Icons i have 3 little boxes on my phone 2black and 1green but some times i get it with 2 black boxes and 1 red box what dose that mean......please help.

its a different one then, unless you know how to wire it in so it works you got the wrong one

If you want to control both the light and the fan using 3-ways, then just wire 2 sets of the 3-way circuits. For this you need two sets of 3-wire between the switches, and one 3-wire cable from the switch location to the fan/light box.

At box #1 (a 2 gang box), you will run a power cable (marked cable #1) into it. From there you run 2 sets of 3-wire cables (identified as cable #2 & cable #3) to the other switch location, which will also be a 2-gang box (box #2).

Also from box #1, you will run a 3-wire cable (cable #4) to the fan/light box (box #3).

Hook up is as follows:

Box #3: connect black of cable #4 to black (fan), connect red of cable #4 to blue (light), connect white of cable #4 to white (fan/light), and connect the bare to the green.

Box #2: Connect white of cable #2 to identified terminal on 1st 3-way switch (#3). Connect red & black of cable #2 to the remaining screws of 3-way switch #3. Next connect white of cable #3 to identified terminal of 2nd 3-way switch (#4), and connect black and red to remaining screws. Tie all grounds together and terminate to both switches.

At box #1, connect black from cable #1 to whites in cables #2 & #3, using a wirenut. Connect white in cable #1 to white in cable #4. Connect black and red in cable #2 to 3rd 3-way switch (#1) and connect black and red in cable #3 to 4th 3-way switch (#2). Connect black in cable #4 to identified terminal of 3-way switch #1, and connect red in cable #4 to identified terminal on 3-way switch #2. Tie all grounds together and to the switches

The BOX is a GE splicer - with 6 wires - 2 grey power wires, then the red, blue, black, and white from the fan motor. I have the same problem and cannot find another GE SPLICER 3 SPEED SWITCH for the fan. All switches that I have tried have 4 connections.........so a WIRING DIAGRAM would be GREAT!

Can anyone offer any help? I have tried every electrical store in the area!

Thanks

I wish we had more information to go on here.

1) You have 2 cables to to the Heat-Vent-Light
One cable is 12-3 and 1 cable is 12-3

2) That's where it's gets fuzzy.
What color wires are on HentVentLight?
Is power at the ceiling box or at the wall box?
What other wires are inside the wall box?
What kind of switch are you installing?

3) With that number of wires, it sounds like power is at ceiling box.
Power would arrive at ceiling box on one cable that has a Hot-black and Neutral-white wire.

4) Start at wall box:
Let's suppose you are installing a wall device that has 3 individual switches, with one switch for each HentVentLight.
The Hot wire from ceiling box would drop down into wall box on a black wire, and this wire connects to brass screw on switch.
Wire going to heater connects to one of the silver screws.
Wire to fan to another silver screw
Wire to light to another silver screw.

5) Work at ceiling box:
Let's suppose your HentVentLight has 4 wires: Black for light, Red for fan, Blue for heater, and White Neutral.
The white neutral connects to Neutral wire as described in #3.
Black, Red and Blue connect to each of the wires that come up from switch.

Add a comment for more free help, and fill in the missing information.

Also take advantage of fixya phone service.
For a price, expert speaks with you over phone while you work on timer or any do-it-yourself project.
Fixya is always less expensive than a service call.

One caveat of most In-Wall electronic switches/timers is that the device _must_ be installed at the switch box that has the power, in your case switch #1. In order to install it at switch #2, in your case, you need an extra wire between the switches (to carry the HOT wire), and unfortunately, the bare ground(ing) wire is not permitted to be used to carry current per National Electric Code (NEC).

In your case the wiring for the ST01 is as follows:

Switch box #1: Connect the incoming White wire to the White wire in the 3-wire cable that goes to switch box #2. Connect the incoming (Black) HOT wire to the Black wire on the switch/timer. Connect the Red wire in the 3-wire cable to the Red wire on the switch/timer. Connect the Black wire in the 3-wire cable to the blue wire on the switch/timer. Connect the green wire on the switch/timer to the 2 bare ground(ing) wires. If you have a metal box this connection should also have a pigtail that connects to the box with a green ground screw.

Switch box #2: Remove all of the existing wires from the 3-way switch. The three-way switch will have 2 screws the same color (usually black) and 1 screw (usually brass). For this scenario, one of the black screws will _not_ be used.

Connect the Black wire in the 3-wire cable coming from switch #1, the Black wire going to the lights, and a short Black pigtail together under one wirenut. The pigtail is then connected to the brass screw on the 3-way switch. The Red wire in the 3-wire cable coming from switch #1 is connected to one of the 2 black screws on the 3-way switch (pick one).

In effect you are installing a single switch at switch box #2. In fact, you can use a regular single pole switch if you want too.

To finish, connect the White wire in the 3-wire cable coming from switch #1 to the White wire going to the lights.

Grounding is the same as switch #1 except you'll need a pigtail to connect to the green screw on the 3-way switch.

That's it. You may want to check the battery compartment in the switch/timer, as sometimes they put in a pullout plastic tab to keep it from being energized until needed.

Now, the E1210 is a different animal, and can only be used to replace a single pole switch. You could use it by basically passing the power through to switch box #2 from switch box #1 and then cover switch box #1 with a blank plate. The ST01 could be used that way too, in which case the black on the device connects to the hot, the blue to the lights, and the red on the device is not used, nor will the Red wire in the 3-wire cable between the switch boxes be used.

No you do not. You have a 220 system. What you do to hook it up is. In the box in the wall you should have 3 wires. 2 black and one white. Then on the cooktop you have the 3 wires 1 black, 1 red, and 1 white. You take the black from the cooktop to the black in the wall box. Take the red to the other black in the wall box. then take the whites and put them together. Now if you have a green or bare wire that is the ground. Just hook that to the wall box.

If you have any questions please ask.

Hi, I am not completely Sure what you mean, but will explain the connections. First, from your breaker box if you are trying to wire a 3-pole cord and plug to the breaker, you will be dealing with 3 wires, more then likely, Red -Hot, black-Hot, and white Neutral. If you have a 30amp 2-pole breaker, make sure it is off and red goes to one leg of the breaker, black to the other, and white to the ground or neutral buss bar. Each leg is 120 volts,=240. I am trying to cover all of the bases here for you. The plug it self has 2 brass colored connections for the 2 hot and 1- silver for the white. Maybe a ground, but doubtful. I hope this has given you some direction to go by. If you need more help or not sure, please leave a message for me so we can get this right for you. Let me know one way or another. Good Luck,
Shastalaker7

http://www.boats.net/parts/search/Yamaha/Motorcycle/1971/DT1E/parts.html

The above site has full diagrams for the whole bike (1971 DT1E), diagr. below from site shows elec. components, hope it assists you.

Good Day
By going over the diagram what you have side is that these 6 wires go to ground on right side of engine almost side by side. Now are the sires together? blk/red, blk/grn, blk ? give this a try.
please let me know how you make out

Cheers