Old Theben timer for Gas ducted heating. Think pre-1990 as made in West Germany.Model SYN 168a. can't turn heating on?

Generally theben timers are wired same as illustrations shown on following pages
Wiring varies slightly by exact model number.
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-wire-DTD-1440-timer.html
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-program-Hagar-timer.html
http://waterheatertimer.org/Din-rail-timers-and-manuals.html
Most these timers are rated 15 amp.
Safe maximum :: 15 amp x 80% = 12 amp
230V x 12 amp = 2760 watt
For best long-term result, use timer to turn on a contactor (relay) and let the contactor handle switching heavy amp load
Fuse-protect the timer by adding inline fuse to hot wire going to timer.
Gene

If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gene_9f0ef4df2f9897e7

Yes normally a fuse which they replace for it to heat again generally goes when over heated especially if not in a air flow area will cost about $100 - $120 to fix local electrian

Copy following link for analog 24-hour timer:
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-set-timers.html

Is this new timer, or older timer with worn-out trippers?

Or is this the theben digital timer.
Add a comment and describe timer in detail for more possible assistance

If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gene_9f0ef4df2f9897e7

I have theben timer sul181h. How to set it for lighting automatically at 6p.m. and stopping at 9p.m.?

M460 means nothing as far as failures, it is a designation of a style of timer from Midwest timers. If you had no heat it could be the heating element, a safety limit, a control problem like a burnt timer contact, or an electrical problem. A heating coil is used to warm the clothes as they get tossed gently inside the drum. A blower mounted on the motor pulls air through the heating element into the drum and out the exhaust. The element gets old and briitle with use and eventually needs replacement. That is what you check first. On gas dryers vibration and age will cause the igniter to crumble and fail. If it turns out the element is fine then one of the safety's might be blown. These safety's are set to a certain temperature
for the dryer to operate safely. The drum temp control for cotton is 160f. A limit on the heater housing is 250f. If it fails another smaller limit is mounted nearby that blows at 300f. If that temp exceeds 350f a duct fuse mounted on the blower housing opens and kills most dryers. On gas dryers the duct fuse will kill the gas assembly but the dryer will still run. If all of those safetys are good the timer could be the problem. The timer has a terminal on it that runs down to the heating element. If you suspect it is bad you can check it with a meter. That leg of the timer should have continuity with other terminals on the timer at different spots on the timer. Turning the timer and checking for continuity will give a clue. If you cannot get continuity with any other terminal on the timer at any position on the dial then you have a burned contact in the timer. If that turns out to be good, you would need to inspect the electrical outlet for proper power to the machine. On American models the motor runs on 120 volts but the heating element must have 240 volts. If you have more questions just post a comment. Good luck on repairing your machine. I have some repair photos: HERE



If you need further help, reach me via phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/dan_73bbd84fe1d95b61

It could be the heating element, a safety limit, a control problem, or an electrical problem. A heating coil is used to warm the clothes as they get tossed gently inside the drum. A blower mounted on the motor pulls air through the heating element into the drum and out the exhaust. The element gets old and briitle with use and eventually needs replacement. That is what you check first. On gas dryers vibration and age will cause the igniter to crumble and fail. If it turns out the element is fine then one of the safety's might be blown. These safety's are set to a certain temperature
for the dryer to operate safely. The drum temp control for cotton is 160f. A limit on the heater housing is 250f. If it fails another smaller limit is mounted nearby that blows at 300f. If that temp exceeds 350f a duct fuse mounted on the blower housing opens and kills most dryers. On gas dryers the duct fuse will kill the gas assembly but the dryer will still run. If all of those safetys are good the timer could be the problem. The timer has a terminal on it that runs down to the heating element. If you suspect it is bad you can check it with a meter. That leg of the timer should have continuity with other terminals on the timer at different spots on the timer. Turning the timer and checking for continuity will give a clue. If you cannot get continuity with any other terminal on the timer at any position on the dial then you have a burned contact in the timer. If that turns out to be good, you would need to inspect the electrical outlet for proper power to the machine. On American models the motor runs on 120 volts but the heating element must have 240 volts. If you have more questions just post a comment. Good luck on repairing your machine. I have some repair photos: HERE

If you need further help, reach me via phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/dan_73bbd84fe1d95b61

It could be the heating element, a safety limit, a control problem, or an electrical problem. A heating coil is used to warm the clothes as they get tossed gently inside the drum. A blower mounted on the motor pulls air through the heating element into the drum and out the exhaust. The element gets old and briitle with use and eventually needs replacement. That is what you check first. On gas dryers vibration and age will cause the igniter to crumble and fail. If it turns out the element is fine then one of the safety's might be blown. These safety's are set to a certain temperature
for the dryer to operate safely. The drum temp control for cotton is 160f. A limit on the heater housing is 250f. If it fails another smaller limit is mounted nearby that blows at 300f. If that temp exceeds 350f a duct fuse mounted on the blower housing opens and kills most dryers. On gas dryers the duct fuse will kill the gas assembly but the dryer will still run. If all of those safetys are good the timer could be the problem. The timer has a terminal on it that runs down to the heating element. If you suspect it is bad you can check it with a meter. That leg of the timer should have continuity with other terminals on the timer at different spots on the timer. Turning the timer and checking for continuity will give a clue. If you cannot get continuity with any other terminal on the timer at any position on the dial then you have a burned contact in the timer. If that turns out to be good, you would need to inspect the electrical outlet for proper power to the machine. On American models the motor runs on 120 volts but the heating element must have 240 volts. If you have more questions just post a comment. Good luck on repairing your machine. I have some repair photos: HERE

If you need further help, reach me via phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/dan_73bbd84fe1d95b61

It could be the heating element, a safety limit, a control problem, or an electrical problem. A heating coil is used to warm the clothes as they get tossed gently inside the drum. A blower mounted on the motor pulls air through the heating element into the drum and out the exhaust. The element gets old and briitle with use and eventually needs replacement. That is what you check first. On gas dryers vibration and age will cause the igniter to crumble and fail. If it turns out the element is fine then one of the safety's might be blown. These safety's are set to a certain temperature
for the dryer to operate safely. The drum temp control for cotton is 160f. A limit on the heater housing is 250f. If it fails another smaller limit is mounted nearby that blows at 300f. If that temp exceeds 350f a duct fuse mounted on the blower housing opens and kills most dryers. On gas dryers the duct fuse will kill the gas assembly but the dryer will still run. If all of those safetys are good the timer could be the problem. The timer has a terminal on it that runs down to the heating element. If you suspect it is bad you can check it with a meter. That leg of the timer should have continuity with other terminals on the timer at different spots on the timer. Turning the timer and checking for continuity will give a clue. If you cannot get continuity with any other terminal on the timer at any position on the dial then you have a burned contact in the timer. If that turns out to be good, you would need to inspect the electrical outlet for proper power to the machine. On American models the motor runs on 120 volts but the heating element must have 240 volts. If you have more questions just post a comment. Good luck on repairing your machine. I have some repair photos: HERE
Remove and clean the venting to outside then get the rear cover off and check for continuity to the heater element and safetys.

If you need further help, reach me via phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/dan_73bbd84fe1d95b61

Go to repair clinic.com. Typed in your model number and found the heating element. Repair Clinic part number is 2438. Third item down in their parts list.

try to get the manual for the dryer you got and locate the moisture sensor if this sensor is bad what happen is that the automatic timer thinks that the clothes still wet and continues to dry once the sensor detects no moisture then it shut off the dryer normally is located behind the dryer on the exit line of the air duct and tested for conductivity and see if is good or not