Suddenly by left chennai goes comes and goes once I connected to equalizer what's the problem . One I removed the equalizer connection the left chennai is working just fine

bad connection at the cluster board, remove and clean the connections and the plug. scrape the connections and clean of the green res on the connections. can be white awell. also check the cluster for water ingress as this will not help the electrics. will corrode the wiring and do damaged, turns wiring black

Look for how to "change bulbs" probably in the User's manual.
No manual? try: manualslib.com
Once you have access to the change bulb area, usually on the back side of the taillight assembly, you should see what looks like a printed circuit "film". There should be a single wire (not part of the light connection wires). That single wire or a broken off connection to it is the ground. Follow the wire to a connection point on the body metal attached by a sheet metal screw, or equivalent. The ground wire is usually not more than 12". If the wire is missing, a substitute is needed. You may need to look at the other side to see how it is connected.

Check this procedure to understand it... REMOVAL & INSTALLATION
(see Figures 1, 2, 3 and 4)

1. Raise and support the front of the vehicle safely using jackstands.

The parking brake equalizer threads will often rust in service making adjustment or removal difficult. If necessary, spray a penetrating lubricant on the nut and equalizer threads, then allow time for the lubricant to work.

1. Under the left-center of the vehicle, loosen the nut on the cable equalizer assembly.
   
2. Separate the front cable from the equalizer.

Fig. 1: On this truck, the equalizer is just behind and to the side of the transfer case

Fig. 2: Common front brake cable mounting (click image for zoom)

Fig. 3: To loosen, hold the adjuster rod from turning while you turn the nut using a box wrench

Fig. 4: The cable is usually attached to the lever using a button retainer

1. If applicable, remove the front-cable retaining bolts and clips.
   
2. Bend or squeeze the frame retainer fingers and release the cable from the frame.

On some models, it may be necessary to remove the dash trim panels to gain access to the brake pedal.

1. If necessary for access, remove the lower trim panel from the left side of the dash.
   
2. Release the cowl retainer and grommet, then disconnect the front cable from the parking pedal assembly.
   
3. Attach a length of wire to the cable, then carefully pull it through the cowl leaving the wire in place for installation purposes. Remove the cable from the vehicle.

To install:

1. Use the wire left in the cowl opening to pull the cable into position.
   
2. Seat the retainer and grommet to the cowl, making sure the retaining fingers are completely through the hole.
   
3. Attach the cable to the lever, then if removed for access, install the lower trim panel.
   
4. Install the cable retainer to the frame, then if applicable, secure any retaining clips.
   
5. Connect the cable to the equalizer, then properly adjust the parking brake. For details, please refer to the procedure located later in this section.
   
6. Remove the jackstands and carefully lower the vehicle.

Hope helps.

Sounds like your O2 sensor is malfunctioning. When the check engine light comes on, the computer goes into a preset mode bypassing the O2 sensor and that's why it suddenly runs good. Have the O2 sensor checked. You can also have the trouble codes read and they should point you in the same direction.

you may need to change your signal/cruise control device. You may try an auto recycling center.
Remove the positive wire from the battery
remove screws at the back of the airbags. Don't worry, you disable them when you remove power,
With a socket 1/2in drive and maybe an 18 or 20 remove steering wheel
Once the wheel is remove you should see your signal/cruise device.
You could go to your local auto store and buy a book or online www.hayes.com and it will help with the procedure

This sounds like a loose connection to the motor itself. My truck has been doing that lately and I finally figured out the problem only when I starting digging under the dash while the heater was going.

When you turn left or right, the steering column must be tugging on the wiring, and when you hit a bump it's just enough to jar the connection loose. Check where the plug goes directly into the motor...most likely it's under the dash on the passenger side, or on the firewall on the same side, but in the engine compartment. It could also be that your steering column has worn the coating off of the wire and it is shorting out every once in awhile when the exposed wire hits metal.

With the battery charged, remove the negative battery cable and place a test light between the battery post and the cable and see if it lights up. If it doesn't, then you will need to get an amp meter and place it inline. Once connected you should see the light come on (or the current draw on the meter). Then, you can start pulling fuses one at a time until the light goes out, or the current draw drops down. (Note - there is usually some current draw to keep the clock & other computer settings). Once you know which circuit is the problem, get a wiring diagram and do the same thing. only this time you'll be unplugging the parts connected to the circuit. Same thing applies, when you see the light go out (or current drop down) you know you have the culprit. Hope this helps

On most vehicles, the left and right parking brake cables come together and are attached to a lever linkage called an "equalizer" yoke under the vehicle. The equalizer yoke balances, or equalizes, the amount of force that is applied to both cables when the parking brake is applied. The equalizer linkage, in turn, is connected to a single cable that runs to the parking brake lever or pedal. An adjustment screw may be located on the front cable where it connects to the equalizer, or where the cable attaches to the parking brake lever.The point is to tighten the cable. Look for an adjustment screw.

you have to undo the belt by lifting on the tensioner which located on the below the power steering pump you may have to remove the motor mount bolts (make sure you suport the motor use a piece of wood so you dont crack oil pan) once you remove the belt look behind the alternator, mine had a hood connected to the cowl that comes of easy unhook the two wires (one is a plug with alittle clip the other is on a bolt held on by the nut) find the bolt on the alternator towards the front of the car remove that bolt and the brace it goes into there is another little black brace that comes off the back and goes to the manifold the next bolt is towards the back it is a long bolt that goes all the way though this one is a pain to remove and put back once you have them out is should come out i had to wiggle mine some then just do it backwards to reinstall

Im having a Nissan March (K11-2001-Auto,EPS,ABS) when Im driving in suddenly "PS" red bulb comes and steering gets harder and then it goes off and ABS lights comes on, blinking PS & ABS alternatively and engine stops. Seems like a loose connection some where ..this happens only when Im driving in broken roads and turning.

Pls. tell me where to check and what can be the fault.
Thank you.
deepal kirindage