What is the router bit depth for a shop fox dovetail jig

Sir,
There is an interesting man I believe can stimulate your enthusiasm to be a success. Please? Take the time to travel to this link and watch this short but novel approach to building drawers.

Frank Klausz Dovetail Drawer DVD intro


As far as your saw. I would build a base jig to match the depth and width of your work piece, follow your layout leaving half the line. look over Kluasz' library and your sure to be as wide eyed and smiling as you will when your projects come together.


I have always advocated. New wood smells good. Fare . Well.

I feel your pain! This is not uncommon. If the bit is slipping out of the collet, it is probably due to a dull bit. The 1/4 inch shanks are more prone to this than the 1/2 inch ones, which is why most new routers use 1/2 inch. (Think about the large size as being analogous to a larger wrench being able to exert a greater torque.) However, if the problem is the housing slipping on the base, you can try wedging a little piece of sandpaper under clamp. If the clamp has a thumbscrew, use a wrench on it to tighten it just a bit more than you could possibly do it with strong fingers. It was just this problem that inspired me to ditch my old Craftsman for a Porter Cable. Good luck!

You can get the manual on the link below.

http://www.managemylife.com/mmh/lis_pdf/OWNM/L0802689.pdf

Hi, W/D at your service.
Apparently, there are several types of bits compatible with your model.
Here's a link that gives you a better idea:
http://www.toolup.com/porter-cable_4216_12-deluxe-dovetail-jig-combination-kit.aspx
Best regards, --W/D--

You might check this out, I found it in another forum. It looks like Ryobi made this dovetail jig for Sears.
1-800-525-2579 is their customer service line. I would ask for Ryobi Tech Services.

Give the instruction to a nine year old and let them explain it to you.

I haven't used one for years, but I seem to remember we used to have to dial in the thickness of the planed material just right to get the joints to fit correctly. Doesn't make a lot of sense, particularly if you're using composite boards. And make sure everything is clamped in the jig nice and square, and flush where it's supposed to be.
Also make sure you are running the guide collar right up against the fingers when you cut, maybe take a second pass through. Make sure the bit you're using hasn't been resharpened....Take pains to be sure the bit is centered in the collar.
If you've done all that, I'm afraid you just have to play with it until you get it to work...use some test pieces and you'll see that the depth setting does affect the fit, but they're not as versatile as an infinitely adjustable jig like a leigh. I'm afraid I'd have to put my hands on it to remember and see what wasn't working...
I hope that may help in some way or another...
Here's a link or two that might help as well:

• http://www.newwoodworker.com/dovetails.html
• http://woodworking.about.com/od/dovetailjigs/gr/PorterCable4212.htm
• http://www.woodmagazine.com/woodworking-tips/techniques/joinery/9-steps-to-great-looking-half-blind-dovetails/

I hope this information allows you to resolve this issue. If you need further assistance, please post back with a comment to this thread.
If I've managed to answer your question or solve a problem, please take just a moment to rate this post....thanks!

This may not be related to your jig. It may be movement in the vertical axis resulting from:

1. The router bearings being worn allowing the bit to move up and down.
2. The router bearings worn allowing the spindle to deflect side to side which changes the bit height slightly (cuts on the edges, making the cut a hair deeper).
3. The router collet or router spindle worn, allowing the bit to move during cuts.
4. The jig guide plate deflecting or no longer flat.
5. Excess vibration in the router causing the wood to move in the jig.

To check the bearings; try routing the cut with a straight bit first to clear the wood for the dovetail bit. Then cut with the dovetail bit (a new one preferably) using very light feed pressure. Is the joint tighter? If so then the bearings are worn. Have the router serviced or replace it.

Check the end-play by pulling on the router shaft, does it wiggle slightly in and out? If so this is your problem. Have the router serviced or replace it.

Be sure the wood is flat and the faces planed parallel, if they aren't the dovetail line will be straight but when you assemble there will be slight end gaps in sections of the dovetail.

You will need your model #
Here is where to get your manual

http://www.dewaltservicenet.com/

Good luck and let me know if I helped