Thank you for the rate and comment! Most models like these have several different models included in the manual which confuse some people. I do have to check and double check my comments because one letter or number in a model number off or incorrect changes an hour of research. Again Thanks,Sea Breeze
Appliance 911Thank you for the rate and comment! Most models like these have several different models included in the manual which confuse some people. I do have to check and double check my comments because one letter or number in a model number off or incorrect changes an hour of research. Again Thanks,Sea Breeze
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It's a Jenn-Air, you will need a service call. They are totally electronic and very complex. Look in the manual first as there may be a child lock function on the controls. It sounds like a thermister has failed though which is a temperature control device. It shouldn't freeze at 38'F, 6' above freezing.
May also need to check the defrost timer, u can get by and test manually by placing a small screw driver into the tiny slot or hole underneath the timer and turn slowly clockwise till u hear 1 click. this will engage ur defrost cycle in about 15 minutes u should be able to come back and feel the heat in freezer as it melts the ice providing ur terminator is not bad?
Another way to test it is with a multi meter. Remove timer it from fridge and you will see 4 prongs numbered 2,1,4,3 in that order. Place ur meter prong on prong 1 & 3 (if your fridge has a capacitor wired in series with the windings, then u check for micro fares rather than OHMS) If u cannot confirm this test, still try the next.
Take ur meter prong and connect to prong 1 & 4, it should read resistance or ohms ( closed) now remove prongs and place on prong 1 & 2, this should now read infinity or open (no ohms) now take a small screwdriver place it in the tiny hole or slot under the timer. Turn it clockwise slowly till u hear 1 click. Now ur 1& 2 should read closed ( showing ohms or resistance) now place meter prongs on 1 & 4 and you it should now show open ( or no resistance - no ohms) this is how u know ur timer is good, Remember when testing for ohms ADJUST meter to use a high ohms rating in the thousands as the resistance is very high in OHMS. And adjusting to low ohms rating may give a false reading or not show the proper resistance..
1-3 TEMPERATURE CONTROL
As the food in the fridge gets colder, it gives off less heat, and the air inside the fridge will remain colder. A thermostat called aCOLD CONTROLwill cycle the cooling system on and off to keep the temperature inside your fridge within a certain range. You can adjust that range using one of the dials within your fridge.
On most fridges, all the cold air for both the food compartment and the freezer compartment is produced in one evaporator. Since the freezer is so much colder than the food compartment, most of the cold air that is produced circulates to the freezer compartment. Only a small amount is needed in the food compartment to keep it down to the proper temperature. This amount is adjusted by a smallAIR DOORin the duct between the evaporator and the food compartment. The control for this air door is the other of the two dials within your fridge.
If you hear your compressor "short-cycling" (starting and stopping at short intervals) try jumping across the two leads of the cold control thermostat ( in the fridge compartment) with an alligator jumper. You can also check both for live voltage current and ohms- If there is a greenthirdlead, ignore it for this test; it is the ground wire. If the fridge starts running constantly, the cold control is bad. Replace it.
To test or change the cold control, first Pull the knob off it and remove any plastic cover plate or housing from it.
You will see two wires leading to it. There will also be a thick, stiffCAPILLARY TUBEattached. The capillary tube is the liquid-filled temperature-sensing element of the cold control, and operates in the same manner as a thermometer
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Check ur cold control thermostat, ur thermistors in both fridge and freezer ( they should be checked for both ohms and for amount of current being put out as per ur model ), ur air flow vent from freezer to fridge.( to make sure it opens and closes without any restrictions) On thermistors check for A close circuit and amount of ohms not just an Ohm reading. As per ur model. Most should atleast show 1200 ohms. Also Check door seals for leakage. Troubleshooting Thermistor Problems in RefrigeratorsRefrigerator Is Not Cooling What To Check And How To FixRefrigeration System Basics Chapter 1
The refrigerator portion is fed cold air from freezer section to cool it. Check for the freezer fan and/or the damper mechanism that directs air into fridge compartment for proper operation.
Fridge/freezer freezing up- and no fan or air circulation:
first check the defrost terminator thermostat it may have gone out. Thus not allowing the heating element to melt the ice.
AT TIMES The fan usually stops working AND CAN MAKE FUNNY NOISES AS WELL due to ice obstruction when the defrost terminator has gone out and u get ice build up? u can check the terminator with a multi meter for continuity but do not check at room temperature. stick the terminator in cup of ice water for 20 minutes then check it for continuity, should be closed when cold and open at room temperature.
May also need to check the defrost timer, The defrost timer is usually found behind the front grill "toe kick" of the refrigerator. Or in the fridge compartment near middle top section.
u can get by and test manually by placing a small screw driver into the tiny slot or hole underneath the timer and turn slowly clockwise till u hear 1 click. this will engage ur defrost cycle in about 15 minutes u should be able to come back and feel the heat in freezer as it melts the ice providing ur terminator is not bad?
Another way to test it is with a multi meter. Remove timer it from fridge and you will see 4 prongs numbered 2,1,4,3 in that order. Place ur meter prong on prong 1 & 3 (if your fridge has a capacitor wired in series with the windings, then u check for micro fares rather than OHMS) If u cannot confirm this test, still try the next.
Take ur meter prong and connect to prong 1 & 4, it should read resistance or ohms ( closed) now remove prongs and place on prong 1 & 2, this should now read infinity or open (no ohms) now take a small screwdriver place it in the tiny hole or slot under the timer. Turn it clockwise slowly till u hear 1 click. Now ur 1& 2 should read closed ( showing ohms or resistance) now place meter prongs on 1 & 4 and you it should now show open ( or no resistance - no ohms) this is how u know ur timer is good, Remember when testing for ohms ADJUST meter to use a high ohms rating in the thousands as the resistance is very high in OHMS. And adjusting to low ohms rating may give a false reading or not show the proper resistance..
Another item to check with a meter is the heating element itself. Located under the evaporator coils. It should show continuity or resistance OHMS WHEN TESTED AT BOTH ENDS OF THE PRONGS .
Lastly check the cold control thermostat with a meter for both OHMS and volts ( VOLTS is a live test with fridge plugged in so be careful) It must show 110 volts. An open or thermostat that reads infinity will not allow the proper cooling and defrosting cycles to operate and may in fact stop anything from happening as if there is no power to the unit?
ALSO CHECK THE AIR FLOW VENT SYSTEM and THERMISTORS At times it can get stuck to far closed or open. Some units feature a digital electric adjusting vent system while others are manually set. Check for any ice build up or other obstruction in the vent damper, see if u can manually open or close it. Some times when u have the settings set to the highest it closes off one area while allowing to much cold air flow to the other area!
THERMISTORS in the freezer and fridge section for continuity OHMS and for amount of OHMS current being put out. In most models around 1300 ( give or take 150 ohms) ohms is required FREEZER /FRIDGE NOT COOLING: Optimum refrigerator temperature at or below40° F(4° C). The freezer temperature should be0° F(-18° C). Check temperatures periodically. Appliance thermometers are the best way of knowing these
Check ur cold control thermostat, ur thermistors in both fridge and freezer ( they should be checked for both ohms and for amount of current being put out as per ur model ), ur air flow vent from freezer to fridge.( to make sure it opens and closes without any restrictions) On thermistors check for A close circuit and amount of ohms not just an Ohm reading. As per ur model. Most should atleast show 1200 ohms. Also Check door seals for leakage. Evaporator coils Poor cooling is often the result of a heavy frost build-up on the evaporator coils. You can't see these coils without removing a panel on the inside of your freezer. A sure sign that there is a build-up is the presence of any frost or ice build-up on the inside walls, floor, or ceiling of the freezer. Such a frost build-up usually indicates a problem in the self-defrosting system or damaged door gaskets.
If one of the components in the self-defrosting system fails, the refrigerator continues to try to cool. Eventually, though, so much frost builds up on the evaporator coils that the circulating fan can't draw air over the coils. There may still be a small amount of cooling because the coils are icy, but with no air flow over the coils, cooling in the refrigerator compartment is quite limited.
FAN check to see if it is operating or restricted A fan that is not blowing or restricted will not circulate the cold air properly.
Often, the first thing that folks do when their refrigerator starts to feel warm is turn both controls on the coldest settings.This is exactly the WRONG thing to do.Turning the cold control to the coldest settingwillkeep the compressor running longer and make lots of cold air.
But turning the air door to the coldest settingclosesthe airway to the food section. Lots of cold air is made, but most of it stays in the freezer section, and the food section actually getswarmer.
\Lastly you should also check ur THERMISTORS in the freezer and fridge section for continuity OHMS and for amount of OHMS current being put out. In most models around 13000 ( give or take 150 ohms) ohms is required.
1-3 TEMPERATURE CONTROL
As the food in the fridge gets colder, it gives off less heat, and the air inside the fridge will remain colder. A thermostat called aCOLD CONTROLwill cycle the cooling system on and off to keep the temperature inside your fridge within a certain range. You can adjust that range using one of the dials within your fridge.
On most fridges, all the cold air for both the food compartment and the freezer compartment is produced in one evaporator. Since the freezer is so much colder than the food compartment, most of the cold air that is produced circulates to the freezer compartment. Only a small amount is needed in the food compartment to keep it down to the proper temperature. This amount is adjusted by a smallAIR DOORin the duct between the evaporator and the food compartment. The control for this air door is the other of the two dials within your fridge.
If you hear your compressor "short-cycling" (starting and stopping at short intervals) try jumping across the two leads of the cold control thermostat ( in the fridge compartment) with an alligator jumper. You can also check both for live voltage current and ohms- If there is a greenthirdlead, ignore it for this test; it is the ground wire. If the fridge starts running constantly, the cold control is bad. Replace it.
To test or change the cold control, first Pull the knob off it and remove any plastic cover plate or housing from it.
You will see two wires leading to it. There will also be a thick, stiffCAPILLARY TUBEattached. The capillary tube is the liquid-filled temperature-sensing element of the cold control, and operates in the same manner as a thermometer The air damper, baffle or diffuser is the device that balances the air flow from the evaporator fan housing. This normally is a mechanically controlled baffle or flapper that controls the amount of cold air entering the fresh food compartment. If the baffle is damaged or the linkage to the control knob is damaged, then you may not have enough cold air entering the fresh food compartment resulting in higher than normal temperatures. This baffle or damper will be located where the cold air enters the fresh food compartment.
Don't know what make and model you have since you did not supply it. So I can't be specific. If you have an older model, it might have a defrost timer located in the back near the compressor or it could be located in the temperature control box in the refrigerator compartment. If it is a newer model, it may not have a defrost timer but, uses a module to control the fridge. That is typically located on the back of the fridge behind an access panel. Hope this helps you.
If you have already adjusted the controls for temperatures in both compartments and allowed 12 - 24 hours to stabilize and the trend is continuing, there may be a problem with the fans that move the cold air from the freezer to the fresh food compartment. The fridge may also start allowing temperatures to rise in the freezer soon, too.
All of these problems originate in the freezer compartment, where the cooling is done. Behind the back wall; inside the freezer - lies the cooling coils, defrost heater, circulating fan(s) and defrost terminator sensor. Unplug the fridge. Empty the contents of the freezer, remove the ice maker assembly and the back wall plate and you should see these components. If it looks like a large block of snow and ice, the problem is with the defrost circuit components. If clear with a minimal amount of frost, the warm fridge is the result of blocked or limited airflow from this area to the fresh food compartment - likely a failed circulating fan. Plug the fridge back in and check to see if the fan is running - since the fridge is warm, it should be running. The fan or the thermostat will probably need replacing if it is not.
If icing or frost is the problem, you'll need to isolate and replace one or more of the following: defrost heater, defrost terminator or defrost timer. The last two are the usual suspects for this type of failure - but the heating element can fail too. Many times, the defrost timer is accessible from the front of the fridge, behind the kick plate below the freezer door on the right side. Other times it is located in or near the temperature control area.
Hi again, the defrost timer is located near the temperature controls in your refrigerator. The control looks like nothing more than a hole, that is larger than the screw holes near it. When you find it, you will know its the right part by pushing your finger or other object in and it makes a ratcheting sound as it rotates.
I can find only one good reason why your refrigerator may not be cooling. There is a control board inside the fresh food compartment and no signs of a defrost timer. If there is someone that go through some test to eliminate other possible problems would be good. If the refrigerator is still running, unplug and open the freezer compartment. Remove the back panel so we can have a look at the evaporator coils. Clean or are they frozen with a large piece of ice? Let me know, Thanks Sea Breeze
After reading this forum and other places I was pretty sure that luck of defrosting is a symptom and the defrosting timer relay is the most likely problem in my case. I must say that my Jenn-Air JCD2289AT refrigerator was occasionally creating rattling sounds in the upper right corner under the panel. I suspected some relay malfunction. This sound lasted for almost a year and then stopped. Refrigerator lost the temperature while working continuously without turning off. I went to a local parts shop and they had this defrost timer in stock. They said that the item is very popular and they always keep it in their stock. Calling technician would cost me $80 and the part was also $80 (not returnable). I’ve made my best bet and bought the part. I removed the panel and found the timer small board (2x3 in) in the upper right side. Make sure unplug refrigerator from power before changing it. The new part is coming in a plastic case, while the old part was without a case. I removed the cover to take picture and compare. My old part had a relay with a bulge on a side apparently due to burned contacts inside (see photo),
while the relay on the new one was perfectly square.
This is a picture without a cover.
I turned on the refrigerator and didn’t see any difference. Obviously, it needs defrosting. I was afraid that automated defrosting at a random time would flood my kitchen, so I opened up the panel in the freezer part to expose coils. Here I took an opportunity to check heating element with a relay. The relay was in “on” position, as supposed to while immersed into ice. The heater showed a resistance of 22.6 ω, and I thought it was OK.
This is partially thawed situation (I used a hair drier).
On the bottom left of the compartment I discovered a 2x3 inch opening connecting the freezer and refrigerator compartments. It was initially completely clogged with ice. That’s why the temperature in refrigerator part was so high, while the freezer stayed cold.
This is a veiw from refrigerator compartment. The hole is ~ 6 inches above the bottom on the left side. It provides cold air from the freezer compartment. If I checked it first, it would give me a clear idea what was going on.
I tried to collect water as much as possible not to overfill the tray under refrigerator.
Still the water spilled onto the floor. I pushed down on the front side of the tray and made a controlled spill. Now the tray had extra room for any residual water.
Refrigerator is working normally now.
This was the second strike. I am planning to move it to the garage and buy another brand. I think Jenn-Air/Maytag engineers are not smart enough to use old fashion electromagnetic relays. Technology offer more reliable electronic switches now for at leas several decades.
Happy end
i don't know jennair specifically being from england. however, there is often a fan inside the back panel and the noise you heard was the fan hitting ice. the reason now not heard and fridge not working may be that the ice has built up so much the fan is jammed
Appliance 911
while the relay on the new one was perfectly square.
This is a picture without a cover.
This is partially thawed situation (I used a hair drier).
This is a veiw from refrigerator compartment. The hole is ~ 6 inches above the bottom on the left side. It provides cold air from the freezer compartment. If I checked it first, it would give me a clear idea what was going on.
I tried to collect water as much as possible not to overfill the tray under refrigerator. 
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