Question about Jenn-Air JCB2388G Side by Side Refrigerator

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Where is the timer on a Jenn Air Model JRS 228?

I looked inside the fridge compartment near the temperature controller and it was not visible.

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Adaptive Defrost Control is located inside the fresh food compartment and behind control panel cover. Part is=> 61005988 Adaptive Defrost Control click here to see location on drawing=> JCB2388G control panel the part #13 in photo is the Adaptive Defrost Control. Please rate my solution after I have helped you resolve the problem and communicate with me. I am offering my help to you free. If need you may contact me here on Fixya or my Forum=> Appliance 911 My contact information is located above the Fixya Ad on my blog here=> Sea Breeze Appliance Parts and Technical Services, www.pcappliancerepair.com
Thanks, Sea Breeze


Where is the timer on a Jenn Air Model JRS 228? - 22dd730.jpg

Posted on Jun 03, 2010

Testimonial: "Thanks for the excellent help. It was detailed and specific with links as well."

  • John Tripp
    John Tripp Jun 04, 2010
  • John Tripp
    John Tripp Jun 05, 2010

    Thank you for the rate and comment! Most models like these have several different models included in the manual which confuse some people. I do have to check and double check my comments because one letter or number in a model number off or incorrect changes an hour of research. Again Thanks,Sea Breeze


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Refrigerator/freezer runs and cooles. Then stops and defrost everything and starts again. Repeats all over again. Did change control card and lcd but still same problem


May also need to check the defrost timer, u can get by and test manually by placing a small screw driver into the tiny slot or hole underneath the timer and turn slowly clockwise till u hear 1 click. this will engage ur defrost cycle in about 15 minutes u should be able to come back and feel the heat in freezer as it melts the ice providing ur terminator is not bad?
Another way to test it is with a multi meter. Remove timer it from fridge and you will see 4 prongs numbered 2,1,4,3 in that order. Place ur meter prong on prong 1 & 3 (if your fridge has a capacitor wired in series with the windings, then u check for micro fares rather than OHMS) If u cannot confirm this test, still try the next.
Take ur meter prong and connect to prong 1 & 4, it should read resistance or ohms ( closed) now remove prongs and place on prong 1 & 2, this should now read infinity or open (no ohms) now take a small screwdriver place it in the tiny hole or slot under the timer. Turn it clockwise slowly till u hear 1 click. Now ur 1& 2 should read closed ( showing ohms or resistance) now place meter prongs on 1 & 4 and you it should now show open ( or no resistance - no ohms) this is how u know ur timer is good, Remember when testing for ohms ADJUST meter to use a high ohms rating in the thousands as the resistance is very high in OHMS. And adjusting to low ohms rating may give a false reading or not show the proper resistance..

1-3 TEMPERATURE CONTROL
As the food in the fridge gets colder, it gives off less heat, and the air inside the fridge will remain colder. A thermostat called aCOLD CONTROLwill cycle the cooling system on and off to keep the temperature inside your fridge within a certain range. You can adjust that range using one of the dials within your fridge.
On most fridges, all the cold air for both the food compartment and the freezer compartment is produced in one evaporator. Since the freezer is so much colder than the food compartment, most of the cold air that is produced circulates to the freezer compartment. Only a small amount is needed in the food compartment to keep it down to the proper temperature. This amount is adjusted by a smallAIR DOORin the duct between the evaporator and the food compartment. The control for this air door is the other of the two dials within your fridge.
If you hear your compressor "short-cycling" (starting and stopping at short intervals) try jumping across the two leads of the cold control thermostat ( in the fridge compartment) with an alligator jumper. You can also check both for live voltage current and ohms- If there is a greenthirdlead, ignore it for this test; it is the ground wire. If the fridge starts running constantly, the cold control is bad. Replace it.

To test or change the cold control, first Pull the knob off it and remove any plastic cover plate or housing from it.
You will see two wires leading to it. There will also be a thick, stiffCAPILLARY TUBEattached. The capillary tube is the liquid-filled temperature-sensing element of the cold control, and operates in the same manner as a thermometer
Read more:

http://removeandreplace.com/2013/10/31/fix-refrigerator-freezer-wont-cool-freeze/#ixzz3WDEo5NDJ

http://www.appliancerepair.net/refrigerator-repair-1.html

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KqXN-ZCuptk THIRMISTOR CHECK

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=53ZFeiWgtuk

REMEMBER GOD IS THE REASON FOR GOOD ADVICE"











Check ur cold control thermostat, ur thermistors in both fridge and freezer ( they should be checked for both ohms and for amount of current being put out as per ur model ), ur air flow vent from freezer to fridge.( to make sure it opens and closes without any restrictions) On thermistors check for A close circuit and amount of ohms not just an Ohm reading. As per ur model. Most should atleast show 1200 ohms. Also Check door seals for leakage.

Troubleshooting Thermistor Problems in Refrigerators Refrigerator Is Not Cooling What To Check And How To Fix Refrigeration System Basics Chapter 1

Jan 20, 2017 | Refrigerators

1 Answer

Jenn-air gasket is hot


The refrigerator portion is fed cold air from freezer section to cool it. Check for the freezer fan and/or the damper mechanism that directs air into fridge compartment for proper operation.

Sep 03, 2017 | Jenn-Air Refrigerators

1 Answer

I have just purchased the above unit and has been plugged in now for 24hrs with no food, the high humidity warning sign Is illuminated constantly Is this correct?? Also I have yet to witness the operation...


You didn't include a manufacturer or model, so I can only offer general help with your problem. If you choose to provide this info later, you may get better, more specific help. The freezer compartment contains the cooling coil for the freezer and fresh food compartments. This fan in many fridges are not visible - but yours may be. Yours may also have circulation fans specifically for moving air around the fresh food compartment.

Generally, the coil is located in a protected area of the freezer (behind the back panel). The fan is arranged to pull air from the freezer floor through the coil to be cooled and blown out the top of the freezer compartment. Openings between the freezer and fresh food compartment allows a portion of the cold air to be blown into the fresh food compartment.

The first thing to do is to see what the temperatures are in both compartments. The fresh food should be about 36 degrees and freezer -10 to 0 degrees Fahrenheit. Place a glass thermometer (capable of displaying 32 degrees and up) in a glass filled with cold tap water, and place in the fresh food compartment. Place another thermometer in the freezer (capable of reading -10 and up). You can also use thermometers designed for fridge / freezer temperatures if you wish.

If there is nothing in the fridge and the door remains shut, the temperature should be seen in an hour or so. If the temperature range is obtainable, it is not likely that there is a humid condition INSIDE the fridge. You may have moisture collecting on the OUTSIDE of the fridge near doors, etc. If so, locate a humidity switch and turn it on. Many manufacturers provide this switch to turn on electric heaters in the outer part of the fridge cabinet where moisture tends to form in humid climates. These heaters operate to evaporate the moisture on the cabinet and usually come on when the freezer defrost circuit is on.

I hope this helps and good luck!

May 16, 2011 | Refrigerators

1 Answer

The auto defrost does not work, either the thermostat or the timer is bad, (Where is the timer located)


Don't know what make and model you have since you did not supply it. So I can't be specific. If you have an older model, it might have a defrost timer located in the back near the compressor or it could be located in the temperature control box in the refrigerator compartment. If it is a newer model, it may not have a defrost timer but, uses a module to control the fridge. That is typically located on the back of the fridge behind an access panel. Hope this helps you.

Jan 06, 2011 | Refrigerators

1 Answer

Refrigerator warm freezer too cold


If you have already adjusted the controls for temperatures in both compartments and allowed 12 - 24 hours to stabilize and the trend is continuing, there may be a problem with the fans that move the cold air from the freezer to the fresh food compartment. The fridge may also start allowing temperatures to rise in the freezer soon, too.

All of these problems originate in the freezer compartment, where the cooling is done. Behind the back wall; inside the freezer - lies the cooling coils, defrost heater, circulating fan(s) and defrost terminator sensor. Unplug the fridge. Empty the contents of the freezer, remove the ice maker assembly and the back wall plate and you should see these components. If it looks like a large block of snow and ice, the problem is with the defrost circuit components. If clear with a minimal amount of frost, the warm fridge is the result of blocked or limited airflow from this area to the fresh food compartment - likely a failed circulating fan. Plug the fridge back in and check to see if the fan is running - since the fridge is warm, it should be running. The fan or the thermostat will probably need replacing if it is not.

If icing or frost is the problem, you'll need to isolate and replace one or more of the following: defrost heater, defrost terminator or defrost timer. The last two are the usual suspects for this type of failure - but the heating element can fail too. Many times, the defrost timer is accessible from the front of the fridge, behind the kick plate below the freezer door on the right side. Other times it is located in or near the temperature control area.

Good luck!

Jun 18, 2010 | Amana ABB2224DEW / ABB2224DEQ / ABB2224DEB...

1 Answer

Fridge compartments too warm


There are several possibilities on your model. Compressor start components and Adaptive defrost Control. I would like you to pull away from wall and unplug , rempove the cover over compressor and feel the compressor to tell me if warm, hot or too hot to keep your hand there, Waiting for your response, Sea Breeze

Mar 27, 2010 | Jenn-Air JCD2389G Side by Side...

1 Answer

Temperature in fridge is going up. temp now 45. Ice is forming on inside top rear of fridge


Hi again, the defrost timer is located near the temperature controls in your refrigerator. The control looks like nothing more than a hole, that is larger than the screw holes near it. When you find it, you will know its the right part by pushing your finger or other object in and it makes a ratcheting sound as it rotates.

Mar 14, 2010 | Arctic Air R22CWF Refrigerator Commercial

1 Answer

Freezer and Fridge temperature not very cold


I can find only one good reason why your refrigerator may not be cooling. There is a control board inside the fresh food compartment and no signs of a defrost timer. If there is someone that go through some test to eliminate other possible problems would be good. If the refrigerator is still running, unplug and open the freezer compartment. Remove the back panel so we can have a look at the evaporator coils. Clean or are they frozen with a large piece of ice? Let me know, Thanks Sea Breeze

Mar 23, 2009 | Maytag ZigZagW / B Side by Side...

3 Answers

Increasing ice AND temperature paradox


After reading this forum and other places I was pretty sure that luck of defrosting is a symptom and the defrosting timer relay is the most likely problem in my case. I must say that my Jenn-Air JCD2289AT refrigerator was occasionally creating rattling sounds in the upper right corner under the panel. I suspected some relay malfunction. This sound lasted for almost a year and then stopped. Refrigerator lost the temperature while working continuously without turning off. I went to a local parts shop and they had this defrost timer in stock. They said that the item is very popular and they always keep it in their stock. Calling technician would cost me $80 and the part was also $80 (not returnable). I’ve made my best bet and bought the part. I removed the panel and found the timer small board (2x3 in) in the upper right side. Make sure unplug refrigerator from power before changing it. The new part is coming in a plastic case, while the old part was without a case. I removed the cover to take picture and compare. My old part had a relay with a bulge on a side apparently due to burned contacts inside (see photo),
cbf6fab.jpg while the relay on the new one was perfectly square.
c49b9ad.jpg This is a picture without a cover.
I turned on the refrigerator and didn’t see any difference. Obviously, it needs defrosting. I was afraid that automated defrosting at a random time would flood my kitchen, so I opened up the panel in the freezer part to expose coils. Here I took an opportunity to check heating element with a relay. The relay was in “on” position, as supposed to while immersed into ice. The heater showed a resistance of 22.6 ω, and I thought it was OK.
e207d3c.jpg This is partially thawed situation (I used a hair drier).
On the bottom left of the compartment I discovered a 2x3 inch opening connecting the freezer and refrigerator compartments. It was initially completely clogged with ice. That’s why the temperature in refrigerator part was so high, while the freezer stayed cold.
05b8f22.jpg This is a veiw from refrigerator compartment. The hole is ~ 6 inches above the bottom on the left side. It provides cold air from the freezer compartment. If I checked it first, it would give me a clear idea what was going on.
7aee4b8.jpg I tried to collect water as much as possible not to overfill the tray under refrigerator.
Still the water spilled onto the floor. I pushed down on the front side of the tray and made a controlled spill. Now the tray had extra room for any residual water.
Refrigerator is working normally now.
This was the second strike. I am planning to move it to the garage and buy another brand. I think Jenn-Air/Maytag engineers are not smart enough to use old fashion electromagnetic relays. Technology offer more reliable electronic switches now for at leas several decades.
Happy end

Jul 15, 2008 | Jenn-Air JCD2389G Side by Side...

1 Answer

Loud buzzing noise from inside Jenn Air 2389G fridge


i don't know jennair specifically being from england.
however, there is often a fan inside the back panel and the noise you heard was the fan hitting ice. the reason now not heard and fridge not working may be that the ice has built up so much the fan is jammed

Jun 25, 2008 | Jenn-Air JCB2388G Side by Side...

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