Align the splines on the shaft and the compensator/sprocket assembly and slide the assembly into position. Install the engine sprocket nut and torque to factory specification for your model of Harley. Adjust the primary chain tensioner to factory specification.
     
   • 5 Scrape the old primary gasket from the case. Harley Davidson gaskets are produced with a print-o-seal feature that melts and '"cooks" onto the case surface. Insure that all of the old gasket is removed from the machined surfaces. Use caution when scraping the gasket, as the cast-aluminum cases are easily gouged, leading to poor sealing and leaks. Install the fresh gasket onto the locating studs, followed by the primary chaincase cover. Torque the primary cover to the proper torque and in the recommended pattern according to the specification sheet for your model of Harley. Remove the inspection plate and add new chaincase lubricant. Replace the inspection cover gasket and re-install the inspection plate.
     

Disconnect the battery. Drain the primary and remove the outer primay cover. Take the engine sprocket nut off, take the clutch adjuster out of the center of the clutch assembly and remove the mainshaft nut. This nut has LEFT HANDED THREADS. Remove the nut that holds the primary chain adjuster. Take the engine sprocket, clutch assembly, and primary chain off all together. Then, pull the rotor off the engine sprocket. It can be difficult to get off due to the strong magnets in it. Once off, there are four small bolts holding the stator on and two small screws holding the plug into the case. Installation is the reverse of disassembly. Torque the small Torx bolts that hold the stator on to 40 inch pounds. The engine sprocket nut torques to 150-165 foot pounds with one line of Loctite 271 heavy hold thread locker in it. The LEFT HANDED threaded mainshaft nut torques to 60-80 foot pounds with a single line of Loctite in it. You'll need a primary locking bar to keep the engine from turning while applying torque to the engine sprocket nut and the mainshaft nut.

Good Luck
Steve

There's nothing to replacing the regulator. It simply bolts to the frame. The wires from the regulator to the stator plug into the plug on the lower left front of the engine case. The larger longer wires runs back along the frame and up to the positive post of the battery.

There's a bit more to replacing the stator. To replace the stator, disconnect the battery and drain the primary case. Remove the outer primary cover. You'll have to take the engine compensator sprocket nut off and remove the mainshaft nut that holds the clutch assembly on. To get the clutch assembly off, remove the snap ring in the center of the clutch assembly and remove the clutch adjuster. The mainshaft nut is inside the hole in the center of the clutch assembly. The nut has LEFT HANDED THREADS. Take the nut off the primary chain adjuster and take the engine sprocket, primary chain with adjuster, and the clutch assembly off all together. The rotor is on the engine sprocket shaft. It can be difficult to get off because of the magnets inside of it. The rotor has two holes in it. I use two long bolts and put them just into the holes deep enough to hold the rotor by squeezing the ends together. Pull the rotor off. The stator is held on by four small Torx bolts and it has a wire support that is held on by two small sheet metal screws. When you install the new stator, make sure you use thread locker on the threads and torque the bolts to 40 inch pounds of torque. The sprocket shaft nut torques to 150-165 foot pounds of torque. The clutch mainshaft nut (LEFT HANDED THREADS) torques to 60-80 foot pounds. You'll probably need a locking bar or some way to prevent the engine from turning while you torque the nuts.

Good Luck
Steve

You have to drain the primary and take the outer cover off. With that off, you have to take the primary drive including the engine sprocket, primary chain, and clutch assembly out. You may even have to pull the starter and the inner primary depending on which transmission is in the bike. If the front of the inner primary is not wide enough to get the alternator rotor off with the inner primary left on the bike, then you'll have to take it off as well. Once you get the rotor off and the stator exposed, there are four small Torx head bolts that hold it to the engine case and a plastic wire retainer held on by two small screws.

Good Luck
Steve

To change the stator in your alternator, you must first disconnect the battery. Then drain the primary and remove the cover. Take the compensator nut off the sprocket shaft and remove the nut on the primary chain adjuster. Then, remove the circlip that holds the clutch adjuster into the center of the clutch assembly. Remove the mainshaft nut that holds the clutch assembly on. This nut has left-handed threads. Grab the compensator sprocket and the clutch assembly and remove these and the primary chain all at the same time. Behind the sprocket shaft extension is a shim or several shims, remove these and remember where the go. You'll see the rotor. It has two holes in it. Use some long bolts that will go into the holes. Insert the bolts and squeeze them together. Pull the rotor off. It may be difficult to get off as it has very strong magnets in it but it will come off. Behind the rotor is the stator. Remove the four Torx bolts and the two small screws that hold the plug into the case. Remove the stator. Replace the stator and all the rest of the assembly is the reverse of the disassembly. The mainshaft nut (left-handed threads) torques to 60-80 foot pounds. The compensator sprocket nut torques to 150-165 foot pounds. You'll need a locking bar to prevent the engine from turning while applying torque to these nuts. Adjust the primary chain to have 3/4 to 7/8 inch up and down play with the engine cold. Replace the primary cover and add oil. If you are going to attempt to do this job, I'd strongly suggest you purchase a service manual.

Good Luck
Steve

I don't know of anywhere that you can get a diagram on how to change the stator in your ElectraGlide other than a factory service manual. But, all is not lost as it's really not that difficult if you have a few tools. An air wrench or you can trailer it to a tire store and give the guy a couple of dollars to take the compensator nut off, a primary locking bar or something to lock the primary from turning while you tightent the nuts, and a torque wrench capable of 150 foot pounds right hand and 60-80 left handed.

First drain the oil from the primary and disconnect the battery. Remove the left foot board. Remove the outer primary cover. Now remove the large compensator sprocket nut from the engine shaft. Take out the snap ring on the middle of the clutch assembly and remove the plate with the two ears on it. Remove the nut inside the clutch assembly. This nut has the LEFT HANDED THREADS on it. Don't forget. Remove the nut that holds the primary chain adjuster on. Now grab the compensator sprocket and the clutch assembly and lift the chain, sprocket, adjuster and clutch assembly out of the primary and lay on sheet of cardboard or something.

Go back to the engine sprocket and remove the sprocket shaft extension. Notice, there are some shims behind the sprocket shaft extension between it and the alternator rotor, do not lose them or mix them up with a shim that is going to come off later. Now, take two long quarter or five sixteenths bolts and stick them in the two holes on the rotor, not deep just about a quarter inch will do. Squeeze them together and pull the rotor off. Behind the rotor is a shim. It should be 0.090" thick, mark or remember that this shim goes there.

Now, you're down to the stator. There are four small screws that take a Torx wrench to remove and a plastic retainer with two small sheet metal screws holding the rotor and rotor plug in. Remove all these. and work the plug out of the case. Sometimes it's easier to simply cut the wires and push the plug out of the case from the inside.

Now, clean the hole for the plug and place the new stator ring on the engine sprocket shaft, plug wires coming off of the rear of the stator. I usually coat the plug with black RTV sealant to prevent leaks and work the plug into the hole from the inside of the case. Once you get it where it should be, put the small retainer back on using the two small sheet metal screws. Position the stator and install the new screws that came with it. If none came with it, put a drop or two of Locktite 242 blue on each screws and tighten them to 30-40 INCH pounds.

Put the 0.090" shim on, the rotor and the sprocket shaft extension with the other shims behind it on the engine shaft. Pick up the primary drive stuff with the engine sprocket in your right hand and the clutch assembly in your left. Hang the cluch assembly or the sprocket on the approtiate shaft and work the primary chain adjuster on the bolt that it goes on. Slide the sprocket and the clutch assembly to their seats on their respective shafts.

Now you will need a "locking bar" to go between the two sprockets, locking into the teeth of the engine sprocket and the clutch sprocket so that they cannot turn as you tighten everything up. Complete the assembly of the compensator sprocket and put two LINES of Locktite 271 red in the nut. Tighten the nut to 150-165 FOOT pounds of torque. On the mainshaft nut inside the clutch assembly, put one line of Loctite 271 red in the nut and tighten it to 60-80 FOOT pounds of torque LEFT-HANDED THREADS. Replace the two eared plate in the center of the clutch assembly and the snap ring. Replace the primary cover and refill the primary with lubricant. Fill just to the bottom of the spring in the clutch assembly. Do not overfill. Your clutch will drag making it impossible to find neutral with the engine running.

Good luck
steve

First secure the bike on a lift. disconnect battery.remove standard footpeg.Remove standard shifter. Remove all allen head bolts from outer primary cover. Some bolts are longer so keep track of where they go.Two bolts on the primary inspection cover also hold the outer to the inner primary case, so remove the cover.Now remove the outer primary case.The clutch,primary chain,adjuster, and compensating sprocket must be reoved as a single unit.Once you have done this take a rag and grasp the rotor and slide it off of the main engine shaft.Unplug the stator and remove the set screws holding it in place.Reverse procedure to install new stator.

First secure the bike on a lift. disconnect battery.remove standard footpeg.Remove standard shifter. Remove all allen head bolts from outer primary cover. Some bolts are longer so keep track of where they go.Two bolts on the primary inspection cover also hold the outer to the inner primary case, so remove the cover.Now remove the outer primary case.The clutch,primary chain,adjuster, and compensating sprocket must be reoved as a single unit.Once you have done this take a rag and grasp the rotor and slide it off of the main engine shaft.Unplug the stator and remove the set screws holding it in place.Reverse procedure to install new stator.