A well tuned reg will easily freeflow. Try holding the mouthpiece downward and SLOWLY rotating to fill the 2nd stage with water. If that does not stop the freeflow and/or if the 2nd bubbles even with the mouthpiece held downward, the you need to get the reg serviced.
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I've been in the propane business 28 years and have found regulators from the 1950's still in use today. Regulator manufacturers tell us they should be replaced after 25 years. It should typically outlast the grill itself, which often require new burners, cooking grids, etc. The hissing sound can just be the flow of gas thru the regulator. If you smell gas however, then you should replace it. If it is affecting the pressure to the burners and not getting hot enough to cook properly, then replace it as well.
Not likely. It is also not likely that the regulator is in the fuel pump assembly. Some people mistake the check valve in the pump as a regulator. Also, some vehicles have a pump module which includes the fuel gauge sensor and that can be mistaken as the regulator by some DIYers. The caravan uses a return-loop fuel system. This means that the pump is cycling fuel from the tank to the fuel rail on one line and the fuel that is not needed at the injectors flows back through another line to the fuel tank. This is done to prevent the pump from building up too much pressure and allows the fuel flowing through the pump to keep it cool. Because of the looping system, there needs to be a flow restrictor (aka regulator) at the fuel rail to provide a constant pressure source for the injectors. The regulator is normally at the end of the rail and will have a vacuum line attached. Pull the vacuum line, place a rag at the vacuum port, and crank the engine. There should be no fuel coming out the port. If any fuel comes out of the vacuum port, the regulator is faulty. The regulator could still be faulty even if there is no fuel from the port, but fuel leakage is an easy way to be sure. If the regulator is not providing proper restriction to maintain pressure, then the fuel simply flows in a circular loop from and back to the fuel tank without enough pressure to allow the injector to do their thing,
If free flow from the moment the unit is pressurized it could be the 1st stage intermediate pressure (IP) is too high or the second stage valve seat is missing, set screw is too loose, seat is damaged or has debris on it. If the free flow gradually increases under pressure it usually indicates a damaged 1st stage valve seat. A trained Mares Tech with the correct tools and genuine parts would be the best solution.
Your regulator requires servicing as this problem could be caused by either excessive pressure in the LP line to your Reg or the valve in the reg has become defective.
They sell aftermarket mouth pieces that you warm in water once soft and pliable you bite down it takes shape to your bite plate which is further back in your mouth and can not be pulled out .
Possibly you were trying to adjust the regulator without having air flowing through it. You must squeeze the trigger on the gun and have air constantly flowing through it otherwise the regulator knob is very hard to turn against the pressure inside it. To set an accurate pressure, squeeze gun trigger (while connected to air hose) to get air flowing... then twist regulator knob out (or in the "-" direction) until air flow reads 0 on the regulator gauge. Then start twisting regulator knob the other way until you reach the desired pressure on the regulator gauge. Also make sure the regulator is attached with air flowing the correct way through it. There should be an arrow somewhere on the regulator body which should be pointing toward your spray gun.
It is a HORRIBLE idea for you to dismantle your first stage. It should only be done by a trained technician because of how many small parts there are... now depending on your regulator you might have the ability to turn down the pressure... read the manual to find out if your reg has this adjustment capability.
The scuba regulator is employed in an open-circuit scuba set. Said scuba equipment reduces high air pressure conveyed by the diving cylinder to the first stage and feeds breathable gas to the diver through the second stage's mouthpiece. Also called pressure regulator or demand regulator, the scuba equipment is one of the essentials to diving that determines breathing quality and inhalation effort during the dive. But given the different types of regulators and the pertinent design of its first and second stage components, how should a neophyte diver - or even a seasoned diver at that, choose a scuba regulator that incorporates user adjustment and delivers a venturi-assisted air flow in its features? Consider your diving purpose and frequency. Better yet, take note of the following criteria to guide you in your purchase:
1. The Scuba Regulator's Mouthpiece. Check the specifications if the regulator is outfitted with a patented orthodontic mouthpiece. This implies that it is ergonomically-designed to accommodate an overbite or underbite by the human mouth. An ergonomic mouthpiece helps reduce fatigue in the mouth and jaw area, particularly in the cruise of lower depths and extended dives.
2. User Adjustment Settings. There are optimally-designed scuba regulators that are outfitted with adjustment levers to therefore allow divers to finetune valve settings in order to provide the least possible inhalation effort throughout the dive. One notable scuba equipment is the Aeris AT 400 Pro Regulator that is equipped with an adjustable second stage.
3. Weight of the Scuba Regulator. Visualize yourself on a dive and using just any other type of scuba regulator. Is the regulator bulky to considerably increase drag and cause jaw fatigue or is it buoyant enough for you to carry around with your mouth? Lightweight scuba regulators use polycarbonate thermoplastics for its housing to make the scuba equipment compact, sturdy and corrosion-resistant that makes them fit for extended use.
4. Nitrox Compatibility. This entails an ocular inspection of the cylinder tank (Nitrogen and Oxygen proportions) and scuba regulator (Nitrox compatibility) specifications. As a matter of convention, most regulators are suited for nitrox mixture use out of the box; containing the standard, maximum proportion of 40% Oxygen (in terms of volume) but then again, there are gas mixes supporting leaner proportions of oxygen such as the trimix. Therefore, check if the scuba regulator supports the gas mixture configured for your diving cylinder prior to purchase.
5. No-Contaminant Feature. As much as possible, choose a diving regulator that has been manufactured using Dry Valve Technology (DVT). DVT operates through an automatic valve that prevents contamination of the first stage mechanism to thus prevent regulator flooding and the entry of moisture or dust particles. This likely improves scuba regulator performance and extends its useful life.
6. Air-Sharing Feature. This feature often associated with octopus regulators (used as a spare demand valve or alternate second stage) will prove to be most helpful during diving emergencies such as a free flow or during diver rescues. High performance octopus regulators such as the Aeris Gyro Octopus Regulator are designed lightweight and with air-sharing feature, while sporting an inline swivel for convenience mounting and flexibility
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