A 40 year old judgement against me keep me from getting my license back

no year car told , no engine told of 2, Mark1.
lots of causes, ,top 2 , bad spark and 2nd loss of fuel pump pressure
scan it yet?
2010 to 2016 (mark 1 model )
160hp 2.0 liter Nu engine and a 170hp 2.4 liter Theta engine
well it is 6 to 12 years old but no year told ,why?
cranks fast but does not start or stalls driving.
when cool it does start.
so was it overheating?
it needs service any car ignored that long needs service..
so get some

Sounds like wheel balance, check front wheels for loss of weights outter and inner rim, alloy wheels have sticky weights steel rims have clamp on weights either can be lost....say if you clip the kerb/sidewalk or just through centrifugal force. A garage will check wheel balance and attach weights if needed.

Motorcraft Batteries?

In my Lincoln L/S, the first one lasted 3 1/2 years & was done under warranty

Second one lasted 5 years

Now that one failed two weeks ago at 20 months

In my case the battery is in the trunk & you can't find a battery with
a vent for that car & ford batteries are on odd size, just for their
design or group size,go figure

The Motorcraft Max is free for 3 years & pro rated for 100 months,
so not a bad deal.

IF you have a big enough battery tray & a basic looking battery,
try the NAPA Legend Batt 8465 750 CCA 65 BCI (group size)

They are from East Penn MFG in Penn & plants in other states & their own brand is DEKA in the private parts stores

What I like is that there are no caps on top & no leaking, just like
the old AC Delco I used for 40 years & got 7 to 9 years out of them

I have had a Napa in my 30 year old blazer for two year so far

The question,well I think it is part battery & part the load the electronics puts on the batteries

When I open the trunk & have only the trunk light on & with a
new or old battery, I only get 12.3 volts

I get the same thing on my scan tool data when I turn off the car
& then put the key on,yet all data is good KOEO or Engine Running.

Hi Ryan, It would seem as if there is a build up of chemical deposits which have reacted inside the hose. Gently keep moving it back and forth until the chemical seal breaks and you are able to remove it. Happy new year and Regards John

If you do a youtube search for backyard mechanic and 2001 hyundai elantra axle, you will get an excellent (if not a bit back woods) step-by-step instruction on replacing the drive axle, including some very nice tips specific to the Elantra along the way. Then, when you get the drive axle out of the way, you will see the seal right there. You can pry the old one out with a screwdriver (be VERY careful not to damage the metal walls of the transmission... only pry against the rubber of the old seal) and then install the new seal. I've found a board works well to install the new seal... place the seal against the transmission, place one end of the board over the seal and tap it with a hammer. Rotate the board and tap again. Increase the force of the hammer and keep rotating until you get it nicely in place. The more contact with the seal (ie wider board) the better. Then follow his instructions to reassemble and you're done! Oh, and have a good close look at the rubber boots on the axle while you're at it... or you may be back in replacing the axles in no time. Good luck!

This is a pretty common problem on GM vehicles. Theres a pretty good write up on this link. http://vatspasslockpasskeysecurityhelp.yolasite.com/ I've been dealing in these security systems for years and the best way to "fix" them, is to bypass them. If you fix one part, another part will go. It gets expensive and annoying. Especially on a 92, im sure you're done trying to throw money in that vehicle. You can fix this yourself, ive done dozens of these bypasses. Good luck

Can you get back with more details on vehicle, Make, Model, Year , Mileage, engine? That will make it easier to get an answer. Thanks.

If you are planning on recharging your system, you are required to use R134a. It's not factory freon but unless you plan on taking it into the shop, you won't be able to get it. You must posess a license to deal with the other stuff and quite honestly it is against the law to discharge the freon that is currently in your vehicle. (Not saying that it can't be done) When you go to do your re-charge, you will more than likely need a can of cooling system oil and most definately a pressure gauge. All things necessary to do an 'at home' re-charge can be found at your nearest auto store like Advance Auto, Auto-Zone, Napa, Origional Equipment etc.

Btw, I’m available to help over the phone in case u need at https://www.6ya.com/expert/matthew_d24b835e574ef6ca

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I would recommend that you change your oil every 3,000 mile or 3 months which ever come first. This just help you keep a cleaner engine and keeps oil at Peak performance and provide excellent protection against sludge which developes with lack of oil change. Once a year seems too long for an oil change. However between oil changes you can add oil if needed. Good luck and thanks for using FIX YA