Re: when started, the dryer works normally. Then the
Good day, This is a common problem. The gas valve has 2 black coils mounted to the top. One has partially shorted. You need to replace the coils as a kit. Remove both wire plugs, remove the 2 screws holding the coils in place, and lift off.
The clip I've included does not apply to repairing the coil kit, but does show you how to access the area. It is a Whirlpool product.
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As I am not too familiar with gas dryers-here is a question-does the dryer normally have ignition only until the main flame is lit and a sensor warmed up that then shuts off the ignition.This is a energy saving feature that replaced having a pilot light run all the time.It should say in your manual if you have a standing pilot light or an ignitor which shoould I believe only run long enough for something like a thermocouple warms up to tell the ignitor to stop and the main flame will keep running until the cycle is complete. Hope this gives you a start and feel free to ask for more info. I'll do what I can.
If your dryer is not drying like it once did or if you just have nottaken the time to give yourself a clean dryer in a long time then youneed to do that. At least once a year the dryer cleaning should takeplace. Lint build up in the dryer duct is one of the main causesfor your dryer to fail.
Dryer does not have pilot light. There is an ignitor that glows when the dryer is started and lights the flame when the gas begins to flow. With the front of the dryer off start it up and look for the glow. when it glows hot enough (or on a newer model it might be a spark) the gas should ignite. When the flame sensor sees that the gas is ignited it shuts off the ignitor and keeps the gas valve open until the temperature sensor gets high and shuts it off. When the temp sensor cools down the cycle repeats.
If no glow or spark-->bad ignitor
If no gas flow-->bad flame sensor or bad gas valve coil
If gas comes on and goes off quickly-->lint filter and/or vent pipe or outlet may be clogged or bad flame sensor.
Hi, You will need to change the coils on top of the gas valve. If the ignitor glows but the flame doesn't come on, this is your answer. It is a very common problem with the gas dryer. If I can assist you further, please let me know.
thanks
Vic
Remove the vent line from the rear and try the dryer. If it heats then that means there is a clog or kink in the vent line blocking the vent air from exiting which will stop the dryer from getting hot! If not then it's another one of these problems.
Defective Ignitor (Gas Only) When heated the ignitor used on your gas dryer must obtain a specific high temperature in order to activate the flame sensor. This ignitor is fragile and susceptible to cracking. A hairline fracture that is barely visible to the naked eye is enough to change the resistance of the ignitor to a point that is will not work properly. You can test the resistance of your ignitor. You should get a reading of 50-400 ohms of resistance.
If the ignitor gets hot and then goes off after about 10-15 seconds and there is no ignition, the problem is probably not the ignitor. It is most likely the gas valve coils that are defective.
If the ignitor comes on and stays on, it is the flame sensor that is defective.
If the ignitor is not getting hot it could also be one of the thermostats that is defective. The power for the ignitor is passed from the timer, through all of the thermostats, limit switches and fuses to the ignitor. So if you are not getting power to the ignitor during ignition, you should check the continuity of the individual thermostats and fuses. DRYER DOES NOT HEAT
Defective Gas Valve Coil (Gas Dryer Only)
If the gas dryer will light once but will not relight until it cools down, it is likely the gas valve coils are faulty. These coils loose some strength when subjected to heat. When they become old, the addition of heat may be enough to prevent them from opening the gas valve when hot. However the coils still work when when cool.
An easy way to diagnose the coils when the burner is not lighting, watch the ignitor. If the the ignitor glows for 10 to 15 seconds but no flame is created, then the coils are faulty. If the ignitor is not glowing the problem is elsewhere.
Recent Customer Symptoms: The dryer burner doesn't always come on when starting. If the burner does come on, once it goes off if won't come on again until the dryer cools down.
Defective Flame Sensor (Gas Dryer Only) The flame sensor's job is to monitor the ignitor for sufficient heat to ignite the gas. A properly operating flame sensor will pass a continuity check under room temperature.
Common Symptoms If the flame sensor is defective in the open position, the ignitor will not get hot when the dryer is started. However, if it is defective in the closed position the ignitor will get hot, but the flame sensor will not allow the flame to ignite. In this case, the ignitor will usually stay hot for a long period of time.
Defective Thermostat The thermostats are responsible for maintaining the proper temperature in the dryer. Check the exhaust temperature of the dyer and if the temperature is above 150 degrees, you will most likely need to change the operating thermostat.
The thermostat can also fail in the opposite mode. It can prevent the element from heating at all. A failed continuity check at room temperature will verify this condition.
There are some special thermostats that are single pole double throw. These thermostats are often used to control the timer when set to the Automatic Dry cycle. If the dryer timer will advance in the Timed Dry cycle but not the Automatic Dry cycle, then the thermostat could be the problem.
Defective Thermal Fuse The thermal fuse is in series with one leg of power to the motor. If the fuse is open (no continuity) the motor will not run.
Location: The thermal fuse is located in different locations according to the model and brand of dryer.
Solution: Check the thermal fuse for continuity with a volt/ohm meter. If it is open, it will need to be replaced
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I had a problem once with a gas dryer that would come on, the pilot would glow and the flame would run on a shortend cycle. The coil that opens the gas valve had a short circuit that would only short out when it heated up. It would drive me crazy since it appeared to be working. The short cycle time the first time, and then maybe not at all once it was warm gave me mixed signals.
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