My Paradigm stereo cone on one speaker is slightly separated from the speaker surround. How can I fix it?

Figure out if its a blown coil or damaged cone

1. Blown Coil:

The voice coil is the component, which amplifies the current run through the speakers. If you doubt that the coil is damaged, connect the terminals of the coil to a multimeter, and if there is no resistance detected, it could be because the coil is damaged.

2. Damaged Speaker Cone:

If there are no issues with the coil, the next possibility can be a damaged speaker cone, which can be detected easily. In normal condition, since the subwoofer is built on a suspension system, the cone is easy to move. Look for the following signs to understand that your speaker cone is damaged:

• If you could gently take the cover of the subwoofer off and check for the movement of the cone by gently pushing along the sides
• If the cone is rigid and does not move its indicator

Once you make sure that you have a blown subwoofer, the next step will be deciding on how to replace it. Imagine if your subwoofers can be fixed easily with minimal efforts within a set budget rather than buying a new one.



Then

1. Detaching the speakers:

Use a screwdriver to take the speakers from the place where it is mounted and take off the attached wires. After that, separate the surround and the frame by removing the glue on the frame edge by using a small knife or a sharp object like a tester edge. Be very careful when you do this because the frame edges can be damaged.

2. Separate the voice coil and speaker cone:

Using the same small knife or a tester edge, slowly take out the voice coil from the speaker cone. Cut all the terminal wires and keep the voice coil, speaker cone, and spider separately in place.

3. Fixing the new voice coil:

Clean the trapped dust particles in the voice coil gap carefully by using the compressed air. The voice coil is the piece of wire that is attached to the speaker cone, and that is responsible for amplifying the current, which is passed through the speakers. Remove the old voice coil and fix the new voice coil within the space if the problem is with the coil. Place the spider around the new voice coil, replace the spider and then the speaker cone in the middle. Don't forget to apply enough glue so that the cone doesn't come out. Let it dry for about 24 hours.

4. Fixing the speaker frame:

After it is dry, apply glue on the surround to fix the speaker frame and the cone in the right position. Now we are about to reassemble the components of the sub-woofer.

5. Fixing the wires:

Once all the components are put together in the right place, use a soldering iron to connect the old terminal wires with the new voice coil terminal wires, if the voice coil is replaced. If the new cone has no pre-attached wires, use small wires to the terminal wires, and then create small holes in the cone. Place the wires into the holes and connect them to the voice coil using the soldering iron.Now the connection is also reestablished.

Here's the Owner's manual -> https://docs.google.com/viewer?url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.paradigm.com%2Fdownloads%2FOM-100.pdf.
There are many ways to connect the system depending on your receiver's outputs and the speakers. Usually, the TV L/R output connects to one of the receiver's inputs. The receiver's preamp sub output goes to the powered subwoofer. The receiver's FL/C/FR/SL/SR/RL/RR speaker outputs go to the respective speakers.

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PS-1200 Specifications
Design
Single driver, DCBS™ system with high velocity resistive ports and built-in amplifier Amplifier High current, hybrid output, 130 watts RMS
Amplifier Features Powersaver auto-on/off, soft clipping, thermal protection Low Pass Filter Frequency Variable 50Hz-150Hz Low Frequency Driver 310 mm, carbon-fiber-reinforced composite cone, Apical™ former Low Frequency Extension 23 Hz (DIN) Sub / Sat Phase Alignment 0 - 180 Finishes Black Ash Inputs From A/V receiver/processor or Paradigm X-Series Control Unit or preamp left/right output; From receiver/amplifier speaker terminals or main/satellite speaker terminals Weight 68 lbs. (31 kg) Dimensions HxWxD 19.75" × 17" × 21"
(50cm × 43cm × 53cm)
Specifications are subject to change without notice.

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A few questions to help me help you: (1) Does the woofer cone move freely when you use your hands to move it (or do you feel friction)? (2) have you tried swapping the left speaker for the right to rule out the receiver as a cause?

Your best bet here would be to contact one of these authorized dealers for advice I think.

-Steve


Find Service Center

It sounds like your speaker surround blew away and separated from the speaker cone and/or housing. I'm in the process of fixing one my speakers by replacing the surround.

Generally, when this happens, you'll want to completely replace the speaker surround (the outer ring that allows the speaker coil and cone to travel in and out, usually made of rubber or foam rubber). This isn't necessarily super difficult, it just takes some time, skill and patience, if you want to avoid messing up the speaker and sound from it.


Inspect and repair your existing speaker:


1) Measure:

a) the diameter of your speaker cone (outer edge of the angled piece that goes inward toward the center coil) and the


b) diameter of the speaker housing (the metal "frame" part the speaker surround glues to, which is usually where the speaker mounting holes are located).


Note whether the area on the speaker cone where the surround connects to is flat or angled.


2) Ordering: You'll want to purchase the new speaker surround to match the similar material you've already got, as close as possible to the exact dimensions you measured in either flat or angled for mounting to the speaker cone.


SpeakerWorks.com tends to be a bit more expensive than others than can be found online, and they will normally have what you need. Their speaker surround repair kits normally come with instructions, surround, glue and a little brush. I found hunting around can save 50% or more.


3) Gluing: Get yourself some Aleene's Tacky Glue (online or in craft stores), and make sure you don't use too much or too little, applying in a uniform coat on one surface, then applying gentle pressure to get the surfaces to stick, and allow it to dry completely for 24 hours.


IMPORTANT: This can be tricky, so be patient, or you're buying a new speaker. If you don't feel comfortable, take it to be repaired properly.


Typically, you'll want to start gluing the new speaker surround to the outer portion of the speaker cone, either on the underside or inside, as it was with the prior surround. Make sure it's centered, applying just enough glue with a brush to insure it holds and you can still slide everything around slightly into proper position. Gently move the speaker in and out to make sure nothing is rubbing. Allow this to dry for a full 24 hours, and do NOT attempt to glue the surround to the housing until after the cone glue is completely dry.


Now, it's at least 24 hours later, you can do the same thing by applying an even layer of glue to the surround (or onto the frame) to complete the new surround replacement. Apply light pressure to make sure it's centered, again gently moving the speaker in and out to make sure nothing is rubbing. Allow this to dry for 24 hours, just like before.


I know, impatience makes this difficult, but then you don't want to be doing this all over again by trying to move too quickly. Worse yet, you can end up completely destroying your speaker cone.


The nice thing about that tacky glue is is holds well and allows you to position things for a while before it sets. Just remember to allow the proper drying time, which is always way longer than the dry glue you can see.

Remember to defer to a professional repairman if you do not feel comfortable doing these repairs yourself.

I hope this helps!

If it's just the center dust cover and you have no audible symptoms don't worry about it.

http://www.ehow.com/how_6933063_repair-speaker-dust-cap.html

Purchase new speaker components, or find a repair shop that re-cones speakers.

Boston Acoustics have long been known for having this problem. For about $25 you can purchase new foam surrounds form several places online. I personally purchased mine from simplyspeakers.com or you could spend about $70 and have them refoamed professionally.

See the rear cone, spider and voice coil junction at rest and when cone is manually lifted outward/forward.Then you can easily tell if the spider has separated, as there is little pressure needed to move the cone manually, in and out of the gap. Compare that pressure to your good sub. If there is a notable difference in physical pressure to move either cone, you can rest assured that the spider is not moving or providing resistance to cone manipulation. This is a sure sign of spider/coil joint failure and can easily be sees as you conduct these tests. If that is what you see then repair it or change with new one