Parts for the acs-48

It could be from the condenser coils are dirty, bad ventilation,not installed correctly,broken or dirty seals for the gaskets, food storage that is not organized.Or the internal parts are broken.Yes it could be possible that your fridge had quit working and you may need to buy a new one.

48(m+3)-102=6(8m+7)
you open the bracket
48*m + 48*3 - 102 = 6*8m + 6*7
you have
48m + 144 - 102 = 48m + 42
collect the like terms together
48m - 48m = 42 - 144 + 102
you have
0 = -102+102
you have
0=0
you have a final answer of
0

Bad motor.

Open following link for setting Intermatic/Grasslin FM1 timer setting instructions:
To set the 24-hour analog timer, you need to move 4 consecutive tripper pins for each hour of run time.
So for 6 am to 6 pm, 48 trippers pins will be moved outward and 48 inward.
http://waterheatertimer.org/pdf/How-to-set-Intermatic-FM1-timers.pdf

Open following link for Intermatic FM1 series and PB series modular timers with wiring, manuals, model numbers and instructions for setting.
http://waterheatertimer.org/Intermatic-trippers-and-parts.html#PB

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CARRIER REQIRES AT LEAST 10 VOLTS OF DC POWER TO RUN THEMOSTAT FUNCTONS YOU ARE HAVEING A PROBLEM WITH YOUR CONVERTER OR INVERTER IF YOU HAVE A MOTOR HOME NOT PRODUCING ENOUGH DC VOLTS TO POWER THEMOSTAT FUNCTION I NOTICED YOU SAID YOU HAVE TWO ACS ON THE COATCH IF YOU HAVE A 3 PIN SOCKET YOU ONLY HAVE 30 AMP SERVICE KEEPING IN MIND YOUR AC REGUIRES 16 AMPS TO START AND 11 TO RUNS SO THAT WOULD BE
AC X 2 22 AMPS RUNING
WATER HEATER AC POWER 7 TO 8AMPS
REFER 10 AMPS ON ELETRIC MAX
CONVERTER DEPENDS ON BATEERY USE BUT I WOULD SAY 6 AMPS NORMAL USE WITH A GOOD DEEP CYCLE INSTALLED ON COATCH
I SEE OVER 40 AMPS WITH OUT ANY TVS OR MICO OR THE ALL IMPORTANT WIFES HAIR DRIER

The mechanical parts of those models is the same as a BI 95 or BI98. If your looking for the faceplate that would be part number 150. This includes the timer motor,gears,water switch, and hold switch. You can order this thru a parts distributor. Appliance Parts Depot or All Brand Parts should be able to help. If you want to replace the complete icemaker assemly that part number is 402

i would check both but, im sure its the fuel filter. If you want to just take care of another issue that might come up in the later times, i would replace the fuel pump and filter and fuse. this is good preventive maintance.

I had the same problem, turned out to be the alternator... there is a very sensitive element in the control module that prevents the A/C from engaging if it senses low voltage from the alternator. Do a complete check on the battery / alternator system. Unfortunately my problem has returned three years later - I think the Computer module finally died :(

Dismantled notebook thinking compressed air removed component or connection. Nothing. Reassembled most of notebook. Left battery and power disconnected for 6.5 hours, I later plugged only AC power into unit. Fans started spinning. Completed assemble of notebook and installed the battery. Blue lights returned. Problem seems to be the battery. Shorts out something and needs about 6 hours drain out. Works great now without battery, using AC power only. Ordered new battery.....

I recently had a similar problem. In my case the left speaker had no sound. Finally traced the problem to a broken wire inside the control pod plug, which I destroyed by dissecting it. For those who have the experience, or know someone who does, purchase a new plug, which a Mini DIN 8 pin (RS-422 standard). It should be available at any good electronic parts store. Solder new plug on to cable, which requires a fine electronic soldering iron and a fair bit of skill (the wires are very fine).

Look at the plug (from the rear); you will see it comprises a top row of 3 pins equaly spaced; a middle row of 3 pins (there is room for 4 pins but one pin is missing just left of centre); a bottom row of 2 pins. I numbered these as follows:

8 o 7 o 6 o

5 o 4 o 3 o

2 o 1 o

The wire from the controller comprises 8 coloured cores and a bare core. The wiring of the eight cores are as follows:
DIN CORE PCB
pin 8 - brown 8
pin 7 - red 7
pin 6 - orange 6
pin 5 - yellow 5
pin 4 - green 4
pin 3 - blue 3
pin 2 - white 2
pin 1 - black 9
body clamp - bare wire - G

In case your coloured cores vary from mine I have also listed the pin each one goes to on the printed circuit board plug, which will let you identify the colours.