Checked fuse, it's good. Bulbs are good. Car sat on paved driveway for a couple years. New battery. Changed column lever/ directional switch. Still no headlights. Cannot locate headlamp relay
There is no relay for the headlamps on your Taurus . The lamps have constant B+ voltage , the fuses supply B+ right to the headlamps . The Voltage then travels to the dimmer an flash to pass switch on the steering column , then to the headlamp switch . When you turn on the headlamps the B+ voltage then goes to ground through the headlamp switch ! Pull the headlamp switch an test for B+ voltage on the red with yellow stripe wire . If you do your switch is bad . Go to www.bbbind.com/ for free wiring diagrams , then go to youtube an check out videos on headlamp not working trouble shooting ! From practical experience I'd say there is a problem with the headlamp switch , but don't guess test !
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Testimonial: "Thanks for your insight Jeff, still testing before purchase."
Should I try testing continuity on the switch somehow before I try to find a replacement? There was .02 V dc showing on tester to red wire w yellow stripe. Ignition not on, headlamp switch on, bell ringing...
Plus, were you saying IF I DO "have voltage?" THE SWITCH IS BAD. Because I barely had any voltage..
if you don't have 12 volts on that red/yellow wire , you have a problem else where in the circuit, not the switch ! Check for battery voltage at the red / black wire going to the dimmer switch . Try to isolate the problem ,find a point where you see B+ voltage !
Results of testing, and I think you may agree that it IS the headlamp switch. Pics incl. Tested SWITCH for continuity, with it turned to headlamps- 0 on black, 0 on red/yel, cont. on grey.
Tested harness clip for voltage- 0v on Blk, 12.3v on rd/y, 12.2v on Grey
Brown being ground I'm pretty sure.
No ,black with yellow stripe is ground ! The brown wire is park lights , if you jump red/yellow to the brown the park lamps will light . If you have b+ voltage on the red/yellow wire an zero on the black/with yellow , I would say it is the switch ! Turn the switch on to head lights ,with switch connector disconnected ,touch your meter leads to the one the red/yellow wire goes to an the other lead to the pin the black / yellow wire goes to . If high resistance or OL the switch is bad !
To test switch you do know it has to be on the ohm's part of the meter ,not volts ?
I was on continuity, and that told the story on the switch! I have since put in another switch that I checked out before walking out, installed and everything is fine! Thanks Jeff!
How do I change my testimonial to "fantastic help with my Ford" ?
Your welcome , glade I could help ! Did you learn something about electrical trouble shooting ? If you would like to learn more ,go to autoshop101.com . great wealth of basic automotive electrical circuit types an testing .
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Last year, I had an issue with my headlights and high beams not working. I took my vehicle into an auto shop to be repaired and it turned out that it was a wiring issue. Have you had any recent wiring jobs on your vehicle? If so, then you should get your lights rewired. Comprehensive Auto Repair in Anchorage AK
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I pulled the headlamp switch, shouldn't I check it for continuity between positions to make sure it IS the switch before I go look for a replacement? I got .02 volts on that wire when it was plugged in and switched to ON
you get .02 volts on which wire ,the power side or ground side of the switch ? You can test for continuity ,sure . 0.2 volts on the ground side would be great voltage drop. With the lights on an zero voltage on the ground side would indicate a bad switch . Now if your seeing 0.2 volts on the power side of the switch you have a problem up circuit , dimmer switch ! I hope I'm making sense here . I could show you better then writing about it !
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