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How soon after starting does it shut down? The hour meter is fed directly from the AC output off the generator stator, if there is no AC output the meter will not run. Assuming it shutdowns quickly, check 1st the oil level and make sure the low oil sender unit is ok, wire #24 to ground. If that is bad it will shut down. Check to see if you have 240V on L1 and L2 on the breaker for the brief time it does start, that will confirm stator/rotor has an output, then your problem moves from the generator portion to either the oil sender, or control board.
1. Make sure that the generator limit is not being exceeded. 2. Try checking and raising the rpm. If the engine can not sustain the load from the generator, it can/will trip the breaker. 3. If the carb is dirty or the engine runs poorly it can trip the breaker. Tune up the engine, clean the carb, make carb adjustments to correct substandard running conditions.
This is a fairly common problem with older AC's, especially ones on a RV. As they age they start to break down (electrically/mechanically) a little, and therefore when the load is the greatest, i.e. the heat of the day, they will pull a little more amps (than what they and the breaker is rated at) and trip the breaker. This is a pretty good indication that either the fan motor or the compressor could be on it's last legs.
Not exactly what you wanted to hear I bet?
There is some other possibility's, however.
1. if the system has been opened (a easy way to tell this is if - 'service ports' - have been added in order to charge the unit) - it's possible that whoever 'charged it' - put just a little too much refrigerant (an overcharge unit will pull more amps) in it. The best way to tell this is to put gauges on it and check the running pressures - during the heat of the day. It's possible that someone knowledgeable with AC's - could 'fine tune' your charge and eliminate this problem. Note: obviously if you do not have 'service ports' then an overcharged system is not your problem.
2. The breaker might be getting 'weak' and tripping early. I don't think of this as a good possibility, (since breakers are usually good or bad) - but, you might want to think about replacing the breaker. Also, it's possible that the breaker is not rated high enough to handle the AC. I would check with an electrician and see if he/she thought your breaker was sufficiently sized right.
3. you might have a fan or compressor - 'capacitor' (silver or gray oblong electrical devices) going bad or already bad. This is a remote possibility but if upon examination you see one or both of the capacitor's with a 'bulge,' then I would swap it. Note: Usually capacitors that go bad - have a bulge - but they can be bad and not have a bulge.
hope this helps.
My suggestion would be to run them off their own circuit. If you wire them to run off of any other circuit, you may overload that circuit and cause it to blow fuses or trip breakers. If you go up on the size of the fuze or breaker, you run the risk of burning up the wiring.
So, I'd run a seperate wire, 14 ga, from the output side of the main breaker. Make sure you put a fuse or a breaker in the circuit right there as well. I would not exceed a 15 amp device as that's the current handling capability of the 14 ga. wire. From the downstream side of the fuse or breaker, the wire goes to your switch and then to your light bar.
Find the panel with your fuses or breakers mounted on it. There may be room to mount another one on it. If not, you can use an "inline" fuse off the output of the main breaker. The silver terminal of any breaker is the "output" side of it.
I would be checking about the regulator and power output stages for dry solder joints. With the progressive heating of the unit from operation, failing solder joints may be causing a condition to occur that operates the protection circuit. Careful inspection under good light is required. You may find soldering around outputs, drivers and other devices mounted on heat sinks or other devices that run hot to have circular fractures in the solder about the lead to be commonly responsible for the problems you are facing., if you have a soldering suitable iron, and the time and patience, go for it. I have included a link to a soldering guide here.
Good luck, thanks for using FixYa, and a rating of FixYa would be great for my time to address your problem. Cheers
yes they can, and would probably sound good.
keep in mind the power rating of the speakers,as the output of a stereo/hts amp may excede this if the volume is to high.
D-Dan
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