I have a kenmore gas dryer is it good if on # 1 coil on #1and 2 i get1328 ohms 1and3 i get 528 on #2 coil i get 1220 ohms

Hello;

My name is Peter. I am a retired field service appliance technician.

It sounds like one of the heat related components is starting to fail. You need to check all of these components with your multi-meter set to the lowest Ohms. With the dryer unplugged:

1.) Radiant Sensor.
This radiant sensor for a gas-heated dryer senses the air temperature in the drum and signals the coils to charge and the igniter to spark when the temperature falls too low. This is located next to the igniter.

The sensing surface may be covered in soot and requires cleaning.

Disconnect the two wires from the contactors. Ohm it out with your meter. If the meter reads '0' this component is good. If it reads anything else it is bad.



Part number 338906 - $28.00

2.) Thermostat.
Ohm this out the same way as above.

Part Number W10423382 - $26.00

3.) Thermistor.
Ohm this out the same way as above.


4.) Glow Bar Igniter.

Although this component may glow, it may not have enough power to open the gas valve. I Ohm out an igniter @ 137 Ohms, installed a new igniter which Ohm out at 167 Ohms; therefore the igniter was weak and was the problem.




$28.00

http://www.applianceaid.com/gas_dryer.html#noheat

gas dryer is on the right, it sounds as though the thermal fuse is bad, you can tape the wires together to test to see if it heats. As far as the rolling sound I would say it is the drum rollers:

http://www.applianceaid.com/dryers.html

Good Luck Tim. if you need further assistance just ask.

Good day,
Follow a step by step procedure. It's the easiest way. The most common problem items are here. Thermal fuse and ignitor. The gas valve coils are fairly common as well. Kenmore's are built by Whirlpool.





Here are items to check. You will need an ohm meter to perform some of these tests.
1. Make sure the gas is turned on to the appliance.
2. Remove the back cover of the dryer. In the center bottom is a small skinny white ceramic device, held on with one screw.
Remove one of the wires, and check it with an ohm meter. It should show zero ohms of resistance. If not, it is defective, and needs replaced. This device on your brand causes 80 to 90% of all no heat problems.
3. As well, there are 3 or 4 other thermostats in the area, either round or rectangular, with 2 wires going to them. Check all of them if needed. They should all check zero ohms.
4. To check the igniter, you will have to remove the front panel. A tutorial follows, on how to do that.
Locate the gas valve, on the left side. Follow it forward, you will see the 2 wires on a plug, and at the tip of the burner tube, the igniter itself. Unplug, and check the igniter leads. It should read about 20 to 30 ohms. if not, it has burned out and needs replaced.
5. On the gas valve itself, are 2 black coils, held on with a 2 screw bracket. They can fail, but cannot be tested with a meter. If they are bad, the heating system will light the igniter, and shut down without firing the gas. All components must be in place to perform this test.
That covers 99.5% of all issues. There are others, such as the timer, heat selector switch, centrifugal switch in the main motor, but are extremely rare.
The tutorial below is not about heat trouble shooting, but is supplied to show how to gain access to the front of the machine.
http://www.wikihow.com/Replace-a-Dryer-Belt-on-Whirlpool-Models

You may have a bad thermocouple. The thermocouple is what "tells" the control unit that the flame is present. If it doesn't tell the control, the control turns the gas off to prevent an explosion.

Check the hi limit thermostat and the cycle thermostat. They may be opening too soon.
Remove the connecting vent on the rear of the dryer exhaust and see if it cycles normally.
The flame sensor may be malfunctioning.
If the gas valve coils are good, these are the only other possibilities.

coils on the gas valve, especially the single coils that whirlpool uses, break down after use. They may ohm out good when cold and the burner may light 1, 2, or 3 times, then you get ignition failure. Coils are bad. Hint when replacing coils. the front coil which has 3 terminals has a metal sleeve inside the coil. Make sure that sleeve stays with the valve. It can get stuck in the old coil and thrown away. Good luck
The Squirrel

replace the igniter. The ignitor is the most comon problem with gas appliances checking continuity does not tell you if it is bad or not it has to draw a certain amount of amps to open the gas safty valve and the is no safe way to check this on most gas dryers

Most of these issues will need an ohm meter, unless you want to just take a guess.
For Gas dryers.
1. See if the ignitor glows, if not, check the thermal fuse. (if the lint screen is on top, the fuse is accessed behind the back panel, it's small and white, next to the bulkier thermostat. If the lint screen is in the front panel, the thermal fuse is mounted on top of the blower wheel housing, accessed behind the bottom-front or "kick" panel. The fuse should read 0 to .2 ohms at the most, technically is should be zero. If that checks ok, check the ignitor itself, which has a wire harness that connects about 6" from the ignitor. Should be around 50 ohms... a faulty ignitor would read infinite ohms (open).
2. If the ignitor does glow, and you hear a click, but there is no flame, replace the valve coils, (two small cylindrical objects mounted on the valve) Part # 279834. This is assuming your gas is ON.

If Electric, it would not be the fuse, as on electric dryers it is also in the motor circuit, and the dryer would not run at all. Check the heating element, should be around 9-11 ohms. If good, check all thermostats (operating, hi-limit, thermal cutoff). Infinite ohms is bad. Hopefully it's not more complicated than this, or it can get weird..... Hope this helps.

Hi. thanks for the question. the problem is with the coils, at the gas valve. 2 round solenoids .1 with 2 wires to it. 1 with 3 wires to it. replace them . thanks te appliance doc