I have 96 sebring with the 2.5. It keeps bringing up a code p1025 or 52...Its for the map sensor. Says it has no 5 volt refference to the sensor. But when I check it with a dvm it show 5.03. While driving down the road it will hessitate and buck. At times it seems like it has stalled out. You have no power at all then as suddenly as it started acting up its gone till next time anyway. Its frustrating to me cause I cant get it to do it all the time so I can diag it. I never know when my wife will call and tell me she is stuck cause it died and wont resart then I get in and start it. Any info or direction to look in will be a hugh help. Thanks
The MAP sensor does the same thing as a TPS Throttle position sensor Tells computer at what angel the intake butterfly is at non fixable Replace the part
SOURCE: 2001 chrysler sebring ball joint (boot) repair
I do not believe that the balljoint is causing the squeak. Take your car to an independent mechanic that you trust. dealerships are notorius for mis-diagnosing (it begins with the intake person describing the problem wrong).
More than likely, the squeak is coming from a worn rubber bushing or mount. Check the exhast pipe hangers for worn rubber. Also check the anti-sway bar bushings and the motor mounts. You should be able to replace these with ordinary tools (assuming you have safe access to the botom of the car - i.e. jack stands). Also check the control arm bushings (these would require an expert, or a pro to replace).
If the balljoint boot is cracked, you can prolong the ball joint life by keeping it well greased. If grease is oozing out the crack, then the balljoint is protected. Replacing the balljoint boot requires separating the wheel spindle from the control arm and can be very dangerous because of the strut spring. This should be left to the expert, or professional mechanic. Also, if the ball joint is squeaking, it needs to be replaced.
If you still want to tackle this yourself, buy a Chilton or similar book (under $10) specifically for your car. They have good instructions and diagrams.
SOURCE: My 2000 Sebring Convertible with 2.5L V6 e sudden
If it happened after you got it from the dealer and you spent that enourmous amount of money for replacing two items which alone would cost around around $300, well... let them fix it free of charge. now unless warranty for the labor and parts has expired, then i suggest doing the wiggle test on the electrical wires on your car while engine on.(be very careful with moving parts and loose clothing) wiggle wires that connect to any electrical part in the car see if it shuts off on you. the only other thing i can think of is replacing your fuel filter and checking your fuel pump..
SOURCE: How to replace a fuel pump in a 95 sebring
yes it is in the tank.....and in some cases, easy access is through the trunk...just lift up the panels and see what's under by your spare tire.....if not, then you will have to drop the tank....
when replacing your tank, do the filter and strainer at the bottom of the pump at the same time..trust me, this will save you a lot of time and money mucking around...
if you're interested in doing the job yourself, then you must put the car on jack stands...locate the tank....loosen the hold down straps...i think they 2 15mm bolts....don't drop the straps right out at this point...undo the clamps holding in the filler tube. with a jack and a block of wood on it, place it under the tank and remove the straps.....SLOWLY lower the jack until the the top of the tank is expose enough to reach the fuel lines going into the pump. with caution not to break any clips or nipples, or lines, remove the two fuel lines going to the pump...there should be a clip there that you need to squeeze in and remove the lines...both are like that...unplug the electrical connector and vent tubes if any.....with a helper, slowly remove the tank from the filler neck tube and lower the tank...once tank is on floor, allow for lots of ventilation...there should be a locking ring holding the fuel pump into place...undo the locking ring, by either using a hammer and BRASS punch or if its a plastic ring, big pair of channel lock pliers.....remove and the pump will come up slightly...remove pump from tank, careful not to damage the level sender. very carefully remove from tank.....once out drain excessive fuel into the tank and remove strainer....and install new one....its very important you replace the strainer with your new pump....and new fuel filter as well...okay? good luck..
SOURCE: fault code p0300
Any time there is a misfire condition in an engine the o2 code will pop up,so you need to correct the misfire and that code will go away.To repair the misfire i would first try a new spark plug and then the coil for that plug.It could also be a faulty injector on that cylinder but that is not common,go with the plug first.note;all the plugs are the same age so if this is your problem,replace the rest also.
SOURCE: 96 sebring 2.5 sounds like ign timing is off
Sorry for the delay.
I am personally going back to answer your unanswered question. I do not know if you still need the answer, but I am going to answer it in case you still do.
You cannot correctly "Time" that engine using the old method of a Timing Light. You have to take the front of the engine (where the Pulleys are) OFF and take the Timing Cover Off inorder to gain access to the Timing Belt and Marks.
Click on the following direct Link. It has the Timing Belt/MARK(S) Diagrams that you will need, complete with Instructional and Directional Diagrams.
Again my apologies...
Let me know if this helped, or if you have additional information or questions. Feel Free to contact me at FixYa.com!
http://www.2carpros.com/car_repair_information/year/1996/make/chrysler/model/sebring/1996_chrysler_sebring_timing_belt_diagram_marks.htm
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