Question about Kenmore Dryers
Kenmore HE4 Dryer Mod# 110.95088400. With power to the unit, what voltage readings should I get at each pin for P3, P4 and P2?
I now read from .1 - .3 volts. None of my lights on the console are on when power to unit and Start is pushed. Trying to verify MCE board is good.
Hi Gary. I am Kelly.
Take a look at the wiring Diagram on page 63 of this 68 page .pdf file.
Check for 120V between P1 pin 5 and P1 pin 2. If you do not have that 120V then there is problem with the power coming from the door switch. I have read your posts on other sites and you were talking about why you did not have +5V on P4 pin 3. If there is not input power or the door switch has failed you will not have the +5V.
Also see page 58 of the pdf file for making sure the door switch is working properly and for performing resistance checks.
You should be able to read continuity of the door switch by reading across P1 pins 2 and 3 then opening and closing the door. If nothing happens when you open and close the door there is a problem in the door switch circuit.
To check inputs nad outputs of the board transformer check the primare winding for 120V. Usually the input power pins are pins 1 and 2 and the secondary winding either pins 3 and 4 or pins 5 and 6 depending on the tranformer that was used it can be as high as pin 8. The secondary winding pins off of the main board transformer will read either 3 V or 5 V If there is no output on the secondary winding of the transformer something is shorted in the dryer wiring harness or components causing the secondary winding to burn out. (see page 56 of the PDF figure 5-8 and the transformer I am talking about is on the left side of the board just below the circular varistor and P1.)
Sure hope this helps you resolve the issue.
Thanks for using FixYa.
Posted on Jul 15, 2010
Welcome to FixYa.
While I don`t know specifically the voltage readings of the points you are inquiring about, I don`t have a wiring diagram in front of me so I don`t even know exactly what these points pertain to.
I just wanted to throw the idea at you of checking the hi-limit thermal cut-out...if you haven`t already.
Based on your description it certainly sounds like a thermal fuse is open/faulty.
It`s located on the blower housing and accessed through the removable lower panel at the front. It looks like this...
You can either check it by way of ohming it out or jumping it out. It`s only $15 - $20 at most appliance parts vendors.
It is such a common thing I just want to make sure you aren`t overlooking it. If you`ve already been down this road please accept my apoligize.
Let me know if this is indeed any help to you.
Posted on Jul 14, 2010
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
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