When starting engine just revs as 2 nd butterfliy is pulled open . when you pull the wieght down and hold it down then idles fine . If you leave it revs up again,

The idle control switch at the back of the carb is either dead or not fully conected. Wire from idle valve to ignition positive and carb grounded.

Sounds like the catalytic converter or muffler maybe getting plugged up and the computer is putting the truck in limp home mode. Did you put a scanner on the truck. You might try to remove the 02 sensor ahead of the cat and see if it runs a little better it will not be perfect but should stay running if so do an exhaust check. When the cat or muffler gets plugged it puts back pressure on the engine and won't allow the fuel to be pulled into the engine properly.

Clutch plate and pressure plate seem to be too weak to pull the car. Or one of the CV joints is detached from the gear box. To test the clutch plate, park the car on flat surface. Pull the hand brake up, start the car, depress the foot brake pedal, depress the clutch pedal, put the car in 1st gear, press the gas pedal and leave the clutch pedal at once, while keeping the brake pedal depressed.
Follow one of the two following statements:
1. Engine does not shut down and remain start. (Clutch plate, pressure plate and clutch bearing defective - Replace all as a set)
2. Engine shuts down. (Clutch system is OK and does not require any repair).

Engine stalls or RPM fluctuates at idle up and down or dies near idle.

This problem is commonly caused by a dirty automatic idle speed control valve and throttle valve but always run a OBD2 fault code as well as the cleaning procedure. Buy a can of throttle valve cleaner (do not use carburetor spray cleaner!) from NAPA or Carquest (made by CRC chemicals) and spray it into the air intake while the engine is running, use up about 1/2 the can, engine will try to stall hold the speed up, shut it down and let it soak for 30 minutes, restart and blow out the remaining fluid, shut it down and disconnect the negative battery cable for 5 Min's to reset the base idle control

start procedure is to hold accelerator half down, turn key, wait for injector light to go out, then hold down clutch pedal and start. do not pump the gas. just hold it 1/2 down. when car starts, release gas and then rev it up until the alternator light goes out.

1) Have a look at the starter relay. Pull it out and ease the cover off and then check out the state of the solder joints. If any are dry and or there are signs of annular cracking around any of the power pins simply reheat with soldering iron to make good. 2) Check out your idle air control valve. Clean the throttle body interior and passageways to and from the IAC. Check that the valve is free to open and that it opens when at idle. 3) Check out your fuel pressure regulator (FPR). It sits on the end of your fuel rail. When the car is idling pull the vacuum line from it. The engine revs should pick up for a few seconds before running roughly. If you do not get this response apply vacuum to the FPR and this should cause the engine revs to drop. If by applying suction you pull fuel throught he vacuum port then the FPR needs changing 4) Lastly check all vacuum lines. Spray suspect areas with WD40 and if there is a leak there the engine will jump slightly in revs.

i think the dist is adjable try advanceing it some times the after market caps are a little diffront

sounds like the idle speed sensor,if your rpm's are idling up and down

is the car is idling o.k between 750-850 rpm, before you pull away? if it isn't then check your plugs injectors idle control. if it is but the car move's slowly away and you are using high revs it could be a slipping clutch or if automatic transmission worn bands or torq converter. also check for breaks binding.

need more info dont you no were it is how to do it? hope u have your radio code handy to it will need a code once the battery has been replaced