Dark oil coming from inside prop

The main concerns are:
1. Draining and/or running all the fuel out
2. Fogging the engine with protective oil (fogging oil is available)
3. Remove the prop. The splice could use some lube and the number 1 cause of oil leaks is fishing line wrapped around the prop shaft. You don't fish? others do.
4. Hang the motor vertical (normal running position) should drain all the water out.

Take off prop see if it is coming from props haft,if so replace seal

If it shifts into gear and functions ok until you start to accelerate then revs up without going anywhere it is most likely the hub in the propeller. If so try another prop or have a prop shop rehub yours.

If it is the gear case jumping out of gear usually it is a more abrupt event, feels like you hit something. Also check the gear lube by tilting the motor down and unscrewing the drain screw from the gear case. Let a couple of drops come out. Should be clean oil, if old it will be black and have a strong odor. It should not have any water or metal filings in it. If milky there is water mixed with the oil.

Basic check for any outboard: check compression in each cylinder, should all be within 10% of the lowest reading. With an air gap spark tester check spark. Your 6 HP spark should jump a 3/8" gap, blue crisp spark is good, yellow weak. Check gear lube with the motor in a verticle position, prop end down, unscrew the drain plug at the bottom of the gear case. Let a couple of drops out. Should be clean gear oil. If old it might be black and have a strong odor. There should be no water or metal filings. If it is milky there is water mixed in with the oil. If all checks ok run the motor. It should run smooth, no knocking and the cylinder head should be about 120 degrees. That is uncomfortable to keep your finger on but not so hot you cannot touch it. If it is too hot or too cold it can cause problems if run. Too hot will cause problems very soon, too cold will cause problems over time by building up carbon in cylinders and causing piston rings to stick.

Hope this helps.

most 2 stroke motors will not burn all the oil in the mix and that unburned oil coats the exhaust leg and leaks out the thru hub exhaust and parting line of the lower to the housing. so keep some windex handy and clean it up.

What a neat little fisher motor. All needle bearing motor so you can run it on 50/1 --would use synthetic for the best operation. Take care of that starter spool- slowly engage the plastic gear to the flywheel before you pull the starter for the start.

It sounds like you need to change prop shaft seal. While at it check water pump impeller (in sure it is still playable). Also change seal under pump wear plate.

The engine oil tank is on the bottom of the transmission. On one corner of the transmission there is a large 2" diameter cap with knurling on the edges. Pull this out and you'll see the oil dipstick. Check the oil with the bike on the side stand. Lower mark is FULL COLD, upper mark is FULL HOT. do not overfill. Capacity with filter change 3 quarts.

The transmission oil is separate from the engine oil. On the right side of the bike just behind the exhaust system is the chrome clutch release mechanism. It has a plug in it that takes a 7/16" Allen or Hex key wrench to remove it. With the bike standing straight up, the oil level should be between the two marks on the dipstick. Capacity 20-24 ounces

The primary also has oil in it. With the bike standing straight up, remove the round "derby" cover. Inside is the clutch assembly. You'll see a bright ring around the clutch assembly with the dark clutch spring inside. Fill the oil just until it touches the lowest point of the dark clutch spring. Do not overfill. Capacity, 36-42 ounces.

Good Luck
Steve

Yes the prop shaft seal needs to be replaced.Do this sooner than later as water will get into the lower g/box.Sometimes they wear out or fishing line is a bad culprit.Its not a big job but it really needs to be done.The oil will also need replacing.Hope this helps

Mate.Have a look at the bolt holes on the transom.If there is some that are lower than the holes used,no problem.Lower your trailer at the front all the way to the ground.Loosen the transom bolts.2 should be in holes,2 should be in a slide hole.Chock the motor under the skeg.Remove the 2 bolts that are in the holes and very slowly raise the front of the trailer.The motor being 'chocked'.will then rise as you lift the trailer.If you run a line from the bottom of the boat through to the middle of the g/box a cleaver prop should be about 2.5 inches and a chopper prop can run up to 5 inches on a really quick boat.This is for 3 blade props.Make sure when the bolts go back in,plenty of sealant.Hope this helps