Don't know if my amps wired right it has 2 power inputs and 2 ground inputs do I bridge them or run seperate wires?

Hello,

• I would go with some good 8 gauge. More than that for this amp would be overkill and a waste. Many people thing thicker wire is better but that is not the case. To thick of wire to the power feed can draw to much power and send the amp into protect mode. Also to thick of wire with an insufficient amount of power can actual hamper the amps true abilities.
• Use stranded copper wire not solid copper wire for the best results of conductivity.
• Make sure to run a 50 amp fuse inline with the power wire right off the battery. Amps surge and it is far easier to replace a $1 fuse than components inside your amp.
• Your ground is best served running to a bolt in the floorboard. Using the same size, style and quality as your power wire is recommended.
• Your remote wire will connect to the remote wire running from the back of your deck. The remote wire enables your amp to shut off when your deck is shut off. A simple 16 gauge stranded copper wire will suffice for the remote wire.
• I recommend hooking the speakers up using one speaker per channel. I don't bridge amps really. If you want more power then buy a bigger amp.
• The AV cords will go from your deck to your amp right to right and left to left.
• That's the way to wire your amp.

Regards, Tony

I'm having trouble visualizing exactly how you have it set up. You said that the amps are "grounded through the amp" but I think you meant they're grounded through the cap. I don't think that's the cause of your problem, but the cap and amplifiers really should be grounded separately. There's no reason to run the grounds to the cap instead of directly to the chassis. It seems more likely to me that the problem is related to your speaker wiring. I'm not clear on how your speakers are wired either; I can see that you've kept the speakers on factory wiring, and connected the amp to the factory wires. But I don't understand how that translates to having only one set of wires for both speaker sets. We'll leave the tweeters out of it; if they're wired through a crossover, then they don't have a serious effect on the impedance. However, any way you look at it, you've got two 4-ohm speakers wired together to a bridged amplifier. Most 2-channel amps aren't designed to be connected to load impedance under 4 ohms when they're in bridged mode. If your speakers are wired in parallel, then the load impedance at the amp is 2 ohms. Having too low a load impedance is the most common cause of amplifier overheating. My advice is to re-wire the speakers so that one 5x7 and one tweeter (together with a crossover) is connected to each amplifier channel. Don't run the amp in bridged mode. Even in this configuration, I'd be amazed if your 5x7" speakers are really rated to handle 310 watts RMS, which is the per-channel power rating of your amp in 2-channel, 4-ohm mode. It sounds to me like you've got too big of an amp for the job.

take one of your door speakers and check the wireing on the speaker and hook up your wires to those wires on your raido

Ok, without knowing if you have the 2 or 4 Ohm Dual Voice Coil (DVC) version of the subwoofer, I'm going to assume you have the dual 4 Ohm version. The reason why is because, assuming you have the Pioneer GM-5300T amp, that amp does not support an 8 Ohm load. If you wire it in parallel, that would give you a 2 Ohm load. Parallel will be solid red connected to red/white dot, then to amp +, and solid black to black/white dot to amp -. Without knowing more specifics on the amp, that should fix the problem. Let me know what you get.

Yes, keep in mind that the amps have a constant power (the large red wire) and need a remote signal to tell them when to turn on/off. This wire connect to a switched 12v from the ignition or radio blue wire (if aftermarket)

Hello k_rabbit89,

A 4 ohm DVC sub can be wired in series like you described for an 8 ohm load or the voice coils can be wired in parallel for a 2 ohm load.

If your 2-channel amp isn't stable down to 2 ohms when the channels are bridged (most 2-channel amps are only stable to 4 ohms when bridged), you do not want the voice coils paralleled. The amp will overheat, go into protection mode, and eventually fail completely. A sub with 2 ohm voice coils would be a better fit. That way, you could series the coils for a 4 ohm load and the amp would operate OK with the channels bridged into that load.

But anyway, for the best power from THAT amp to THAT sub, your best wiring solution would be to wire each voice coil to a separate channel. The problem with that is that the signal to each coil needs to be EXACTLY the same or you will have one coil trying to move the cone out while the other one tries to move it in. You can closely approximate identical signals on the output side by using the same input to both channels. Do this by using only one RCA connection (either right or left channel) from your head unit and split it with a "Y" cable.

Hope this helps.

Hello bulldogwjm,

You can download the Kenwood manual here:

http://www.kenwoodusa.com/Support/Car_Entertainment_Owners_Manuals/#_

Just select the model number from the dropdown and download it.

Hope this helps.

Pretty Straight Forward get a 8 or 4 gauge amp wiring kit.

Run your hot wire to the +12V from the battery make sure to install the supplied inline fuse near the battery don't connect to the battery until installation is complete.

Run the REM to your stereo power ant. Wire. if available.

Run the GND to Metal Chassis Ground keep it as short as possible.

Run the RCA Cable from the back of the Stereo to the RCA Inputs or Low Level on the amp.

This amp is 2 Ohm Stereo Stable which means you can connect 2 (4 ohm) speakers in parallel to each channel or 1 (4 ohm) speaker on each channel or you can connect 1 (4 ohm) Speaker in bridged mode.

There are other speaker configurations you could use but you cannot drop the load below 2 Ohm in stereo mode and no lower than 4 ohm in bridged mode.

Hope this helps

Run the subs in series then bridge the amp. So run the normal + to - to the one sub then hook up a spare wire (not connected to the amp) to the same + and - connections. Then run the spare wire to the + and - of the other sub. This will tie the 2 together so you can bridge the ampfor more power instead of using 2 seperate channels.