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My Paradigm stereo cone on one speaker is slightly separated from the speaker surround. How can I fix it?

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I had a similar problem with JPW speakers. the outer flexible ring became split so I put a thin smear of silicone sealer to make a new ring basically and ot worked very well, but didn't look that good.

Posted on Oct 07, 2009

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How do I hook up the receiver to the subwoofer to the tv


Here's the Owner's manual -> https://docs.google.com/viewer?url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.paradigm.com%2Fdownloads%2FOM-100.pdf.
There are many ways to connect the system depending on your receiver's outputs and the speakers. Usually, the TV L/R output connects to one of the receiver's inputs. The receiver's preamp sub output goes to the powered subwoofer. The receiver's FL/C/FR/SL/SR/RL/RR speaker outputs go to the respective speakers.

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Rather simple and obvious fix but try turning the base down slightly...

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PS-1200 Specifications
Design
Single driver, DCBS™ system with high velocity resistive ports and built-in amplifier Amplifier High current, hybrid output, 130 watts RMS
Amplifier Features Powersaver auto-on/off, soft clipping, thermal protection Low Pass Filter Frequency Variable 50Hz-150Hz Low Frequency Driver 310 mm, carbon-fiber-reinforced composite cone, Apical™ former Low Frequency Extension 23 Hz (DIN) Sub / Sat Phase Alignment 0 - 180 Finishes Black Ash Inputs From A/V receiver/processor or Paradigm X-Series Control Unit or preamp left/right output; From receiver/amplifier speaker terminals or main/satellite speaker terminals Weight 68 lbs. (31 kg) Dimensions HxWxD 19.75" × 17" × 21"
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© 2016 Paradigm Electronics Inc. Conditions of Use Privacy Policy Unauthorized Dealers WARNINGSouth Africa

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I have a pair of Paradigm Monitor 3 V.2 High Def speakers for my front L&R home theater system. On speaker sounds very tinny with no bottom end. On inspection neither the main or tweeter loo


A few questions to help me help you: (1) Does the woofer cone move freely when you use your hands to move it (or do you feel friction)? (2) have you tried swapping the left speaker for the right to rule out the receiver as a cause?

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HOW TO GLUE SPEAKER BACK TO BASKET


It sounds like your speaker surround blew away and separated from the speaker cone and/or housing. I'm in the process of fixing one my speakers by replacing the surround.

Generally, when this happens, you'll want to completely replace the speaker surround (the outer ring that allows the speaker coil and cone to travel in and out, usually made of rubber or foam rubber). This isn't necessarily super difficult, it just takes some time, skill and patience, if you want to avoid messing up the speaker and sound from it.


Inspect and repair your existing speaker:


1) Measure:


a) the diameter of your speaker cone (outer edge of the angled piece that goes inward toward the center coil) and the


b) diameter of the speaker housing (the metal "frame" part the speaker surround glues to, which is usually where the speaker mounting holes are located).


Note
whether the area on the speaker cone where the surround connects to is flat or angled.


2) Ordering: You'll want to purchase the new speaker surround to match the similar material you've already got, as close as possible to the exact dimensions you measured in either flat or angled for mounting to the speaker cone.


SpeakerWorks.com tends to be a bit more expensive than others than can be found online, and they will normally have what you need. Their speaker surround repair kits normally come with instructions, surround, glue and a little brush. I found hunting around can save 50% or more.


3) Gluing: Get yourself some Aleene's Tacky Glue (online or in craft stores), and make sure you don't use too much or too little, applying in a uniform coat on one surface, then applying gentle pressure to get the surfaces to stick, and allow it to dry completely for 24 hours.


IMPORTANT: This can be tricky, so be patient, or you're buying a new speaker. If you don't feel comfortable, take it to be repaired properly.


Typically, you'll want to start gluing the new speaker surround to the outer portion of the speaker cone, either on the underside or inside, as it was with the prior surround. Make sure it's centered, applying just enough glue with a brush to insure it holds and you can still slide everything around slightly into proper position. Gently move the speaker in and out to make sure nothing is rubbing. Allow this to dry for a full 24 hours, and do NOT attempt to glue the surround to the housing until after the cone glue is completely dry.


Now, it's at least 24 hours later, you can do the same thing by applying an even layer of glue to the surround (or onto the frame) to complete the new surround replacement. Apply light pressure to make sure it's centered, again gently moving the speaker in and out to make sure nothing is rubbing. Allow this to dry for 24 hours, just like before.


I know, impatience makes this difficult, but then you don't want to be doing this all over again by trying to move too quickly. Worse yet, you can end up completely destroying your speaker cone.


The nice thing about that tacky glue is is holds well and allows you to position things for a while before it sets. Just remember to allow the proper drying time, which is always way longer than the dry glue you can see.


Remember to defer to a professional repairman if you do not feel comfortable doing these repairs yourself.

I hope this helps!

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1 Answer

Foam surrounds are turning to dust.


Purchase new speaker components, or find a repair shop that re-cones speakers.

Dec 04, 2010 | Paradigm Titan Speaker

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Speaker cone separation


Boston Acoustics have long been known for having this problem. For about $25 you can purchase new foam surrounds form several places online. I personally purchased mine from simplyspeakers.com or you could spend about $70 and have them refoamed professionally.

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Rattle Problem w/ subwoofer


See the rear cone, spider and voice coil junction at rest and when cone is manually lifted outward/forward.Then you can easily tell if the spider has separated, as there is little pressure needed to move the cone manually, in and out of the gap. Compare that pressure to your good sub. If there is a notable difference in physical pressure to move either cone, you can rest assured that the spider is not moving or providing resistance to cone manipulation. This is a sure sign of spider/coil joint failure and can easily be sees as you conduct these tests. If that is what you see then repair it or change with new one

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