I replaced the carburetor, spark plug, and put in new gasolone on a Toro Recycler (5 yrs. old) and it still won't start. The ignition is only one year old. Seems like I'm not getting any spark and the fuel is flowing through.

probably need to clean out carby and fuel tank

No adjustment for carb on newer mowers. All mowers now have a low oil cutoff. Ensure oil is full. 30w oil. If any grey is observed vin oil drain all oil. Moisture in oil. Dump old oil out every 2 yrs and refill. Ensure spark pluf is clean and gapped correctly. Ensure air filter is clean. Replace spark plug and air filter each year. Always use Stabile in gas. Spray outside of carb with carb cleaner to ensure proper choke movement.

3 most common possibilities: Most gas mower carburetors have a tiny hole for the fuel to rise into the vacuum venturi throat of the intake. The hole in this riser tube which goes down the center of your float chamber to the area where the fuel sits in the bowl is only about as big as dental floss. Take the tine of a wire brush to clear it of crystallized or varnished gasoline and oxidized pot metal tube crust. When they make stainless carburetors, it will eliminate half of the heart attacks caused by this problem. Additives and condensation that settle out in old gas also can lead to clogging. Another very common problem is shearing the aluminum alignment pin in the top of the crankshaft when the mower whacks a log, root or rock. The inertia splits the alignment pin in half and throws spark timing off. So it backfires or won't run. Also check your spark by grounding the fat end of the sparkplug with a jumper cable to the engine casing, leave it plugged to the wire and pull the cord to see if it is firing. Keep spark away from fuel. Ignition points in some small engines get crusty when sitting in humid conditions. So they have to be filed clean of oxidation for proper contact and sparkplug operation.

3 most common possibilities: Most gas mower carburetors have a tiny hole for the fuel to rise into the vacuum venturi throat of the intake. The hole in this riser tube which goes down the center of your float chamber to the area where the fuel sits in the bowl is only about as big as dental floss. Take the tine of a wire brush to clear it of crystallized or varnished gasoline and oxidized pot metal tube crust. When they make stainless carburetors, it will eliminate half of the heart attacks caused by this problem. Additives and condensation that settle out in old gas also can lead to clogging. Another very common problem is shearing the aluminum alignment pin in the top of the crankshaft when the mower whacks a log, root or rock. The inertia splits the alignment pin in half and throws spark timing off. So it backfires or won't run. Also check your spark by grounding the fat end of the sparkplug with a jumper cable to the engine casing, leave it plugged to the wire and pull the cord to see if it is firing. Keep spark away from fuel. Ignition points in some small engines get crusty when sitting in humid conditions. So they have to be filed clean of oxidation for proper contact and sparkplug operation. Small engines like rich mixtures and starting fluid when they are cold.

Hi steve16092...
You may have MAJOR damage to your motor because of overfilling the oil.
Sometimes you can bend or break a piston rod when the engine is overfilled.
Meanwhile you can check a few other things.
Take your plug out and ground it against the head of the engine with the spark wire attached to it.
You should get a bright blue spark, if not then check your ignition module, it may be faulty.
If you have spark, then try putting a little bit of lighter fluid/or gasoline in the cylinder and reinstall the plug and try to crank it...if it cranks, then you may need to clean/rebuild your carburetor.
Please take time to rate me

27 years of service for an ignition coil is close to amazing. Recent machines using magneto-type ignition systems are doing well if their Chinese-made coils last a couple of seasons.
I'm pretty sure that is what has failed in your Toro and I hope you can get a replacement from really old stock so you aren't doing this again in a couple of years.
A tip: Use something to measure the gap between the magnets of the rotor and the core of the current ignition coil before you remove it and set the gap the same for the new one. Some setups are fussy about that gap.

Youwill need to disassemble the carburetor and spray withcarb.cleaner.

Use a Den Tek Brush, (http://www.drugstore.com/products/prod.asp?pid=165357&catid=1152),to clean the small portals in carb. These portals can become blocked. Reassemble and start.

If the carb. parts are more than 4 years old, you may have to replace them.

If you need further assistance on:

Just let me know.

Jim

You will need to disassemble the carburetor and spray with carb.cleaner. Use a Den Tek Brush, (http://www.drugstore.com/products/prod.asp?pid=165357&catid=1152), to clean the small portals and/or the jet in carb. These portals can become blocked. Replace the diaphragm as well. Reassemble and start.

If you need further assistance, just let me know.

Jim

check the coil by pulling the plug and lay it against the head put the plug wire on pull the handle if it sparks then its not the coil another thing you can try is spay carb clean or starting fluid in carb see if it starts if that starts it then the float in the carb is stuck if i can help further e-mail me @[email protected]

It sounds as if the gas cap may be clogged. It must be able to breathe so that the carburetor gets the proper gas flow. Does it run for about 10-15 minutes? If so, this is more than likely your problem.

Jim