Inducer motor operates low RPM in low and hi fire modes. Microprocessor problem. Roll out temp. switch trips in both levels of heat operation. Will operate in ''Emergency run'' mode. ( Full Heat )

Question edited for typos.

Gas furnaces has safety features to prevent explosions. If anything is thought to be faulty, nothing works. All gas appliances must be repaired by a registered gas technician. The two pressure switches are $76 and $29 if you want to risk it.

https://www.goodmanparts.net/category/goodman-gmv950905dxa-gas-furnace-oem-repair-parts

There is videos and help here. Check the hose on the pressure switch.

https://www.google.com/search?q=Goodman+GMV950905DXA++low+fire+pressure+switch+stuck+open

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Wiper/Washer System Components
The Wiper/Washer System consists of the following electrical components:
• Accessory relay
• Heated washer nozzles w/XA7
• WASH NOZ 10A fuse
• Windshield washer fluid level switch
• Windshield washer pump motor
• Windshield wiper motor
• Windshield wiper motor module
• Windshield wiper/washer switch
• Wiper/washer switch 10A fuse
• Wiper motor 30A fuse

Wiper/Washer System Operation
The windshield wiper motor module is part of the windshield wiper motor cover and controls wiper motor operation. The accessory voltage supply circuit to the windshield wiper motor assembly is used to operate the wiper motor in all modes. The windshield wiper motor is a 2 speed motor and is operated at low speed in all modes except HIGH. The accessory voltage supply circuit to the windshield wiper/washer switch is used to supply the windshield wiper switch signal circuits. The windshield wiper switch signal circuit voltage levels to the wiper motor module determine the wiper motor operating mode.
When the wiper/washer switch is in the LOW position voltage is supplied through a 24K ohm resistor within the switch to the windshield wiper switch signal 2 circuit, and accessory voltage is supplied to the windshield wiper switch signal 1 circuit. The reduced voltage from the wiper switch signal 2 circuit and accessory voltage from the wiper switch signal 1 circuit causes the wiper motor module to close the wiper motor accessory voltage supply circuit to the wiper motor low speed terminal.

As you may know, heat pumps will not work in extreme cold outdoor ambience temp. It is why the aux heat is there as a supplement.
7 blinks indicates a furnace roll out switch problem. Lack of airflow, lack of combustion exhaust flow, switch fatigue, clog on air filters. The roll out switch senses fire overheating the heat exchanger box and if the temp exceeds the switch (thermal switch) operating temp, then the switch activates and stops the fire and triggers the alarm.

Open circuit or out of range Freeze Sensor. Air conditioner mode of operation will be locked out. Furnace, heat strip, heat pump and fan mode of operation can continue to operate but displays the last temperature set-point. There is a sensor that detects evaporator freezing, it may be bad or your freezing because of low freon levels

Hi, if you have replaced the control board and pressure switch, you need to check the sequence of operation. Starting with the inducer motor, must start up to pressurize unit box and be sure the pressure switch is closed. Even though you have replaced this switch, it may not have enough pressure to close it due to condensation in hose, a leak and so on. Jump across this switch to see if the pilot will light next. If this unit has a flame roll out switch located by the corner burner, make sure it is not tripped. Sequence of operation is, first your inducer motor will start and vent old gases and build pressure. Pressure switch will make and send signal to ignitor board to start pilot. If you have a HSI pilot, (Hot surface ignition ) it will glow. Next it gets the flame sensor hot enough to send a signal that the pilot is proved back to the board to fire the main gas smart valve with 24 volts. Go through this check as I have layed out. The flame sensor is right along side of the pilot tube and if the metal tip gets dirty, it will not fire. You can clean it with sanding cloth or fine steel wool to clean. If you go through all of these steps and it will not fire after you have made sure you have 24 volts ac at all controls in the sequence I have said, check the main gas valve across terminal C and MV for 24volts. If you have 24volts and it won't open the valve, it is faulty. Check this out for me and let me know. If no 24 volts, you have missed a safety in the sequence.
Sincerely,
Shastalaker7
A/C, Heating& Refrigeration Contractor

it sounds like the low temp limit switch, the one that cools the furnace down with the burner off and the thermostat open, when it cools to a point the fan stops, the other switch in burner area turns burner off/on, hope this helps

Here is the ignition sequence for a spark ignited furnace. This will help you understand what is happening/not happening.

Thermostat calls for heat.

draft inducer motor (DIM) starts drawing draft through heat exchanger.

Pressure switch detects proper operation of DIM, and sends signal to board to begin ignition.
(it detects negative pressure)

Ignitor starts ignition attempt and gas valve sends gas to burners.

Upon ignition, flame sensor detects flame and sends signal to board stopping ignition sequence and continuing gas flow for heat mode operation until thermostat is satisfied.

During this sequence the blower motor is brought on, and by using a series of temperature limit switches, the system assures that the unit is operating properly.
(If the blower is not operating, or the airflow is inadequate, the heat exchanger will overheat and trip one or more temp limit switches.)

There is also a "rollout" switch that detects improper flame pattern "rolling out" into the controls compartment.

Now, to apply that to your situation.

If you have no spark, than the failure is happening before the gas is supposed to be flowing.

That usually means a failure at the D.I.M. Typical causes for that are a clogged flue pipe/vent, damaged/deteriorated fan blades, bad fan, or bad pressure switch.

If one of the temp limit switches or rollout switches have tripped, it will simply shut off the system.
(Some units will turn on the blower motor and shut down everything else.)

You can try resetting the unit by disconnecting power for 1 minute, and attempting a restart.

First look for any flashing LED lights. If you see any locate the wiring schematic (usually on the inside of the front panel) and look for the flash codes.

If the reset does not solve the problem, let me know what flash code you are getting, and/or let me know exactly what you see the furnace doing, in detail, after the restart.

The limit switch on the inducer has tripped. There are two wires that go to a small disk about the size of dime that has a small button in the center. Push this little button and you will feel a littl snap and the unit should fire up. Check all the manual reset limits as well. If the unit still won't start, jump the two wires by bypassing the limit switch. If it starts, then replace the switch. Bypassing the switch is only temporary and could lead to death if it is used as a permenant fix.

try checking the pressure sensing switch,it has a tube that should run somewhere close to the inducer fan.sometimes this hose fills with liquids,and makes the units act funny.I don't know if you have a condensing unit or what.the furnace wont try to light if it cant tell the inducer motor is running.any induced draft unit will work this way.you can also do a temp. bypass of the pressure switch to make sure the contacts on it are closing just be sure your inducer fan is running,and you cant leave it like that its just a test.that is a safety feature you really need.