Faucet is leaking up from the sleeve. I remove the screw under the cap, but the handle mechanism does not come off. Do I force it? Pry it? Probably held by hard water sediment.

Hi Jackie:
Don't know what kind of faucet you are dealing with so will give a couple of ideas:
First, shut off the water supply so you don't have an accidental flood.
- Some faucets have a lever that you have to rotate to open and close the valve. There is a removable trim cap over the center of rotation. You'll need to use a sharp pointed knife or pin to pry upward from the edge. There will be a screw under the cap that should be tight to hold the lever to the valve mechanism.
- If this is a common "hose bib", the handle is visibly attached to the valve mechanism, and the valve mechanism is assembled by screwing a cap nut or insert to the valve body, Some of these can have slack removed simply by tightening the nut.
- If all else fails, Dis-assemble the faucet to determine how it works, and then repair as necessary. This is what some of us call fun.
Cheers.

Take handle off (either set-screw from side or bottom of handle, or phillips screw under cap on end of handle), pull off sleeve that's behind handle, unscrew nut that holds cartridge (strap wrench works great) and pull cartridge out.

you may have to use a little force gently pry under the handle be extremely careful not to break handle i usually take a piece of wood to put up against faucet or whatever and then tap faucet with hammer then start prying back side with a screwdriver or small breaker bar use your hand to try to wiggle the handle

follow this steps and fix it. God bless you
Service a compression faucet:

1. Turn off the water supply and open the faucet handle to relieve water pressure.
2. Carefully pry off the trim cap with a small screwdriver or putty knife.
3. Remove the locknut with an adjustable wrench, then lift the spindle out of the faucet.
4. As needed, remove and replace the O-ring. Before reinstalling, coat the stem lightly with plumber's grease.
5. As needed, remove the retaining screw and pry out the washer. Install an exact-replacement washer and tighten it.
6. As needed, inspect the seat and replace if damaged.
7. Install the valve and tighten, then reinstall the handle and test.

Repair a reverse-compression faucet:

1. Turn off the water supply and open the faucet handle to relieve water pressure.
2. Carefully pry off the trim cap with a small screwdriver and remove the handle screw. Unscrew the packing nut and lift out the stem assembly.
3. As needed, pry out the washer under the packing nut and replace it.
4. As needed, remove the seat washer and replace it with one that fits exactly. Rethread the spindle and washer back onto the stem, and reassemble the faucet.

pry plastic cap, under cap remove Phillips screw,pull handle and replace

Hello,

What you need to do to solve the problem of your whirlpools is to trubleshoot it to resolve the problem your self.
Carefully apply the below instruction to solve the washer problem.

If your bathtub faucet leaks or performs poorly, there areways to troubleshoot the problem. A few common parts are most likely to wearout, so checking these reveals exactly what's wrong with the appliance. Thisrequires no specialized skill, and anyone who knows how to use a wrench willfind this project takes less than an hour. If you have no experience, giveyourself extra time.
1 Turn off the water to the faucet. Take offthe cap on top of the handle and remove the screw under the faucet cap with anAllen wrench. Take the handle off the faucet, pulling it away from the showerwall.
2 Remove the trim sleeve (also called a dome cap or bonnet). Simply turn itcounterclockwise and pull it off the faucet head.
3 Tighten the cartridge nut under the trim sleeve, replace the trim sleeve andhandle, and turn on the water. Test the faucet. Watch to see if the leak orproblem goes away. If not, remove the handle and trim sleeve.
4 Remove the retaining nut entirely. Turn it counterclockwise and pull it offthe faucet. Slide the cartridge out of the faucet and inspect the valve seals.If they're worn, replace the cartridge and reattach the retaining nut. Tightenwith a pliers or wrench.
5 Replace the trim sleeve and handle and turn on the water to test the faucet.
tools needed to carry out the work.

Thanks for uing fixya.

shut water off under faucet,open it to prove wtr is off. pry off cap , slide edge of putty knife,butter knife.etc should see a phillip's screw.remove,pull handle off, pull chrome sleeve off, now. toward's top you should see a little tab sticking out, it is part of a horse shoe shaped clip,pull with needle nose plier's,or similar.pay attention how it come's apart ,your new cartridge come's w/detailed instruction's,calmly refer to 'em, you may need or may not need a moen cartridge puller,(use a good grip,steady pull,)

I started this when the faucet began leaking around the body when the handle was lifted to use water. I thought this was a regular faucet, but Home Depot was no help in supplying a repair kit. Fortunately I had the original manual and called Pegasus. When I described my model number and symptoms, the lady said the problem was the cartridge, covered under warranty and she would send me one. The cartridge and a new bonnet arrived a couple of days later. That was the end of easy.

Changing the cartridge was right at the limit of my patience and skill, but I won't bore you with all the rabbit trails I explored before final success. First, it's not obvious how the faucet comes apart; the top button is threaded rather than clipped as in most faucets and pliers may mar the finish when you unscrew it. With the button gone, removing the screw holding the handle was no problem, but I had to resort to a small gear puller ($5 at auto parts store) to remove the handle. I used a longer screw (1") as a center point but it was not just a matter of popping it loose; I had to draw the handle the full length before it came off. The cap under the handle is threaded to the brass bonnet and is unscrewed counter-clockwise. I had to apply heat and WD-40 alternately to finally get this to loosen and had actually given up and decided to call the plumber before going back for one more try after it sat for an hour. The finish on the cap was marred during removal, but it is not normally visible. With the cap removed the outside sleeve can be removed by pulling up and rotating; it is not threaded, but is an O-ring fit to the outside of the control body. Now the bonnet can be unscrewed from the inside of the control body. There are two flat spots on the upper threads on the bonnet that allow a crescent wrench to unscrew the bonnet from the body. Again heat and WD-40 alternating was necessary before it finally came out.

There is no need to loosen the faucet from the counter or remove any hoses, although I did. It should remain solidly mounted to provide resistance when unscrewing the cap from the bonnet and the bonnet from the body and prevent the hoses below from twisting.

Putting it back together was easy; I used Teflon tape on the bonnet threads. I decided to test the faucet after I tightened the bonnet on top of the cartridge, before the cap and sleeve were installed. When I opened the faucet, water sprayed out the back of the body, where the diagram shows the spring and diverter. I did not have any parts for this, but the sleeve has O-rings at top and bottom so I decided to install it and the cap (hand tight). After I did, the spray was stopped (by the sleeve), but it still leaked like it had done at the beginning. I assumed the sleeve was working as well as possible and maybe its O-rings were leaking. But I tightened the cap with pliers which pushes down on the sleeve, and the leak stopped. I don't feel fully comfortable because I don't have an understanding of how everything works, but it's operating normally and not leaking.

Pry the hot/cold button off the top of the handle. Make sure the water is turned off below the sink.

Under the button should be screws. Remove the screws. Pry the handle off. Remove the stems by lifting then out.

That should give you access to the washers you need to change.

I soaked the connection between the handle and the valve body in a penetrating oil for several hours and eventually used more force than I hoped to use to remove the handle. Once the handle and end cap (part 09 209) were removed, I could see that the valve assembly (part 46 048) was loose which caused water to leak from the seals (part 46 209) between the valve assembly and faucet body. So I tighted the screws that hold the valve assembly to the faucet body and the leaked stopped.