Error code 20 and 30 come up, once I turn the machine off and on the cycle starts again.
SOURCE: Dishwasher LD-14AW2, stopped working mid cycle
Since water doesn't drain out ,it could be a clogged in the drain line. Often the problem is at the point where the drain line attaches to the garbage disposer or household drain line. You should remove this line and clear it form any debris in the hose or the hose connection. Be sure to reattach the hose before starting the dishwasher again. Good luck!
SOURCE: Diplomat intergrated dishwasher error code FA
FA is a problem with the tubidity sensor. By holding down the power button, it stops, but just repeats everytime you try a new wash cycle. So keep doing it and you can atleast use it. If you want to go one step further and find a permanent solution try feeling around in the sump (where the filter slots in) being careful for any broken glass. Other than that it will probably be a strip-down job to examine the internal hoses and the pump; not a DIY job to be honest.
SOURCE: Kenmore Ultra Wash Dishwasher LIghts are blinking....
I just read this for the same problem: push sanitize, then heat and dry, sanitize, heat and dry, sanitize, heat and dry, cancel, then open and close the door. It worked. The dishwasher is running correctly even as I type this.
SOURCE: siemens hydrosensor dishwasher SE25A091GB/22
Paul
If you are still trying to sort out this issue try the following.
From what you say then it is most likely the aqua sensor on the side of the dishwasher. The gurgling sounds that you hear are likely the drain pump running and the un-drainable water sloshing in the sump.
Verify that there is actually water going to the dishwasher( Basic step but often overlooked)
Next the inlet valve will have to be checked. This is the part where the water line from the house connects to the dishwasher, under the toe/kick panel. Remove power from the dishwasher. Disconnect the dishwasher electrical connections (2 wires) to the inlet valve and connect it (carefully to 110 V power) using a jumper wire. With 110V power the valve should open and water will flow into the dishwasher, if not then the fault is in the inlet valve.
If this checks fine then the fault is likely in the aqua sensor...
On the outer left side (viewed from front) there is a panel, Behind this panel there is a small clear(of light blue) plastic mechanism with hoses and wires attached( There is usually a yellow disk at the top about 6cm in diameter) this is a float and sensor assembly there is tells the control the water level and works as an emergency drain if there is an issue. There will be a red stick protruding downward to the base and a Styrofoam float on which the stick rests. This is a pan overflow sensor if the stick is too high the unit will go into drain and cut off the fill valve power. The yellow disk is a diaphragm which senses water height. This unit can become stuck with wear and hard water.
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Note: there are no screws either side of the dishwasher, do you need to remove the base plate to access the screws to open the bottom?
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